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About pindie

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    2012 Beta Evo 300

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  • Location
    South East Wales
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  1. I like pushing the pads and pistons fully back into the caliper. If you have worn pads use a wedge of card/soft wood to take up slack between pad and disc. Then bleed as normal. Sometimes if it won’t start, you may have crud in the nipple end. Hold lever pressure hard while you open the nipple, it should clear it...
  2. pindie

    Exhaust silencer

    Check part numbers on Lampkin website? Does a 125 use a smaller tube diameter?
  3. pindie

    piston rings

    If it is sounding tinny, maybe it is running a leaner setting in the carb? It might be worth checking what’s in each carb before opening up the motor?
  4. pindie

    clutch advice

    Do you have three or four digits? If four then it’s likely it’s the 127.5?
  5. pindie

    Beta 200 for a 11YO

    Fast was white and now black is slow on my 300 after changing it. Peel back the grip and see what colour it is.
  6. pindie

    clutch advice

    As lineaway says Retro. It’s under the intake side and not air box side And side of carb like a 2t air screw. I’ve not ever looked at a 4t fuel screw on a Evo but I know on other dirt bikes they are a pig to get to at the best of times. I used to use a little 90 degree ratchet on my KTM 4t to reach it. I can see why people suggest adding the thumb screw for easy adjusting. Try wiping a permanent marker over the jet markings and wipe wipe your finger before dry. The marker ink will stay in the markings but wipe off the outside making the numbers easy to see....
  7. pindie

    clutch advice

    On a 4t? Isn’t that a fuel screw instead? Therefore works the opposite way around to a 2t air screw on a carb. On a 4t you close (clockwise) for leaner and open (anti-clockwise) for richer fuel screw settings. If you didn’t know this you could be accidentally closing the fuel screw thinking it’s getting richer but it’s not. This would then cause much head scratching and a feeling you need different pilots etc or any other perceived issue.
  8. Just done my 2012 Evo mains. The old were metal sealed. New ones in Beta packets from a dealer have rubber seals. The case seals were also full rubber. Working fine at the moment now back together. Sounds very smooth. I removed the flywheel weight as it caused the bike to run on too much for my liking. I had to change gearing and throttle also to a slow one. I heated the bearings to fit back to the crank with a hot air gun with it angled not directly into the seal. Lots of little rests and misting the seal with iced water spray seemed to work- I love the top hat idea though. Once hot, drop case on before heat drops, bolts in and tighten evenly and quickly. Seemed easy enough. Worst bit was getting the shift drum and selector wheel all in place nicely. My 300 was nasty Before. Didn’t enjoy it before. It had a 0.5 base gasket. I replaced it with a 1mm gasket. Much smoother power now and more enjoyable. I’m also an older rider, mainly enduro. Trials just helps development/maintainability of skills. Probably.
  9. pindie


    Go onto the lampkins beta website. Look in the info section and you can get pdf manual downloads there. If not try the beta main website or beta USA. Are you sure it’s an Evo? I thought they came later. I had an 07 rev 3. I wonder if you also have a rev 3?
  10. Awesome. Job done.
  11. Crud on the mating surface of the fork? Correct bolt torque?
  12. Just a thought but if you keep filling it back up how much will it take each time? You might be putting more in than required and it’ll then spit out the excess. It should then not spit any more out. A few ml excess will be enough for it to push it out. Only fill with wheel up in air too.
  13. You can access the air screw from the left of the bike easy enough. Just look through above the case and pipe and you’ll see it. A long flat head screw driver helps. Sounds like you have gone in the right direction. As the weather warms up and air becomes less dense you’ll probably find it gets better as the setting you have now will be made to feel slightly richer by higher air ambient temperature even though you change nothing more with physical settings. Come winter you generally need more fuel going in as the air is denser.
  14. Does it bog if the choke is on when cold starting? Could be you are right on the edge of lean when cold, no choke. It then bogs if you ask for throttle. However, once warmed up the motor doesn’t need as much fuel so you don’t get the bog. Don’t forget you have an air screw. You could try 1/8th to a 1/4 turn in (richer) to see if it helps?
  15. I’ve just gone through my 2012 front to back. I bought it on its visual condition (clean, dent/bash free). It needed tlc on bearings/grease. First job was simple stuff like wheel bearings, pads, chain and sprockets etc. These are high wear items and replaced anyway on even newer bikes if used a lot, plus a throttle cable as the old one snapped. Next was steering head and linkage strip, clean, re grease. Forks rebuilt. Clutch works fine so far but the main bearings went very noisy when it was stuck on its side revving it’s head off on top of a bank whilst I was at the bottom in a stream. Ever since then I had concerns. So....I stripped the motor and replaced them. Piston and cylinder looked good so went back in. All easy enough to do and without special tools. Just took my time. Care and read up/watched you tube how to vids. Now it feels great. No rattles or rumbles. Everything works like new and will hopefully stay that way for some time. Doing all this would cost a fortune in a shop but to do yourself is free plus parts. All parts have been genuine. Cost around £300 I reckon but the bikes so much better for it and feels like a much newer model. Get jobs done on lockdown and be ready for when you can ride properly again!!!!!!!
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