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About pindie

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    2012 Beta Evo 300

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  • Location
    South East Wales
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  1. Great solution!!!
  2. pindie

    Will Not Start

    A fouled plug can normally be revived by a can of brake cleaner. Just squirt up in the plug between the insulation and the threaded outer body. It’ll clean any oil/fuel shorting it out. As others said. Always store the bike with the fuel turned off. Seems many trials bikes don’t like it left on. My enduro bikes the opposite. It never leaks unless I turn it off for long distance transport or maintenance, then when I turn back on it loves to pour out the drain hose.
  3. pindie

    Evo fuel cap problem.

    It’s sorted. Three hours riding woods/slopes yesterday and no fuel came out the breather. It was a £25 fix but easy just swapping caps.
  4. pindie

    Evo fuel cap problem.

    Good to hear you sorted it. You have more patience than me!!! We should hook up over the winter. The trials bikes a secondary beast for me mostly. Enduro is my main focus but after lockdown I’m to fat and slow to race at the moment. It’s good to be back on the trials iron refinding skills. Not been down Vale of Towy but always up for some riding.
  5. pindie

    Evo fuel cap problem.

    My 2012 puffs out fuel and excess air. It was driving me mad with fuel burping out. I even made an extended vent hose to get it lower and away from me. Yesterday I bought a new cap! They ain’t cheap. £25!!! I will find out if it works any better. If no different then you can have my old one to experiment with/pull apart?
  6. pindie

    Tire musings

    If you were doing a long event I can see the benefits of Tubliss up front. You can’t get a pinch flat in the tube If say crossing moors at a pace and you hit a rock in grass. That would be a right pain, flat tube out on exposed hills. Tubliss removes that issue, you could also drop pressure right to zero if need be. I’ve done this a lot on the enduro bike. For technical or tight/slow events in winter it is brilliant. Flat tyres does two things. Makes the wheels smaller meaning quicker acceleration and more responsive. Huge grip as the tyres are like caterpillar tracks!.....and the bikes lower so easier to dab when needed. I’ve found my rims don’t get mashed because the 100psi inner core and bead/sidewalls of the tyre place a rubber cushion for impacts. I love it! Got some of my best enduro race results on flat tyres. I have a set not on the enduro bike ATM. I might try it up front for winter.
  7. pindie

    Tire musings

    I’m a Tubliss fan. Done hundreds of hours with them but on my enduro bike. Pointless on a trials bike as like others have said. What is used these days just works.....even on the Rev3. I had a 200, brilliant bike. Grab yourself some new rubber, rim band and if need be (wise precaution) new front tube. Be happy.
  8. Try a quick blip of throttle as you try for neutral as well. It often helps. Make sure the clutch fluid is fresh and well bled. Putoline Nanotrans GP gearbox oil can help with clutch drag issues.
  9. I use Alpinestar tech 7s on my enduro bike. I drilled 5-6mm holes in the bottom and also in the plastic ankle area that touches the bike. Water goes straight back out. Usually too hot to ever notice cold wet feet even in winter. In summer the air gets in too. You always have very dirty feet though! I have AS trials boots to but not sure where I’d drill holes to work the same.
  10. TY80 back in the day amongst various other scrappers and death traps. Suzuki RL250 Beamish- my dads but has ended up with me after him moving house. I spent hours on this as a kid. Gasser Raga 300. Angry. Gear box broke so traded for a.... Beta Rev3 200. Perfect bike. Could not fault it. Sold this (big mistake) for an EXC 450 to do some rallies with. 2012 Ossa TR280i. Another excellent bike. Sold this as parts were getting scarce and I wanted to ride it more. Really easy bike to ride though. Bought a very clean but mechanical tired 2012 Evo300. It was an animal. Parts from zero tlc kept failing/wearing out. Slowly got the chassis sorted and in lockdown did the whole motor. 1mm base gasket and now it’s great. Had plenty of other bikes for the road but my main passion is enduro. I have a TE150 small bore screamer. Brilliant fun and easy to ride. Like totty79 I’m looking to the future now. The epure bikes get my juices going, one of these opens up sooo many riding opportunities. I also love the Vertigo 200 so it’ll be a challenge to decide between a sparky or dino burner when the time comes.
  11. If the air screw hasn’t been touched and you’ve gone leaner on the pilot and are now experiencing less strength in the motor, try going in on the air screw 1/8th turn at a time (richer) and re test. You can also try coming out from where it is now. One will be the right direction to follow. Make sure engine is fully warmed first and idle is set right. The main won’t be having any affect at smaller throttle openings. That only comes into play after half throttle. You will be able to dial it in though easy enough.
  12. pindie

    Head scratcher ?

    Or a nudge with anything other than a finger! Maybe a stick, leaf, grass etc.
  13. I gave my Evo new mains, seals and gaskets at the beginning of lockdown. I probably replaced more bits and bobs than required and added a couple of other parts to my order. It cost around £200 and like crabstick it took a few hours to do the work. Very happy with the result. First time I’d gone that far on a motor in about 30 years so was daunting but the results are very welcome. If the bike is otherwise clean and ok I’d suck it up and do the work. You’ll then have plenty of enjoyment out of it and the money it’ll cost will be recovered when you sell it.
  14. Did you bleed the rod before bolting back up?
  15. If you’ve not ridden off road before or done any trials, do not overlook a 125. It’ll teach you plenty and not punish you for mistakes. Being a 125 doesn’t mean it’s rubbish. Leave the ego at home and learn some basics quicker and easier.....then get what you’d really like after a bit more experience?
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