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About harryharls

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  • Bike
    Beta Evo 250 2014

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  • Location
    Clitheroe, Lancashire
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  1. In desperation, I've purchased one of the cheap Chinese copies of the PHBG, the black 'racing' version (approx £40). It can't possible be worse and, you never know...I'll post back with how it goes.
  2. Thank you but that the standard carb is a Dellorto PHBG 21 BS (or at least that's what's on mine), do you know what the difference is? It looks pretty much identical apart from the oil input feed. I was hoping it was going to a totally different brand, a much better carb. I'm totally fed up with this bike (carb). The pilot jet blocks within the first 15-20 minutes on EVERY ride! I've totally stripped and cleaned the carb down at least twice and removed it to unblock the pilot jet on countless occasions. It's got an inline filter fitted, the airbox/filter is totally sealed, I can only assume that the particles are coming from the carb itself, it's utter garbage.
  3. p.s. I'm still on the same clutch pack and have never needed to replace it (with the exception of the two outer friction plates of course), I've had the bike at least four years.
  4. Oh, I forgot, but I just looked back at my contributions to this thread: I also replaced the two thicker clutch plates for standard thickness ones. I can't say for sure whether this was what made the difference or whether it was simply the nano-trans oil but I suspect it was the oil. FYI, the Evo uses 6 friction plates, the outer two are slightly thicker for some reason. I replaced the two outer plates for standard thickness ones (the same as the inner four). Still think it's just the oil though!
  5. Just use Putoline Nano Trans GP/N-Tech gear oil and save yourself all the hassle. Honestly, from my experience that's all you need to do! I tried all the filing and messing about and none of it really worked, once I put the nano Trans in, that was the end of it...sorted.
  6. Have you got the model of the replacement carb you fitted please, and the jetting?
  7. I've just got myself (my son) a 2018 Beta 80 and also wanted to confirm the model year. I've done a bit of digging and found that it's the 10th digit in the VIN that designates the model year, in my case the 10th digit is a J which, thankfully for me, denotes it to be either a 1998 or 2018 so all good there. The model year codes are as follows: A – 1980 OR 2010 B – 1981 OR 2011 C – 1982 OR 2012 D – 1983 OR 2013 E – 1984 OR 2014 F – 1985 OR 2015 G – 1986 OR 2016 H – 1987 OR 2017 I – Not used, because it looks like a “1” J – 1988 or 2018 K – 1989 or 2019 L – 1990 or 2020 M – 1991 or 2021 N – 1992 or 2022 O – Not used. Neither zero or the letter “O” are used as the 10th digit, thou zero may be used elsewhere in the VIN. P – 1993 or 2023 Q – Not used since it light be confused with O or 0. R – 1994 or 2024 S – 1995 or 2025 T – 1996 or 2026 U – Not used in the tenth digit, but can be used elsewhere in the VIN. V – 1997 or 2027 W – 1998 or 2028 X – 1999 or 2029 Y – 2000 or 2030 1 – 2001 or 2031 2 – 2002 (or 2032, etc...) 3 – 2003 4 – 2004 5 – 2005 6 – 2006 7 – 2007 8 – 2008 9 – 2009
  8. Thanks overdale, that's good to know. Looking forward to trying it out this weekend ?
  9. Interesting, mine is a 250 but I wonder if it would be better for the bike/engine to use super?
  10. +1 for Putoline Nanotrans, it totally cured my dragging clutch issues on my 2014 Evo 250. I'd tried everything else but this was the only thing that worked...and so easy!
  11. I hadn't even considered petrol type for my Beta Evo! I think I've just always used regular unleaded (95), should I be using super (97)?
  12. Hi all, Just wondering if anyone else here has installed the Carbon Tech reeds to their Evo 250? I've installed a set but haven't had chance to test yet other than with the bike stationary. In the paperwork supplied with the new reeds it suggests that jetting/tuning may need to be altered. My bike is all standard in terms of idle jet/main jet/needle/needle position. I've spent loads of time in the past messing about with carb settings on various 2 stroke bikes and it's always a tedious and often frustrating process! If anyone has any experience of these reeds and can recommend settings it would be fantastic and a big time and hassle saver! It may be that the air screw just needs adjuting slightly or it may need a leaner or richer pilot jet or different needle position etc. etc.! Thanks in advance
  13. Actually, I've just thought, considering that the actual fender itself is not broken,,,why not just fabricate a brace out of sheet aluminium to fit under the existing plastic brace? Or, even easier, would the Gas Gas brace fit under the Beta fender?
  14. I agree about the fragility of the integrated plastic front fender brace, mine has cracked/sheared around both bolt holes on one side. This was only after a very minimal crash too! What worries me is that it now has pretty much zero structural effect in terms of keeping the forks together. Rather than buying a replacement Beta fender, I'm really interested in the Gas Gas replacement which has the aluminium brace but which model/year of Gas Gas fits please?
  15. The blind bearing puller is a good idea Peter. I put 340ml in as suggested and just put it back together, it seems absolutely fine. In fact I cleaned all 24 sections tonight to win the trial, something I've never done before so it must be ok!! :-)
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