jrsunt

This is it..... Dadof2's bike that will save trials......

Mine is a Honda MRT on the log book so give that a try. As for the oils, really depends on how much and how hard it is ridden. Once or twice a week then I'd change the engine oil every 6-8 weeks and the filter every 12.. If your putting a lot of hours on it then change the oil every 4 and filter every 8. Use a good quality MOTORCYCLE OIL, I use motul 300v factory line 5w40. As for the gearbox, change it every 12 weeks, and I use the same oil. Its designed to be used in wet clutches on superbikes, so it should handle the mont OK. I've gone through 1 clutch pack in 12 years.

05, valve clearances.

Its an easy job to take the stator off the cover, 3x 4mm allen bolts and 2x 8mm bolts. Lets hope you don't ever need to replace the cover, they are the wrong side of £400!

You can view and download the workshop manuals giving a detailed explanation. Here's my method Sump guard off.....loosen front and rear bolts, then remove front bolts 1st. Be aware of tension on the bolts due to misshaped sumpguard, clamping of guard may be needed. Drain oil..... 12mm bolt on rear of generator cover and remove gear lever Start to un-do the generator cover, loosening opposites fully remove bolts laying them out in order Using the Lugs on the generator cover, prise the cover using tyre levers and a soft rubber hammer to break the gasket seal Carefully clean the gasket from both surfaces using a sharp blade Use a 8mm t-bar to un-do the filter cap and remove Wiggle the filter out, it's tight against the flywheel but it comes. Be aware of the spring behind the filter Re assemble, put a small blob of grease in the back of the filter to hold the spring in place...... Make sure filter is correct way round

Is there enough there to make 12 world championship standard sections?

You'll look a right .... Without it

It's because the fork with the Spring is longer than the damper fork leg. The front mudguard bracket usually holds them together at the same length. Loosen the mudguard braket then line them up by extending the damper leg. It's easier if the front calliper isn't mounted on the fork leg too

Yep, any good cobbler will do them. Soles can be picked up from MRS

Bad earth?

The B/A sensor sits behind the shock. There are 3 wires, white, green and I think red. Remove the sensor from the plug and join the green and white together. There is quite a detailed thread with pictures in the Montesa forum if you do a search

Valves could be getting tight if they haven't been checked for a while. Has the Bank angle sensor been linked out?

Yep

There is a fellah on here that goes by the name of toneh. He has opened up and fixed one. Send him a pm.

It will grip, just not as you want it too. This can be practised on the flat Fot the conditions as you described, I would make it grip on the over run. Get it wound up and the wheel spinning on the approach, speed shouldn't be too important, but plenty of revs are as is rear biased body positioning. Shut the throttle with clutch released, the bike will now reduce in rpm, at some point the bike will grip (surprising and almost throwing you off the back). Catch this point back on the throttle to keep it driving and gripping. You are now a 4rt God

After a months initial abuse both sides were tight, then checked roughly every 6 months. Inlets never needed adjustment but the exhaust side did.

How deep are your pockets?

If you were coming straight off a modern 2st then you will notice the differences, but as it's your 1st bike in 35 years it will do everything better than your last bike! Seriously though, it's finding and keeping the grip that takes time to learn. It's pretty much a case of practice, practice, practice. Weight is not an issue, unless your doing a lot of trick riding, the suspension and frame more than makes up for the few extra kg's. Enjoy the TRS, it would be good to hear some back to back test reviews though.

It needs a high idle to keep everything running like clockwork. The idle can be dropped a little (using the adjuster on the left hand side off the throttle body) but not too much as you can encounter starting issues. Although the idle seems quite fast, proper throttle and clutch control will allow you to do the figure of 8 as slow and tight as you like. Start off big and give yourself plenty of room. Keep at it.

Yes, 4rt uses an NN3 part number which relates to the 315.

It will do things you don't expect, and the things you expect it to do, it won't. If you're riding purely for fun, then it won't dissapoint and the best bits are in between the sections.

Expect a big adjustment period, the 4rt will frustrate you to start with, but the grin on your face will more than make up for it.

If it's that hot then the only gear I'd like to wear would be shorts, t shirt and some trainers, but that wouldn't be very sensible, so stick to the proper attire, grin and bare it, drink plenty of fluids. As for your trails, 1st, 2nd or 3rd will be fine, if it's sticky under the tyres, pull 3rd. Trials tyres don't tend to clean themselves out very well at low speeds, so a burst of speed now and again will help clean the treads.

I've snapped them all in the Scott, even when new. The only chain I will use now is the DID ERT2. Not cheap but worth every penny. The last one has done 2 Scotts.

Mine does this when its hot, really hot. Usually about 4 hrs into the Scott. When it has cooled down for a few minutes it will run fine again