I have a TY250D that someone else 'restored' and cosmetically it looks the business. I have sored a few issues with it and decided to fit a Kevlar clutch as I know the TY175 had clutch problems and heard that the TY250 was the same. I fitted a Kevalr cluthc in my Honda it it cured all it's problems. Anyway, I stripped the clutch down to find that whoever rebuilt the engine didn't bother to recondition the clutch basket which is badly grooved. In taling the clutch hub off, my supposed 'specail holding tool' broke the clutch hub so I now need to find another one.

I noticed when I got the clutch in to the washing tank that the clutch steel plates are not completely circular. I have not come across this before and I would like to know if there is a particular way around or position they have to be in when I reassemble the clutch?

Any ideas on the tracking down a clutch hub would be good too!

Damage usually happens when the clutch has been incorrectly assembled and the washer has been left out! On reassembly make sure the inner and outer baskets are free to rotate and not locked together. When fitting the plates make sure the offset "nipple" goes in every 60 degrees, so the plates will be in the 12,2,4 o'clock positions etc. Also check that someone has not left the ball bearing out that fits between the 2 clutch push rods. Apply ATF to both steel and fiber plates during assembly. Finally check the screw on the flywheel side is engaging in the the clutch actuating shaft (you will see it lift a little as you adjust). Finally fill the case with ATF and try it. If the bike has sat for a long time the plates may be DRY and the clutch will not work until the engine and oil are hot, this could take up to 1 hour before it works correctly. Keep working the clutch to get the oil between the plates and eventually it will work normally!

Tony

Thanks for the information Tony, the damage occurred because I was using the holding tool incorrectly, so no-one to blame but myself!

Cheers,

Jim