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About richierich

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  • Bike
    2010 Evo 290

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  • Location
    South East Wales
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  1. I purchased a used 06 Repsol 4RT to see how I got on with a 4 stroke and am now a complete convert. Going through the various spares and bits in bags that came with the bike recently, I found 2 used sleeves with flanges that appear to have been previously fitted somewhere in the exhast system; according to the wonderfully concise manual, one of the sleeves looks like it fits inside the header pipe where it bolts onto the cylinder head and the other sleeve looks like it fits in the silencer socket which slips over the other end of the header pipe. Are these items removed for any reason? I do know that the diffuser on the back end of the silencer does make a difference to the noise if removed but probably does not affect performance but what about these other 2 items?
  2. Barry at AB Motorcycles, Merthyr, will get it rebuilt for you.
  3. That is the answer I was hoping for, jrsunt. Many thanks. Still a rare commodity to find on the second hand market, though, I believe.
  4. I have just sheared one side of the bottom clamp around the right hand fork. It already had a hair line crack for the last 14 months and I knew it would probably fail in the near future and at the most inconvenient time. Can anyone tell me if a 315 clamp would fit from a later model with the rainbow Showa forks? The 4rt Showa forks are 39mm diameter bu I am not sure if those fitted to the 315 (2001 - 2005) are compatible. Alternatively, I know there are various after market top clamps available but could any one recommend someone that makes top and bottom clamps as a pair? Many thanks in anticipation of getting some valuable info.
  5. Like HRMAD, I am also in Muddy Wales and have recently been running 10:44. It certainly does make 2nd gear my primary gear but 1st has become pretty much redundant. I like 1st gear. I miss it a lot and want it back in my life. I also found that on a long, very steep hill climb section 3rd gear seemed to run out of speed and I dare not kick up to 4th as I knew it would stop pulling. The bike had 10:43 when I got it last year; 1st was my primary gear then but, now I'm used to a 4 stroke, I think I could liven bottom gear up a bit if I run 10:41/42 without compromising 2nd and 3rd too much? if so, I will buy new C&S with a spare 44T for winter trials. I did read the original thread up till about paragraph 3 but my attention span ran out (much like 3rd gear at 10:44!!), cos it reminded me too much of double maths class back in school!!
  6. Hi all privileged 4RT owners! :0) I have an 06 4RT (Repsol) which I bought about 14 months ago to see if I took to 4 strokes; I did and love it. I compete most weekends and the bike is rarely ridden between trials due to work etc and the poor machine is maintained to within an inch of it's life. I enjoy working on bikes as much as I enjoy riding them and the Montesa is an absolute pleasure to fettle with. My last trial was 2 weeks ago and towards the end of the last lap I noticed a noise, which had manifested the previous weekend, which was becoming "noticeable". After cleaning the bike off at home and restarting to try and trace the "noise" with a big screwdriver hearing aid, I found it to be coming from the cam chain side low down. Assuming it to be a worn cam chain and guides I prepared to order the parts and look forward to a big strip down. However, having chased my parts order on Friday which had not arrived nearly 2 weeks later, I found that due to a "system blip" the order had not yet been processed so I asked them to hold fire on the order as I had a free weekend to do some further investigations then get back to them on Monday with a full list of parts required. Having made up the little cam chain tensioner extraction and setting tool, I started to loosen off the tensioner housing (2 bolts) and noticed the whole housing did not seem to be under any pressure. Both bolts were about half way out by now and I pushed the tensioner back in to the cylinder housing with ease, so assumed the cam chain had stretched beyond the limit of the tensioner plunger. It was at this point that I tried out my newly made tool which slipped and suddenly the tensioner was under pressure. Removing the tensioner fully from the bike, I ran the plunger in a few times with a screwdriver and it was fine. There was no build up of contaminants in the assembly but I gave it a clean, refitted it using my beautifully crafted new tool and started her up (1st kick...naturally!). Sorted. No more cam chain noise. I have no idea how it happened but it did and thought I would share in case anyone else experiences similar. One question; do I trust that tensioner or replace with same or a manual one from H&D?
