sammyd173

Well I'll just update myself here, for anyone interested... Those three screws took a lot of convincing to come off. I used an impact driver tool to get them loose. The plate came off with no trouble and it weighed 309 grams/ about 10 oz so was the stock unit. I've done some riding and really like how much faster the bike revs up. So much so that it seems more powerful off the bottom as it's so responsive. My challenge riding here in San Diego has been technical climbs at high rev's where you can't get the revs back up quickly with the little engine and flywheel slowing things down. So it helps with that. What I need to test is launching into big rocks where the flywheel would help pull me up. Fun to experirment!

Hello, my flywheel on my '17 TXT Pro is below. Could it be aftermarket? I have a friend with a '17 School 125 and it revs up SO much quicker than my bike and is a lot more fun to ride. I understand the stock flywheel is the same for both bikes. Can I just unbolt the three bolts and run no plate?! Do I have to pull the flywheel out to get rid of the plate, or do just the 3 bolts hold it on?

This is what helped me with timing for double blips and zaps. Practice the technique where you loft the front wheel into an obstacle and stop with the front tire resting in place on the face. Once you learn how to loft and plop the front wheel down and keep your balance, then try this: Loft the front wheel to double blip/ zap but go to land it the gently the same way you do when you are trying to stuff and balance. When it lands softly and a micro-second before it bottoms out, THEN you pop the clutch to get the lift. I was stuffing it in way too hard (oh missus!). Tried to pop the clutch as the suspension was still compressing at speed to use the momentum. It's like the bike comes to a stop for a fraction of a second and then launches.

Hello! Just got a 2012/ 2013 20.0. Previous owner said the batteries are new. When I charge the bike the fan continually cycles up and down i.e. speeds then slows. Anyone know what this might mean? Seems to happen after the bike has been on the charger for 20 mins or so. I'm aware not to charege for more than 5 hours. Thank you!

Wondering why these are $2.5k cheaper than a regular bike? Any differences besides wheels and forks? I have a ‘14 factory edition that is getting a bit long in the tooth. Rode one of these 125’s and loved it. Quiet and fun. Could even get one and swap parts over and resell the 300 at a bit of a discount...

As stated you unfortunately have to loosen a ton if not all of the other spokes to allow the hub to move back enough for the new spike to be attached. For me that means getting the local dealer to do it. No way around it!

Thanks all for the replies. I ordered both sides of the short half of the spoke. They are different lengths and have a different bend on the head . There is no way to just screw the two halves together. I tried and loosened the other interfering spokes - no joy, no way. So I have to have a shop loosen all of them so the hub can move relative to the rim. I will start paying more attention to my spokes from here on out!

Thanks for the reply; if I did that and re-tightened everything my wheel would be out of alignment! Never been good at that. Any other ideas out there?

I broke a spoke on the back wheel of my 2015 260 Cota. I got a replacement - it was for the bottom part that attaches to the rim. I can barely get the silver adjuster in between the two spoke halves, and because i have to screw it all the way in to one half there is no adjustment left to bring it taught. Any ideas? Could my supplier have gotten a 300rr spoke instead which won't fit?

The secret with fakies is leaning the bike into the ground to speed up the rotation. The more you lean the bike, the faster the rotation will occur. So, endo, roll back, turn the front wheel to the right, bike will initiate fakie turn, then smoothly drop the bike down further to the right and you'll speed up the process. I hope that helps!

I would practice on that grass slope. It's steeper and would be my choice. First thing though is to grab your mountain bike and learn to hop on the rear wheel without moving forward. Lock the shock if its got one. This will teach you to hop without having to zap forward, and will also teach you how to shift your hips to the side as you hop off the ground to jump the bike to the side (and stop it falling over). You will also figure out how to hop backwards and not step back off the bike when the front wheel gets too high (you simply pull the pegs back with your legs). Also, experiment while hopping with the 'bars close to you chest and further away to control front wheel height. Move your knees forward and back too, like you see when people 'manual' bicycles. Got all that?! Next I practiced/ continue to practice on wheelies on the trials bike in first gear where you almost loop out, then lock the rear wheel, and as the front comes down wheelie off again, and repeat. This is also hard. Finally, to get the rear wheel off the ground for the trials bike, it's a very quick stab of the pegs to compress the shock and then a flick of the clutch to accompany the rebound. I practice this from a crawl on flat ground. A fun trick is to do one hop on to the rear wheel, rear wheel locked, and then jab the pegs and hop backwards about a foot and land on both wheels. It's honestly not that hard, unlike doing successive hops. Good luck!

I'm wondering about how moving the rear wheel forward and back in the swingarm can affect what the bike does, and how noticeable it might be? It seems that the further back the rear wheel is, the more lift you would get when trying to blast up a rock. The cantilever effect would be amplified the further back the rear wheel was. Imagine the rear wheel a foot back (for mental illustrative purposes), and how much more that would lift you up as the rear wheel shot forward, sending you up. I wonder if Bou runs his rear wheel further back to get that amazing lift. It would also make sense - maybe - that the further back your footpegs are, the less of a lift effect you would get. Imagine your pegs all the way back to the axle of the rear wheel - you'd get no lift at all. Conversely (if anyone is still reading this blather), the closer the rear wheel is to the front of the bike, the easier it should be to balance on the rear wheel as you are not lifted up as high. Think of trials bicycles. And the further back the pegs are, the easier to control the bike on the back wheel? Then there's all the other implications of increased/ decreased rear traction, softening of rear shock when the wheel goes further back, and lots of other things I haven't even considered. So my question is, do any of you actually set up the back of your bikes with these effects in mind?

I think some riders would like the bottom end of a 300, and then then the mid-top of a 200. Lots of power off the bottom, no scary power when launching the bike with high revs. I think many of us (myself included) would do well to have some time on a 125 to get used to holding a bike pinned and then firing up things. Things would happen more slowly and be more predictable. It's taken me a while to get to this point on my Montesa 260. Hopefully I can transfer that over to my future 300 TRS!

So I have a 20" mod, 24" Inspired Skye and a 26" Ozonys. IMO, if you are at clubman level or below and you are trying to learn pivot turns, front hops, bunny hops, etc then you will do much better learning these techniques on a mountain bike with similar bar and pedal heights. If you've never been on a trials bicycle you will alarmed at the geometry, which is all based around being on the back wheel. This means pedals are very high up and 'bars are down low. They are also usually very far infront of the steering tube via a long stem which also makes the handling very awkward and further deviates from any similarity to a trials bike. I got trials bicycles because I like what people can do on them and I want to learn how to do stuff on the back wheel of my Cota, like hopping the bike sideways to keep balance at the top of a climb. If you can hop on the rear wheel or get close to it on a regular bicycle then give it a go. If you can't do any trick riding on a bicycle at all then this would be a big waste of money.

Interesting comments about the grooming. There was a situation at section 8 where Fuji and some other riders were grooming a kicker out of the dirt in front the biggest wall/rock. Checker came around the corner and stomped it out quite bravely and the crowd boo'd him, probably because the obstacle was so gigantic and impossible looking that they were just hoping to see riders get over. Then someone in the crowd yelled, 'it was already like that!' and so the checker let them rebuild it...! I think the sentiment was similar to the non-stop adherence or lack thereof. Who wants to stop a top rider from putting on a display? And the rocks were so big and dangerous in spots it almost seemed fair to let them do it. Almost.