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About brucey

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Triumph Tiger Cub

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  • Location
    Hythe, Kent
  • Gender

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5,998 profile views
  1. Smoking Cub help

    Out of interest, has anyone used the nylon balls and slightly different springs which I believe are available from a Cub specialist? apparently they seal better and are less prone to contamination.
  2. Smoking Cub help

    Many thanks for the info. I must type faster! The pump is brand new (has done 8 trials sections!) I have cleaned everything with carb cleaner and reassembled with fresh engine oil in almost operating theatre conditions! :-) . Chris is supplying gaskets, springs and balls.
  3. Smoking Cub help

    This is the pump disassembled. I'm assuming the grooves in the return plunger are for lubrication and are not meant to have 'O' rings in! I have removed and cleaned the balls and springs behind the end caps and ordered additional ones to put in the countersunk holes in the base when I refit the pump to the engine. I will also be reverting back to SAE 30 straight oil on this pretty standard engine. I'm hoping these actions will solve my issues.
  4. Smoking Cub help

    Cheers Paul. Chris at Meriden happens to be my expert 😊
  5. Smoking Cub help

    I pulled the plungers out of the pump. Balls and springs are located in both ends. I'm now not sure what make it is as it has LFH stamped on the body. I'm also not sure if it should have 'o' rings in the grooves on the oil return plunger. I'm assuming not.
  6. Smoking Cub help

    O.k. Just had a chat with an expert on Cub engines. He confirms the bike is wet sumping and it is probably a bit of muck in the oil pump internal return valve. I can (and will) fit additional balls and springs as a 'belt and braces' measure although they are not really required on the late (slider) pumps. I have also been advised to run the bike without an external oil filter and to replace the semi synthetic oil I'm currently using with a standard SAE30 oil. While I'm at it, I will also replace all the plastic oil feed and return pipes as they have become a bit stiff over the last 10 years! That should keep me busy for a while :-)
  7. Smoking Cub help

    Managed to upload a couple of photos by deleting some old ones :-) Should the oil pump chamber have oil in it? Countersunk holes on back face of pump may indicate it should have balls and springs to stop wet sumping in my opinion.
  8. Smoking Cub help

    collyolly, The pump is brand new. I looked at the Morgo Website and it appears the latest type (square slider) pumps don't have springs and balls under them! Interestingly, my pump doesn't have Morgo written on it. I think it as a 3 digit number. naichuff, Thanks for the info. I believe that is what I have but the dowel was fully inside the crank case and only popped out when I had the feed pipe off and turned the engine over!
  9. Smoking Cub help

    Thanks guys, Looking at the pump I think I've been given some duff information. The latest type pump still has counter sunk holes in the back which indicates it should have non return balls and springs. I questioned this when I bought it and was told they didn't ! Can anyone confirm if the oil feed pipe should have hollow dowels in the crank case inlet and outlet holes? Unfortunately I seem to be unable to upload any photos even though I have reduced the file sizes.
  10. The dowel is locate the oil pipe so the oil holes line up Make sure it is not in to deep as it can block the oilway    I had a crankcase altered to take the block driven oil pump On rebuilding engine did not check  under the pump It smoked and used all the oil nearly wrecking the motor Stripping it back down no balls or spring and the gasket damaged allowing oil to go from the inlet and return ports and back The service ring gap is 10 thou measured on a non worn part of the bore  

    1. brucey



      Just noticed this on my profile.  That's great information and believe I have something similar going on.

      Many thanks for taking the time to help.

      Best Regards,


  11. Smoking Cub help

    Cheers collyolly. Makes sense, I just need to find out how and why. I need to check the hollow dowels (which I can do by checking my other cub. I'm still not convinced the latest type pumpdidn't have ball bearings and springs under the mounting.
  12. Smoking Cub help

    Further to my post regarding the Cub oil return mod, I have now started stripping the engine to find a cause for the smoking. The engine was built from bits and pieces and put in my spare frame for my Son to ride. It starts and runs ok. He entered its first trial and almost completed the first lap with no issues. It then started smoking badly on tickover so we retired the bike. I carried out a number of the usual mods when I built it including adding a blind camshaft bush and putting a large breather in the unused distributor hole, Alpha big end, etc etc. I also fitted a new (later type) oil pump. I measured the clutch and gearbox oil when I removed it and am pretty sure it's engine oil thats being burnt. My findings so far are as follows: 1. Piston and rings look fine (I suspected a broken ring as a possible cause) 2. Oilways from head to crank case appeaer all clear. 3. I drained 300ml oil from crank case (virtually no oil was left in tank so I lost at least 300ml of engine oil) 4. There seemed a lot of oil in the cavity where the oil pump sits. May be a re herring. 5. There are no ball bearings and springs inder the oil pump as I was told the later oil pumps didn't use them. 6. I recently replaced the oil feed pipe gasket as the ild one split and was leaking. On removing the oil feed pipe and turning over the engine, a hollow dowel popped out of the front hole nearest the front! there doesn't appear to be a hollow dowel in the rear most hole. May be another red herring but could be missing. 7. Oil was evident in the breather pipe when the engine was running/smoking which would indicate too much oil in the sump.(especially considering how much I drained out of it!) I will be removing the valves to check the guides but they are phos bronze and look ok. I would dearly like to find something wrong before I reassemble the engine!
  13. Cub valve springs

    Same cam followers for both standard and high lift cams as far as I'm aware. Stronger after market valve springs are available from a number of sources to stop valve bounce at higher revs if you are concerned. I have used them in my 230cc Cub engine that uses an R cam. Hope this helps.
  14. Tiger Cub Oil Return Mod

    Thanks for the replies guys. I'm going to strip my old engine to find the cause of the sudden excessive smoking and oil leaks. My Armac Cub has a standard oil return set up with the Armac crank case breather and every other mod I can think of to eliminate oil leaks! I am using a large bore rocker feed pipe. I'm just in the process of justifying a 250 Max Heys barrel conversion with the associated oil return mod to see if I can resolve this problem once and for all!
  15. Tiger Cub Oil Return Mod

    I continue to be plagued by oil leaks on both my Armac Cub and my old 'bitza' Cub. Most of the oil seems to leak around the rocker covers and push rod tube. Both bikes have had various mods done to the breather system. My Armac Cub has a 230cc conversion and modern piston but I now thinking about fitting that to my old Cub and fitting a Max Heys 250cc barrel conversion to the Armac which I believe uses a modified oil return. I'm aware this mod returns the oil from the rocker area down the barrel studs rather than down the 2 small holes in the top of the barrel. I'm wondering if will help with my problem as I think this area is flooding with my current set up. Does anyone have any more information on this mod? As usual, any help appreciated.