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  1. The red is definitely rebound. There is an E on the clicker. Rebound in tech Spanish is Extensión
  2. Here is some more info. Disc side has a red clicker on top. opposite side has a black clicker on top. I found a parts fiche by typing in the part number of the fork legs BT280114019 & BT280114009. You will see on that diagram that the black clicker is compression. I would assume that the red on the disc side is the rebound. https://www.bike-parts-gasgas.com/gasgas-motorcycle/TRIAL_200/2003/TXT_2T_PRO/TXT-PRO-200/FRONT-FORK/223/5/0/223
  3. Hi there. I'll keep you updated. It looks like the right side is rebound dampening and the left compression. But I'll get back to you once I've had a good look at mine.
  4. Hi there Richt. Thanks for the information. i'll have a look at the Hell team website as well.. Best, Tony
  5. Hi there. I have a 2001 Sherco which is running 38mm forks off a 2003 GASGAS. I am currently servicing them. Can anyone tell me what weight fork oil they run, capacity per leg, and air volume? You know, all the usual stuff. I have had no luck so far finding any service information for these units. Thanks in advance. Tony
  6. I'll ask. I might be able to get it done.
  7. Hi. I have a 2001 sherco 2.5. The radiator needs to be replaced. model number c115. I believe this unit was used up 'till about 2005. I am looking around, but they are difficult to come by. Has anyone else had this problem? Can another unit be adapted to this machine. Any input from long time Sherco riders would be much appreciated. PS: if anyone has or can source a radiator that will fit these years. Please get in contact. I'm happy to buy and pay for postage to Oz. Cheers Tony
  8. Thanks for that. I'll have a look at that. There may be a rebuild on the cards T
  9. Hi. I have a Montesa Cota 315 1999. F Brake master cyl is a Grimeca I like to go practice pivot turns in the back yard. But recently after doing them, the front brake goes to the handlbar and i have to pump it to get something back. It happens every time I do them. I've bled the system, wound the adjuster right out, rebled. Checked the caliper and all that. But its still doing happening. (the brake stays firm when I'm just noodling about but when I go back to the pivots I lose pressure again) There are no leaks that I can see. Nothing at the caliper, hose is fine, connection look good. I even filled the fluid reservoir right up, just in case what I'm doing is allowing an air pocket to get into the line Has anyone has this issue? Who will be the first to tell me my master cylinder needs rebuilding? where is the air getting in and why?
  10. Thanks for the link. Very informative. I have ordered a flywheel puller and will have a look at my timing settings.
  11. Thanks for your responses. I have a look at these suggestions and post again when I've done it.. Cheers
  12. Hi all. Here is a question for those knowledgeable in the ways of 2.5 Shercos. When I go start it I get a kickback. It may happen once or twice but bike still fires after that. In my experience the only time I ever got a kick back like this was with a PE250 and in that case it was sheared flywheel key and it wouldn't go until that was fixed. In this case bike starts after a couple of kicks. Any ideas? Familiar phenomena?
  13. Oops. I got that wrong, Whatever. Anyway.. 26.5 INCH LBS rear is a good start. It tells me the values are not too different from other setups. Cheers
  14. Thanks for the advice.. I had all the spokes replaced and the front wheel rebuilt a while ago. I then did a couple of seasons tightening various spokes as needed. Recently I did some overdue truing work to remove some side to side and up and down that had appeared. I followed the above clip and another posted by Rocky Mountain ATV and got everything running quite nice. But to finish the job properly as recommended in these clips I need to go round the wheel doing every third spoke and torque everything up evenly (after truing there are some significant differences from spoke to spoke) Going by ear after a major rebuild or truing work is not really the best option and the adjusted spokes if not torqued evenly probably won't bed in very well. Hence my question asking if anyone know the spec torque values for these wheels. Not just my old bike but all models of Trails machines. My manual doesn't mention anything but the info must be available. 26ft lbs is recommended through Rocky Mountain and in some cases MX wheels get torqued up to 60ft Lbs! 26ft Lbs seems ok for regular riding but trails bikes with along with use of low pressures etc, may have higher torque values to help them cope with being smashed over rocks and such. cheers
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