jrsunt

Dan, stickers on the boost bottle will only quicken the dampening if you fit them with the yellow power band on the outside. The red power band holds the number board on

DID ERT2 has been the best I've used. Not cheap but will out last everything else.

What year? Up to 2009ish they were a 1 piece silencer, which could only be re-packed by cutting it open, re-pack, then weld back up. After 09ish they were pop rivited together and can easily be split and re-packed.

Your answers will be massively different from rider to rider, e.g, when I used to ride virtually every day and pushing the limits of my skill to improve i would break many things on a regular basis, work basically funded the trials habit. Sump guards, brake pedals, gear and clutch levers, engine covers, chains, tensioners, discs, handlebars...... You get the picture. The harder you practice, the bigger the crashes. As mentioned before, it's the new or beginner riders that tend to have nasty crashes, not knowing when to get off, or hang on. The expert riders will come off bigger obstacles, but they jump off when it starts to go wrong and land safely. The nature of trials requires the bikes to be durable and easy to work on and fix. If your stuck in the middle of Ranoch moor during the ssdt, you've only got the contents of your rucksack to save the day. Injuries, yes. Many. Broken tib and fib, knocked teeth out, elbow doesn't straighten, knee once had yama printed on it, plenty of gravel rash and the usual bumps, scrapes and bruises. Do we need to make trials safer? I'm not for the wearing of body, very restricted movement could mean more crashes, how about bubble wrapping every rock or even take them away? If your not prepared to get hurt now and again then get a different hobby. There will always be accidents in whatever we do, everyone has their own risk and pain threshold. Rider training would help beginners initially, but as their skill grows so do the sections.

Expect it to hurt and expect to be broken in body and mind. I don't think anything can prepare you for the brutality of pushing yourself and bike to the absolute limit for up to 8hours. You'll love it.

What's 2 stroke oil???

As J21 says, custom make your own. File the white or add to the black.

Heat them up and cool them down, it might not be the way to treat metal........ But it gives a good brake. Try it. Just riding around the street in 1st gear will generate enough heat, then stick the hose pipe on it.

Bent disc? Check the spokes of the disc for cracks/trueness

I don't think the std hose helps with the spongy feeling, and it could do with being about 3 inches shorter. The new new braktec system on the new repsols are really sharp if your after a mountain bike feel!

Last ones I changed were square, I'm sure. 2012 bike

Rev it, weight over the back, shut off, grip, wheelie

^^^ this. There are 2 different lengths. Make sure you've got the right one as they should join together easily.

What do you mean by running rough?

I was on both the repsol and the rr at the wekend and I'm not a fan of the tech forks or the shock, (whatever it is) on the std 260 and the RR, the shock, especially feels a little dead, but I haven't used anything but showa stuff since 2003. Overall, the RR was nice, but without the showa, the repsol felt a better bike. Another thing I noticed was the riding position, I don't know if the RR uses different bars or footrest hangers but the riding position felt somewhat flat compared to the repsol.

Any of them will be a pleasure to own and ride, the RR is not an intimidating bike at all, very docile and smooth at the bottom end and enough power at the top end to send you up anything. Maintenance is a doddle, oil and filter every 6 weeks ish, air filter and oil the chain. Probably less maintenance than a 2 stroke. Personally, my favourite is the 260 engine. If you want it, get it.

That 97 techno looks like it is either; a 97 dressed as a 99 or it is a 99. Either way it's clean. 75ml synthetic 2 stroke oil to 5l petrol 500ml 75wt gear oil

Yeah, they're fixable. Do you know al the spanner who worked at whites? He has done plenty in his time. Think he trades under al span now.

This is it..... Dadof2's bike that will save trials......

Mine is a Honda MRT on the log book so give that a try. As for the oils, really depends on how much and how hard it is ridden. Once or twice a week then I'd change the engine oil every 6-8 weeks and the filter every 12.. If your putting a lot of hours on it then change the oil every 4 and filter every 8. Use a good quality MOTORCYCLE OIL, I use motul 300v factory line 5w40. As for the gearbox, change it every 12 weeks, and I use the same oil. Its designed to be used in wet clutches on superbikes, so it should handle the mont OK. I've gone through 1 clutch pack in 12 years.

05, valve clearances.

Its an easy job to take the stator off the cover, 3x 4mm allen bolts and 2x 8mm bolts. Lets hope you don't ever need to replace the cover, they are the wrong side of £400!

You can view and download the workshop manuals giving a detailed explanation. Here's my method Sump guard off.....loosen front and rear bolts, then remove front bolts 1st. Be aware of tension on the bolts due to misshaped sumpguard, clamping of guard may be needed. Drain oil..... 12mm bolt on rear of generator cover and remove gear lever Start to un-do the generator cover, loosening opposites fully remove bolts laying them out in order Using the Lugs on the generator cover, prise the cover using tyre levers and a soft rubber hammer to break the gasket seal Carefully clean the gasket from both surfaces using a sharp blade Use a 8mm t-bar to un-do the filter cap and remove Wiggle the filter out, it's tight against the flywheel but it comes. Be aware of the spring behind the filter Re assemble, put a small blob of grease in the back of the filter to hold the spring in place...... Make sure filter is correct way round

Is there enough there to make 12 world championship standard sections?

You'll look a right .... Without it