My son has took the step of starting trials and we have managed to get a really tidy 125 (02) off of ebay for

My son has took the step of starting trials and we have managed to get a really tidy 125 (02) off of ebay for

Copemech,

many thanks, loads for me to read thru there! will try the steam cleaning as the first step. Never heard of that technique before but it sounds logical.

Struggling to get a hold of the fuel mix ? Whats the ratio or volme in uk for petrol to oil ??

Also, have given the bike a good look over today and whilst practicing balancing on a light hill, noticed some play/knocking on the front set up. Thought it was the steering head bearing or maybe the forks at first, but traced it to the front disc. With the front brake on, the pads are holding the disk solid but the disk itself is moving on the hub bolts. I assume this has never been replaced and the holes have ovaled off hence the movement? Should their be any play there or should it be solid ??

Rob

What you have on the front is a "Floating Disk" it is supposed to be that way.

Not sure of the reasons or benefits for it but that's what is also on my 2000 2.9 Sherco.

fuel mix I run is 80:1 full synthetic oil. Seems to be the most popular in 250 and up, not sure about 125's.

What you have on the front is a "Floating Disk" it is supposed to be that way.

Not sure of the reasons or benefits for it but that's what is also on my 2000 2.9 Sherco.

fuel mix I run is 80:1 full synthetic oil. Seems to be the most popular in 250 and up, not sure about 125's.

You see, Zippers nuts are a bit looser than some, but he is basically correct as there is some clearance there that may be noticed when stationary. Do be sure to inspect the retaining bolts on both front and rear discs though, and be sure they have some locktight(blue) thread sealer on them. Keep snug, yet do not overtorque these small bolts.

The 80:1 ratio is widely accepted, using good synthetic oil. As an easy out, you may run the Yamalube 2R semi-synthetic which seems redily available from Yamaha in a pinch.

80:1 = 62.5ml per 5L as i figure, check that quick figure, as I am still having a metrically challenging hangover! Ha!

Unless the rear pucks are saturated with oil or something they may well come back to life. The biggest difference from the later bikes is the dual pot front caliper as compared to the newer quad. The dual still works, and I would clean it as well, the same way!

After the things dry, you may see an immense change in performance, and if they start making noise, this can be even better! Then they are working!

All,

many thanks for the advice. Have had a go at bleeding the rear first (seeing as the guys said he had done it). Got to the airbox and found a bodged cross threaded allen bolt! No way he had bled it! Spent 10 mins and already it is better. Will try the steam clean as that sounds a good step forward and will spend a bit more time bleeding all of the system (just done the caliper end).

Front disk is a wierd one. Have "floating" discs on my Ducati but these are more a connector between the hub assembly and the rotor. I have no play on these. The Sherco definately has loads of pay that I would say is excessive. Am planning to have a look this weekend. My hunch is that they holes have gone oval over time as the play is definately at the hub point. I would be surprised if the amount of play is "normal".

The play is definatly normal.My 04 seems exessive,but i believe it like that to stop the disk from fracturing when brake is fully on and front shocks are then fully compressed (like maybe a heavy landing)Sounds wierd but somebody will no doubt tell me i am a k**b!

The play is definatly normal.My 04 seems exessive,but i believe it like that to stop the disk from fracturing when brake is fully on and front shocks are then fully compressed (like maybe a heavy landing)Sounds wierd but somebody will no doubt tell me i am a k**b!

Hi,the discs really do move,i've a Mont,my inlaws have Beta,Gasser,and a mate has a Sherco,they all have loose discs,don't worry,just ride!