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Sum

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About Sum

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  • Bike
    2020 GasGas TXT 280

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  • Location
    Maryland, USA

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  1. Thanks Mnug. I took this route and installed an hour/tach meter. The installation was easy. The toughest part was to find a flat place to attach the meter because GasGas TXT has round shapes everywhere. I ended up in using heavy-duty double-sided Velcro and attached it right above the gas tank cap, which worked quite well. I think the hour meter is more useful for maintenance but it is nice to have the tach too. Previously I chose an idle speed based on my liking, which turned out to be 1,300rpm. It is a bit higher than the factory recommended (900-1,100) but not too bad.
  2. Thank you all. feetupfun, do you mean the throttle cable? The rubbers seem fine, but air leak does make sense. I've never pulled out the carb but if the symptom persists, I may need to. Well, sooner or later, this is something I need to learn.... I have been watching YouTube videos yesterday to prepare myself for it๐Ÿ˜…
  3. Hi, Today, while practicing slow wheelie, I looped out. Ever since, the idle of my bike became unstable. Each time I close the throttle, as the rev goes down, the rev goes periodical up and down until it settles at the idle. Then the idle itself is also unstable and stall after a while unless I keep blipping. I hope it is transient like the plug is wet or the carburetor got flooded, but so far it hasn't come back to the normal. I appreciate any suggestions to fix it.
  4. Thank you all. I keep working on front up and what faussy and leosantanalg said start to make sense. As Jrsunt said, I noticed that I tend to lean forward as soon as the front goes up, which caused my right toe to hit the brake. I just relax and try to keep my position relative to the bike unchanged as much as possible (meaning rear biased as the front goes up). Funny that as I get used to the foot brake position of the trial bike, I start to feel the rear brake of my dirt bike too low.
  5. Thanks. This is exactly what I needed. According to the manual, 80N/mm is the standard for the rear shock and the 75N/mm one is for 55-70kg. So, I guess Jitsie site is wrong. I have to find out if Jitsie would ship it to US, though. Edit: I found a Jitsie dealer in US. Thanks!!
  6. My body weight (<135lb) is too light for the standard setup and sure enough, I can't set static and riding sags correctly. There is an OEM part for a softer rear shock coil but it costs more than $300๐Ÿ˜ฑ and there is no OEM fork springs for lighter or heavier riders. I wonder if there are other sources that are selling third party parts. Not sure how critical to have correct springs for beginners, but >$300 seems a bit too much... Your help would be appreciate.
  7. Thanks Michael, Could you give me the link? The one you posted was just a photo.... Also, thanks Kurtas and Faussy. It starts to make a good sense about the foot positioning. It is still a mystery for me why the brake pedal is so high (and there seem many complaining the same), but it seems that I need to master some skills about the way I use my ankles. Especially the tilting of my ankle outward is something I've never thought about. Given how small the pedal is, that'd be effective. In addition to the usual longitudinal tilting, just a small amount of sideway tilting would increase a lot of flexibility about how to reach the pedal. I'll keep on practicing with those in my mind
  8. Hi all, I'm new to trial bikes and would appreciate a bit of education about slow wheelie. After several weeks of practices, I start to be able to reach the balancing point but have problems with the rear brake pedal. Many instruction say "cover the rear brake" and I have no problem with my dirt bikes doing so. However, my trial bike has the rear brake pedal much higher than my dirt bikes; I can only bring it down to slightly above the level to the foot step. Then, I often inadvertently drag the rear brake as the front wheel gets higher. There are several scenarios I can think of; 1) This is because my body position is wrong during wheelie. I should not change my body position relative to the bike as the front goes up. The fact I drag the rear brake means, I start to lean forward, bringing my toes down, thus pushing the rear brake. This may be the case, but I have seen many pros keep their position vertical to the ground (therefore learning toward the handlebar) to clear large obstacles. I have no idea how they can do it without pushing the rear brake. Probably by dropping the heel? 2) I should not constantly cover the brake. I should move my right foot only when I need to press the rear brake. 3) I should cover the rear brake, but twist the toe a bit clockwise such that I do not accidentally hit the brake. 4) Somehow I need to lower the brake pedal further. 5) Something else? Your advises would be much appreciated.
  9. Thanks Arnoux, I tried to find the Leonelli cable, but can't find it in Internet. Could you tell me where I can buy it? Thanks Jeff and faussy for the tips.
  10. Hi all, The manual of 2020 TXT says the idle should be adjusted to 900-1,000 rpm, but how can I know the rpm? The manual shows a "diagnostic connector". Does it mean I can connect an OBD scanner to read diagnostic information including rpm? If so, does anybody know what is the connector between an OBD and the GasGas "diagnostic connector"?
  11. Sum

    Exhaust pipe pop

    Thanks! Bought a 10-tooth
  12. Sum

    Exhaust pipe pop

    The manual says the idling jet is 45. A smaller sprocket is actually a good idea, because if I can rev just a bit, it goes away. A dealer near me started to sell GasGas from this season. I'm very lucky because it's only 30 min away. Otherwise, the closest one (Beta) used to be 100 miles away. Bad news is, this is the first trial bike they ever sold and I don't think they have much experience.... It seems some KTM dealers in US start to sell GasGas.
  13. Sum

    Exhaust pipe pop

    Thanks Tshock250 and Jeff, Looking at YouTube, I have seen some are similar to mine and some seem much less. It doesn't bother me that much but some practices require "no clutch" slow operations, which are quite hard with the bangs at low speeds (they disappear with little rev). If I can tame it down a bit that'd be great. Played around with the air screw a bit but I must agree that the factory set (1 - 1.25 turns) is the best. I'll try high octane for the next fuel. thanks,
  14. Sum

    Exhaust pipe pop

    Thanks. I searched through Internet and found this description; "rider is experiencing rich pipe bang, it's a deeper sounding bang and the bike lurches forward on each bang". This is exactly what I'm experiencing and, thus, probably the rich pipe bang. Because it happens only at idle, would you suggest me to try the air screw, letting more air to come at idle? Or should I try the idle jet? I suspect this is, to some degree, a normal behavior and maybe I should not worry too much about it....
  15. Is it possible that I need to clean the carb even for a brand new GasGas? My 2020 TXT 280 needs good 10-20 kicks to start. I don't want to think about what would happen if it stalls in the middle of a steep slope.....
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