jrsunt

Genuine Honda for me all the way. They will last for years.

Although I haven’t had the slave cylinder off a 315 for many years. I think that should be normal. There isn’t anything stopping the gearbox oil entering the push rod hole. It will help it all operate smoothly. If it works correctly, isn’t any sign of leakage and doesn’t use any oil then I would think it’s job done.

The original Honda spacers and bushes are far better than the allballs cak. The spherical shock bearing has got to be the Honda one, it’s not cheap, but there is no comparison. (Don’t even consider the allballs one, there will be play) Top quality HK1512 roller bearings can be bought from local bearing traders at a decent price.

Could the engine have been apart? If so, perhaps the timing could be a tooth out. Check for spanner marks on cylinder and head bolts, also a sealant would have been used on the head cover giving indications of engine work

Leave it all closed apart from the reservoir cap. Those pesky bubbles should work their way to the highest point. When you come to have a go at it again, keep the system closed and use lots of tiny movements on the brake pedal to tease the bubbles out. (The vibrations should encourage them) You might lose pressure again but you’ll know that they’re on the move

Leave the rear end up in the air over night if possible. It’s just air trapped in the system some where. Don’t be tempted to push the caliper pistons back in though or the good work will be undone

That’s good news then 👍👍 The rest will come

Stupid question, but have you enough free play on the pedal-m/cylinder if the brake pedal is still on? Also, the reservoir cap and rubber can seal too well not allowing fluid to be sucked through. They can be infuriating, keep at it.

Used to do this on 315’s as well as 4rt’s. Put the rear wheel on your workbench or as high in the air as possible. Usually bleeds up straight away

I don’t know what level you ride at, but the limit of what the EM is capable of is far lower than the current or previous generations of petrol bikes. A good example was when Michael Brown (ex British Champ, world no 10, Scottish winner, Scott winner) to mention a few, enterered a British Championship on one. If Michael had entered on his regular Gas Gas he would have been challenging for the win in the championship class, but due to the limitations of the EM he entered the masters class or trial 2 or whatever it’s called and finished nowhere by his standards. (Probably would have beaten me on a petrol though). Until they drastically change I’ll stand by my words that they’re a step backwards.

The TRS linkage has similarities to the to the Montesa 315’s and 4rt’s. I think they use the same bearing size and bush set up. Both are nice to work on. The Beta’s and Gassers can be a little fiddly but ultimately they all do the same job

If you're used to Trials bikes the gear lever is in the normal position, if you're coming from a road bike then the lever is a little further away. This is due to the fact that it's based on a Trials engine. If the lever was closer to the pegs on a Trials bike you'd end up knocking the lever with the front of your boots (shin plate) when on steep inclines or in technical situations when you need to redistribute your weight. S3 do a kit which brings the lever closer to the pegs. It's a very capeable bike and good fun. The low seat height and light weight make it very useful. The only downside may be the fuel range (about 90 miles) and not having electric start if that's what you're used to. Flat out it'll do 120km/h, that's in stock form with the restrictors still in. I did a video on one a couple of years back on the you tube thingy. Most trail riders would benefit from riding one of these instead of a generic 450 Enduro bike, much more user friendly and they are much easier to handle if you get in trouble out on the trails

The CMNSL website is pretty good and reliable, I've used them a couple of times for various Honda parts. €308 for the Showa part is a pretty good price ?

If it's not too late, make sure there's free play at the pedal before you strip it down. I'm pretty sure you can kink or nip the pipe running from the reservoir to the m/cylinder if it's not been put back together correctly. Make sure the rear wheel bearings are ok too as they can pull the wheel out of line if they are shot

Unfortunately the 4r crank is a one off. I would suspect any wear there to give a "rumble" rather than a knock. How does the small end of the rod measure up in relation to the piston pin and piston? Check both ends of the pin where the piston sits and centre of the pin

My 2012 had done 4 ssdt's, 6 Scotts and was thrashed within an inch of it's life everywhere it went. I was going to put a piston and get the barrel done when I sold it, but when I stripped it down everything was perfect and measured to spec, so it went back together with new gaskets and rings only. I would guess that most of your internals will be ok, the only damage usually occurs from water. My 18 was drowned in the 2019 scott about 2 mins from the start. The bike knocked its tits off for the rest of the day. Upon stripping it down, the woodruff key had folded itself in half and stretched both ends of the con rod resulting in a knock that was noticeable throughout the rev range. If you split the crank, just make sure you measure and mark everything up. I made some plates up to help pressing everything back together so it couldn't be over pressed. The con rod is only available as a complete crank assembly, but the rod is a crf250 rod which are available everywhere. Just follow the manual and it's pretty straight forward, I don't think there is anything untoward. It's a little fiddly getting the cam chain and cam back on in the correct place but other wise ok.

Bent selector shaft. Drain water and gear oil, clutch side off, clutch out, fit new shaft re assemble.

They're pretty good to split the engine, it's a Honda, everything fits where it's supposed too and working from the manual makes it a doddle. I've done a couple of new con rods after bikes have been drowned and they're fairly straight forward. (One was mine in the 2019 Scott)

Don't get me wrong they're good fun, and as a addition to the garage they could be useful. But as a direct replacement to your petrol bikes they are a step backwards. Like all new bike models most have their problems, monts used to snap kickstart stops off the crankcase, other bikes gearboxs would explode for fun, others would destroy main bearings and others would stop sparking when they came across water.

Hmmm, after plenty of time trying to make these things work, even from new, I disagree. It's not like listening to the engine to diagnose the problem, it's a case of swapping every electrical item there is on the bike until it works. I'd be putting my hard earned cash in something a little more proven. They're good for playing about on, but as a serious Trials bike they've got some catching up to do, even though they are priced at the top end of the Trials market. If you've got a spare 10k for one, other brands top of the line models offer superior equipment, performance and reliability. Don't be fooled as to what a salesperson tells you, especially when there's ££££ involved.

For the same money I'd recommend petrol. Less problems easier to maintain and fix. The air forks in the 2020's were very light but also very poor compared to conventional forks. They are a good car park bike

Just the usual stuff really, Headstock bearings can start to feel notchy. The electrics are generally fine and the engine is virtually indestructible. Let it warm up properly then see if it starts easily. The silencer mounting bracket under the mudguard can get a bit messy if it's been dropped a lot.

Your natural reaction as to when the front wheel pops up is to put your weight forward to save your a***, but in actual fact you need to dig your feet into the pegs, keep your weight rear biased and canter lever between your legs and arms whilst controlling it on the throttle, clutch and rear brake. If you get in the correct position over the rear end, lock and brace your legs and you can control the front elevation by using your arms. Practice going past the limit, by anticipating the point of no return and just step off the back holding the clutch and bars to control it

Hopefully it will just be air in the system, but these things don't boil very often, even with the standard radiator. Again, why has it had the large radiator been fitted? Was the previous owner trying to cure a problem by fitting it?

Why has it had the oversized radiator fitted? Perhaps a thermostat problem. If the fan/thermostat doesn't work correctly, the ECU will kill the bike to help protect the engine