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dorian

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  1. Late to the party here just ran across your post. I put a S3 flywheel weight on my '12 Sherco 2.9 and so far, so good. It slowed the response which makes it easier to ride especially when I'm tired and better grip in the mud and moss where I live. I'm a novice-class rider eyeballing intermediate. I imagine removing as my skills improve but maybe not - I really like the way the motor responds with the added weight. Cheers
  2. Man I wish but only as a spectator I'm afraid. Not in the cards as a rider for numerous reasons - not the least of which are a pair of old re-constructed knees that aren't up to the task - let alone my fitness and riding (lack of) talent. I do admire the hell out of you guys that throw yourselves at events like the Scott and SSDT and place or even just finish! To say it is quite an accomplishment would be an understatement IMO. I left motocross in the mid-seventies to ride trials for a few years before moving on to enduro in the eighties. Always loved the sport and followed it casually (SSDT etc) since and attended a couple of world rounds '86 and '90. I've collected numerous books over the years on the subject going back to Sammy Miller, Don Smith and others. My wife loves the sport so I can see us possibly making a holiday of it in Fort William for a few days in the future.
  3. Thanks heaps for the reply jrsunt and others! Sounds like the Scott and SSDT are similar in this regard. Mostly confidence and personal preparation (mental and physical fitness). Now if I could figure out a way to be thirty years younger... Cheers, Dorian
  4. Thanks lineaway. I was referring to The Scott (not SSDT)
  5. I've long been curious what the differences are relative to bike set-up for the Scott vs. a "regular" trials event? Is additional fuel carried? Is suspension set-up different (stiffer)? What tire pressures (due to the higher speeds) on the route? Tools carried etc... Just intrigued by the unique requirements of such an event and how the riders prepare their bikes. I figured this would be the place to ask! Cheers, Dorian
  6. I just bought a '15 Evo 300. Manual says that map switch depressed is "hard" map (sun), normal position is "soft" map (cloud). However the sticker on the switch itself says the exact opposite from the manual. Anyone know for sure which is correct? Not critical I guess since my skill level isn't at a point where I can really tell the difference between the two settings - or maybe there isn't an appreciable difference? Just curious mostly. Thanks, Dorian
  7. Resurrecting an old topic here... I was wondering about sealing the flywheel (mag) cover on my new '14 300 Evo 2t and found this thread. After a wet ride and/or carefully washing the bike with a garden hose a fair bit of water collects inside the cover. I'm not keen on water ingress especially since it is usually pretty wet where I live so I'll be sealing the cover with a bead of silicone. I used to vent the mag cover and seal it up on my Bultacos - pulling off once in awhile to check and re-seal - and it worked great! BTW, the flywheel case is already vented from the factory on the Beta so no worries there. Cheers, Dorian
  8. Thanks for the link. Wow, based on their info a little goes a long way! My 600cc capacity cooling system will only need ~1 oz. I'll pick some up this week. - Dorian
  9. Thanks heaps for the feedback all - very helpful! Coolant level fine since rebuild. I'll bump the main jet up to a #145. Will check into Water Wetter also. I'll see how it goes once I get a chance to ride it in a meet or higher gears/speeds. Thanks again! Dorian
  10. I bought a well-used 2006 Rev-3 270 that had fried main bearings and in general a worn-out motor. I just did a total engine rebuild (top end, crank, bearings, seals etc). Bike starts and runs great! Stock Mikuni VM26 carb with #140 main, 27.5 pilot, needle clip 3rd position (middle), air screw 1.0 turns. Unleaded premium fuel with Maxima 927 at 60:1 and stock heat range spark plug (NGK BP7ES) stock ign timing. Motorex pre-mixed coolant. Waterpump housing, seal and impeller in good condition. I ride at sea-level mostly and have run about six tanks of gas thru the bike riding around the property, the majority of the time crawling around in 1st and 2nd gears, ambient air temps 70F to 85F. Whenever I first start the bike from cold the fan doesn't run until I've been riding for 10 minutes or so. After that the fan runs constantly while riding. I'll shut the bike off for five or ten minutes and upon re-starting the fan is running. I haven't yet been able to intersperse slow speed riding with any faster riding (3rd thru 6th gears) to see if more air moving thru the radiator will cause the fan to shut off? My question is; how often/long should the radiator cooling fan run? Is this normal for this bike or do "they all do that" ? Any info appreciated! Thanks, Dorian
  11. The Paioli shock on my '06 Beta Rev-3 was leaking and in dire need of a service. The Paioli rebuild kits are unobtanium. I called around to the usual trials outfits with no luck - not even a new aftermarket was available. My friend Iain at Touratech in Seattle suggested I call Alex Martens at Konflict Motorsports www.konflictmotorsports.com in Redmond, WA. Even though he'd never seen a Paioli "No problem send it to me we can fix your shock" Alex says - which I did. Alex couldn't find an exact match but sourced a more common seal that fit - he just has to machine the seal holder - which he did. Shock serviced and re-charged and on my bike working great. Thanks heaps to Alex at Konflict. If you have a Paioli (or other) shock off your "old" trials bike that needs some attention give Konflict a try! It was refreshing to talk to a non-trials suspension guy who cared and had a can-do attitude! Cheers, Dorian
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