  7. Hi I always come acroos "new" 4RT riders at trials struggling to restart hot engines; I have found the most effective way is to find top dead centre (TDC) before attempting to restart from hot. Takes a little practice to find TDC but, from experience, I can confirm that a hot 4RT can be kicked over continuously and will struggle to start but if you locate TDC and give a gentle kick, it starts first and every time. Also, my inlet valves closed up a little recently and made the hot start problem more difficult; I adjusted the inlets to the higher gap in the manual and now is back to normal operation. Setting the idle screw to close to 1900 rpm as possible also helps and be sure to make sure, as someone else said, that there is a little free play in the throttle cable; if the throttle cable is too tight, it will open the throttle valve a little and screws up the throttle body sensor settings making starting very difficult.
  8. I got really excited when I saw the video but there's not even a glimpse of the bike on there. Now we have to wait a whole month before we see anything? Surely someone can leak a few photos in the meantime? They can still have their posh launch next month with the bike in the flesh. Impatient....
  9. The headache is not necessarily due to dehydration; those of us who suffer this excessive "head sweating" tend to be hotter than others and the headache is more often a result of the brain overheating. I have spent a lot of my working life in the steel industry and furnace ops required the use of, in addition to other heat resistant clothing, air cooled safety helmets. This was basically a visored safety helmet with a battery operated fan at the back which force ventilated the wearer's head inside. The "helmet headache" is a real thing and there is nothing worse than having a great day at a trial then driving home with a bumping headache. Takes the sparkle out of the day. I have never seen anything on the market to adapt to trials helmets but I am sure it is do-able.
  10. Does anyone know of any particular aftermarket top yoke for a 4RT (06/07) which has conventionally positioned bar clamps? By conventional, I mean not tilted back like the standard HRC ones fitted. Would prefer a fat bar option too if possible but not a deal breaker. My problem is that being 6'2" I feel the bars are too close to me and tipping them far enough forward speeds up the steering too much for me. Many thanks.
  11. Many thanks to all for useful tips which make sense and I am sure I will be able to apply to my riding without too much trouble. Will check the gearing but as it has new c&s it will have to wait till I've had my money's worth. Wasn't sure if I was asking a sensible question at first but judging by the high quality of responses, it obviously was. Many thanks again TC members.
  12. Thank you Addict and Jimmyl; taken on board and duly noted. To be honest, not checked the gearing yet despite having the chain off to clean! I know the 4rt is not as lean as 2 stroke counterparts and you don't have to be so subtle in your body language on board. The clutch master is not as big as the front brake; probably half the size. Did think the "not as good as my Evo" clutch action may be due partly to this as well as the gear oil, steel plates and generally tighter basket/hub:plate tolerances compared to European bikes. What you say about keeping it a smidge on the throttle makes a lot of sense too. Keep it "driving".
  13. Many thanks for your valuable tips and comments. I think the common theme amongst you all is that you have to keep "driving" the bike rather than using the stored inertia prevalent in a 2 stroke. Finer throttle control must be the order of the day, I think, and maybe trust the engine in the slow, tight stuff rather than clutch?
  14. I have also been told that if the idle screw is too far away from 1800rpm, the ECU will s**t itself and will disable starting by not allowing a spark. Alan Bird at FEETUP Trialsport is very knowledgeable too and has helped me out no end over the years with various bikes. I think he has and still works on every trials bike available.
  15. Hi. I bought my first 4 stroke about 3 weeks ago; it is a clean 2006/07 Repsol 4RT. I am in my early 50's and have been competing for about 3 years on the easy and 50:50 routes. My previous bike until 3 weeks ago was a 290 Evo 2 stroke, all of my previous bikes have been 2 strokes and I had progressed to riding reasonably competitively in my ability and age classes. I REALLY enjoy riding the 4RT for all the usual reasons but accept that the transition to 4 stroke from 2 stroke is a learning curve as the engine characteristics are so different. The first thing I noticed riding the 4rt is the engine braking which I think I like. The second thing I noticed is that the engine braking means timing is even more of the essence when shutting off the throttle over a hazard. I have also found that the myth of 4 strokes having better grip is also just that, a myth. I am hoping I can call on the wide ranging experiences of TC members to start me off with a few easy to remember pointers to ease and speed up this learning curve so I can get back in the game; I did my first competition on the 4RT yesterday and thoroughly enjoyed it but dropped twice as many marks as I would normally. Cheers chaps.
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