jrsunt

Valves could be getting tight if they haven't been checked for a while. Has the Bank angle sensor been linked out?

Yep

There is a fellah on here that goes by the name of toneh. He has opened up and fixed one. Send him a pm.

It will grip, just not as you want it too. This can be practised on the flat Fot the conditions as you described, I would make it grip on the over run. Get it wound up and the wheel spinning on the approach, speed shouldn't be too important, but plenty of revs are as is rear biased body positioning. Shut the throttle with clutch released, the bike will now reduce in rpm, at some point the bike will grip (surprising and almost throwing you off the back). Catch this point back on the throttle to keep it driving and gripping. You are now a 4rt God

After a months initial abuse both sides were tight, then checked roughly every 6 months. Inlets never needed adjustment but the exhaust side did.

How deep are your pockets?

If you were coming straight off a modern 2st then you will notice the differences, but as it's your 1st bike in 35 years it will do everything better than your last bike! Seriously though, it's finding and keeping the grip that takes time to learn. It's pretty much a case of practice, practice, practice. Weight is not an issue, unless your doing a lot of trick riding, the suspension and frame more than makes up for the few extra kg's. Enjoy the TRS, it would be good to hear some back to back test reviews though.

It needs a high idle to keep everything running like clockwork. The idle can be dropped a little (using the adjuster on the left hand side off the throttle body) but not too much as you can encounter starting issues. Although the idle seems quite fast, proper throttle and clutch control will allow you to do the figure of 8 as slow and tight as you like. Start off big and give yourself plenty of room. Keep at it.

Yes, 4rt uses an NN3 part number which relates to the 315.

It will do things you don't expect, and the things you expect it to do, it won't. If you're riding purely for fun, then it won't dissapoint and the best bits are in between the sections.

Expect a big adjustment period, the 4rt will frustrate you to start with, but the grin on your face will more than make up for it.

If it's that hot then the only gear I'd like to wear would be shorts, t shirt and some trainers, but that wouldn't be very sensible, so stick to the proper attire, grin and bare it, drink plenty of fluids. As for your trails, 1st, 2nd or 3rd will be fine, if it's sticky under the tyres, pull 3rd. Trials tyres don't tend to clean themselves out very well at low speeds, so a burst of speed now and again will help clean the treads.

I've snapped them all in the Scott, even when new. The only chain I will use now is the DID ERT2. Not cheap but worth every penny. The last one has done 2 Scotts.

Mine does this when its hot, really hot. Usually about 4 hrs into the Scott. When it has cooled down for a few minutes it will run fine again

Plug it, use multiple strips (dog turds) to plug larger holes. May leak a little or completely fix it.

A big enough hit on the sump guard will split the generator cover nearly in half and crack the right crankcase cover, not cheap to replace and not easy to weld. Won't be trying that section again!!!

Thanks chappo. Not much smooth riding, you must have seen my one and only good ride! At least the weather was good though!

Is it the PHBH carb? If the mixture screw is on the cylinder side of the carb it should be "in" to lean and "out" to richen. I think we used to run them at about 2.25 turns out, but that was on the PHBL carb. When the screw is on the air box side, then it's as bilks described. It's been around 13 years since I messed around with those carburettor thingys, so I could be wrong.

That's the correct iridium. It may be worth trying the 5 if it doesn't get to stretch it's legs very often. I'm using the std filler cap with an open tube to vent.

I'd take the aftermarket breather off and try without it. The 4rt will soot plugs if it's not warmed up properly and the throttle blipped too much. As far as I know NGK don't make a cr6eh9 iridium equivalent, they do a 7 and a 5. I've been using the 7 iridium for a while, purely for the Scot as it tends to misfire when it's thrashed to within an inch of its life. When we rode abroad for the Europeans the factory lads would give us cr5eh9's.

I don't know, I've had a quick search but can't find it. I'll try again

Some time ago there was a thread running about throttle bodies going past The lock stop, which was fixed by a simple washer. Perhaps you're unlucky enough to have broken 2.

How about the bank angle sensor? Dodgy connection to the plug cap

Only when the s/arm had rubbed through the loom behind the engine. bad earth?

They tick over at 1800rm, so I'm guessing they could pull more than 10k