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brucey

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About brucey

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Triumph Tiger Cub

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  • Location
    Hythe, Kent
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    Male

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  1. Is it a blind bush you are replacing? If it is, you may find a reamer will leave a small taper near the end. I usually skim mine very carefully in my lathe using a boring tool. But that advice is only useful if you happen to have access to a lathe I guess! ??
  2. I would make absolutely sure the pilot jet isn’t blocked. Even if it means sticking a small piece of wire through it.
  3. Oiled up/blocked exhaust maybe?
  4. Speak to Bob at UPB Also Chris at Meriden Off Road is a wealth of knowledge if you don't mind travelling to Birmingham ............But lock up your credit card first ? The other option is to do it yourself. These require a couple of cheap special tools and are pretty basic engines depending on your mechanical ability.
  5. brucey

    Riding a 4RT

    I'm an average Club rider and at 60 ride a Tiger Cub and 4RT (both 4 stroke). I have also ridden Gas Gas's in the past. In all honesty, I can get away with more on a Gas Gas as they are lighter but ridden at Club level in non stop trials and trying not to use the clutch (old school), the 4RT is a great bike to ride. My 2014 Repsol has brilliant suspension and build quality. If anything,it's a bit too powerful and makes my 60 year old arms ache after a day's riding, however I'm not that fit! If you are anywhere near Kent, you are welcome to try mine. Technique is key with these bikes and I love mine although I tend to use my Cub on the easy route for club trials these days. You really need to try one around some simple sections and compare it with a 2 stroke to see which you prefer. Hope this helps. Bruce.
  6. Just a quick update. I fitted the alloy push rod tube without push rods and gaskets and measured the clearances as Thai-ty has mentioned above. I then select the appropriate top gasket to give me about 1mm clearance at the bottom of the tube. I also used a bit of tribond (?) sealant for good measure either side of the top gasket. Hey presto, no leaks......yet?? thanks for your advice ??
  7. Yup, It's a mod I did to both my Cub engines (shown to me by a guy called Henry Boudery) to help locate the top of the push rod. I normally dab a bit of grease on the bottom of the push rods and hold the rockers in their 'up' position with an elastic band. The top of the exhaust push rod is also painted red. Probably all a bit over the top but nice to know everything is correct before tightening the head down ? I have high hopes for the alloy push rod tube and I will also be using a bit of sealant as recommended by Bob at UPB ?
  8. I’ve ordered a nice new alloy push rod tube. Apparently it has a better location and thermal expansion rate. Fingers crossed ??
  9. I'm using the black one at the bottom and what's meant to be a superior gasket at the top that comes in 2 thicknesses. Saying that, I may try fitting the original red 'O' Ring ?
  10. Cub engine modified to allow me to run with outer cover removed to spot oil leaks. Unfortunately not required as the oil is easy to spot running out of the top of the push rod tube!
  11. O.k. I fitted the earlier 'R' Cam to my late engine, no problem. Replaced the primary drive chain and it now runs smooth and quiet. Made some parts to allow me to run the bike without the right hand outer cover on. This would allow me to spot any oil leaks from the gear lever shaft and outer cam bush. I also replaced the push rod tube top and bottom gaskets with new items. All is well apart from oil spewing out of the top of the push rod tube around the gasket. (see photo). I tried the thicker one when I assembled engine (without the push rods fitted) but it seemed to be holding the head off the barrel. I put a smear of sealant around the push rod tube flange on assembly and straightened a small dent in the flange which I was convinced was the cause of slight oil leak I had originally. Oil now drips out of the top of the push rod tube as a constant rate as soon as the engine is warm. I am running out of ideas. This engine was built from spare parts so the barrel and head haven't actually been together for any length of time but the barrel and push rod tube were together on my other (Armac Cub) engine. I upgraded the Armac Cub engine to 230cc and had barrel, piston and push rod tube left over. I'm beginning to wonder if the head and/or crank case has been modified in the past for the oil to return down the barrel stud holes but the 2 original oil return holes in the head are both clear. I therefore can't see why it should make any difference. I also ran the engine with the top push rod inspection hatch (in the head) removed. The push rod tube doesn't appear to be flooding, there is just a steady stream of oil from the head running back down the push rod tube. I'm fast running out of ideas. I guess I can try and lift the head enough to put the thick top gasket on as I have nothing to loose. Otherwise its engine out again after just 10 minutes running ? Any help appreciated.
  12. Just speak to Bob. However I would warn you that I ground about 1mm off the outer end of the camshaft to give me the required clearance at the end of the closed bush. I also skimmed about 0.1 mm from the ID of the bush on my lathe to give me the required fit. Also as said previously, an additional 3mm diameter lubrication hole needs to be drilled at an angle from the inside of the gearbox case so it breaks through just over half way down the bush. If you are not happy carrying out these operations, get an expert to do it. Another option would be to do what Naichuf has done and simply make an ally cap to cover the open end of the bush sticking through the gearbox case. Not sure if this needs the additional lube hole? Hope this makes sense ?
  13. Ok, the solution is quite simple? I got a special bush from UPB. The OD matches the later Cub side points gearbox cover and the smaller ID fits the outer shaft of the earlier distributor R (or standard) camshaft. with the bonus that it is a blind bush so should reduce oil leaks A small amount of fettling will be required which includes drilling an additional lube hole to supply the outer camshaft bearing. Photo of old (top) and new (rbottom) plain closed bearings attached . Hope this helps others.
  14. Many thanks for the information. I have a lathe and some phos bronze so if the worst comes to the worst I’ll turn a new top hat outer bush. My Armac Cub is running an ‘R’ cam and goes very well so worth a try ?? Not too hard to swap back if it doesn’t work.
  15. Blimey, surely I’m not the first person to have done this??.
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