I bought a 2.9 used but like new. When I first pulled the air box, the rear threaded inserts were starting to pull out. I assumed that the original owner had just overtightened the mounting screws but am now thinking something is out of alignment. Over time it has gotten worse and some cracks started. It was getting to the point where an air leak may start so I bought a new box.

When trying to fit the new box, it hit the shock spring and the rear inserts were about 1/4" misaligned with the mounting tab. I did a little bending of the front frame mount and the rear mount but it still is not a great alignment. Looking from the rear, it looks like it should rotate counterclockwise a few degrees. I could tighten the screws as is but do not want to overstress the inserts.

Has anyone had any issues or experience like this?

Hi i have a 05 290 and when i first pulled the airbox off and re fitted it, i had the same as you,but could get the screws in with a bit of playing around.I did,nt feel comfortable thinking i might strip the brass inserts,so i enlarged the two holes in the rear supporting bracket and now it fits like a glove.No doubt some might say you should,nt have to do this,but it makes life easier.

PS only undo the rear jubilee clamp[ nearest the airbox] leaving the rubberhose still conected to the carb and ligthtly oil the airbox outlet when refitting.

Use a heat gun to make adjustments for a good fit!

Two good ideas. I assume the box is PP or PE. With a heat gun do you heat and then push/ pull into position? Is there any warning before you overheat and blow a big hole?

Have a pratice on the old box you changed - nothing to lose

I'm not really sure the composition, but I was surprised that I really did not have to get it all that hot. Before the material gave any signs, I was able to work an area using the ball end of a screwdriver to gently work it to properly accomodate the rear frame tube on the later model, which straightened the box right up! Helps with the rear mudguard fit too as the box stays close to the frame!

Be careful!

Copemech

I did a little experimentaion with the old box and came up with a few questions on technique. In the process of forming, I managed to scar the surface ..probably some from a rough pusher but some from pulling apart of the surface and maybe too much heat. It is the bowl like area next to the shock so I may need to use a spoon for shaping.

Did you heat and then push or did you heat and push at the same time? (It seems like concurent would provide feedback on proper heating but may be difficult to carry out in limited space and 3D geometry.)

Did you try to localize the heat to the specific area or maybe to a 2X area so the surroundings would "help" the forming?

Did you preheat the whole box..like maybe in an oven at 140 F? This seems like a good idea but I plan to run he bike today and would not like the air box to blow up in the oven tomorow while heating. My wife probably would not like that.

Thanks,

Dan

Now I think about it, I don't think I even used the heat gun, but rather the hairdrier! Took a while to get hot which allowed the heat to spread.

I was being cautious and just kept applying pressure while rubbing back and forth with the ball end of a craftsman screwdriver untill I got some movement. Then the material stayed a bit soft for a while by the retained heat. I did not need much.

I have never seen one hit in the shock area though.

Mounting the box and stress relieving the mounting tab areas may help too. Getting a good fit to the muffler.

A hair dryer did not seem to be hot enough but a heat gun on low worked. There was a certain smell that occured when the plastic was hot enough to move so I did find a temperature indicator. I guess it was starting to cook. I stayed conservative on the heat. The only issue was a pushing or smearing of the surface where I pushed on the plastic. It is not a visible area so cosmetics were not important. Thanks for the heat gun idea and the idea to try it on the old box.