I competed in my first trial last weekend on the TL320. I managed to make a grand mess of the event, and found that I killed the engine in nearly every section. Never had that problem in all my practice on level ground, but there was little level ground at the trial!

A couple of the old timers suggested that I lower the gearing on the bike. Several people independently commented that the bike seemed to be geared rather high. Since my existing rear sprocket is looking well-worn, I suppose this is a good time to consider a gearing change.

So what gear combinations work for those of you competing on TL320s?

13 tooth on the front, 38 tooth on the rear.

What gearing are you running then ?

Martin

i`m running 13/38 stock gearing like martin said.if you are stalling out in the sections you must not be using the clutch? most sections i ride in 2nd gear on the 1 line if it`s really tight i`ll use 1st gear.if you go too low on the gear it kills the rideabilty of the bike.learn to use the clutch more in the sections and you`ll be able too slow your speed down when you need to

My current gearing is 13/39. To be honest, I never thought the gearing was too high when I was learning. Actually, I always thought it was perfect . . . and I'm still convinced that it is.

I was tinkering with the bike this evening, and discovered my problem: I had an intermittent vacuum leak downstream of the the carb. The boot that connects the carb to the intake tube was cracked. I suspect the weight of the carb was flexing that tube and causing a vacuum leak every time I rode over a drop. That makes sense, since the engine usually died at the bottom of some sort of drop.

I knew that boot was in poor shape when I bought the bike. I ordered a new one long ago, and it wound up back-ordered. It finally arrived long after I'd buttoned the engine up and started riding again. It's been sitting in my tool box waiting for the next time I opened up the clutch cover. Guess what's happening in my garage on the weekend?

I'll give the current gearing another try after I fix the vacuum leak. If I still like it, I'll probably order another set of the same gears. Martin, do you carry 39 tooth rear sprockets, or just 38s? (not like I'd be likely to notice the difference!)

Edited May 21, 201016 yr by qcowboy

if you are stalling out in the sections you must not be using the clutch? most sections i ride in 2nd gear on the 1 line if it`s really tight i`ll use 1st gear.if you go too low on the gear it kills the rideabilty of the bike.learn to use the clutch more in the sections and you`ll be able too slow your speed down when you need to

I do pretty much the same: 2nd gear unless it gets really tight or really steep. That's always worked well . . . at least until the vacuum leak grew worse.

I need to work on my clutch skills too, no doubt. Actually, I need to work on my clutch itself first. It's really stiff. I rode in a class of two vintage bikes on the weekend. (I got second place, despite all those fives! ) When the class was over, my competitor was one of the people who suggested a gearing change. He also invited me to try his Honda 125. It was a lovely little bike, completely sorted, with the lightest clutch I've ever felt. I've ordered the same clutch lever and perch he was using, and I'm going to try stepping down to three springs rather than four, and see how the clutch feels. No doubt it will help.

don`t go to 3 clutch springs it will slip!when you have the clutch cover off to fix the carb boot make the clutch arm inside the cover longer.with a longer arm and 4 springs you `ll have a 1 finger clutch with no slipping..don`t forget to lube the cable...

don`t go to 3 clutch springs it will slip!when you have the clutch cover off to fix the carb boot make the clutch arm inside the cover longer.with a longer arm and 4 springs you `ll have a 1 finger clutch with no slipping..don`t forget to lube the cable...

I've already extended the actuator arm by about 1/2 an inch. I made some progress last night by re-adjusting the actuator at the bottom end. I'll take any progress I can get, but it is still nowhere near a one-finger clutch. I'm hoping a clutch lever with needle bearings to pivot on will make a difference.

some thing is wrong with your bike.i`ve done the arm mod and 4 springs to 6 bikes now and all of them have a easy pull.do you have the right springs???

I took the clutch cover off last night and verified that I have only four springs. I have no idea how to determine if they are the "right" springs, since they have no markings. I understand that the springs are available in soft, medium and hard, but I've never actually seen them for sale.

It does appear that the actuator is rubbing on the housing it sits in. Maybe that's part of my problem. There doesn't seem to be any method of centering the actuator inside its housing. Am I missing something, or is it supposed to rub the sides? I polished the inside of the housing last night, and the outside of the actuator where they rub. Haven't reassembled yet to determine whether it made a difference. (Actually, I got motivated to strip the bike down and clean it thoroughly, so the bike is in a hundred parts on my garage floor right now. The smell of solvent pervades . . .

I'm curious what kind of gear lubricant you all are using. The previous owner told me he used ATF, and I've continued to do so. Should I try switching to some sort of oil in hopes that it will better lubricate the three ball bearings and the actuator housing?

i was going to ask you about the ball bearings.older covers didn`t have them,they just let the arm ride up the ramp.i use 80/90 wt. honda gear box oil in all off my bike .no problems in ten years ..just change it went it starts to get milky looking..hope this helps...

i was going to ask you about the ball bearings.older covers didn`t have them,they just let the arm ride up the ramp.i use 80/90 wt. honda gear box oil in all off my bike .no problems in ten years ..just change it went it starts to get milky looking..hope this helps...

SWM x 7, one for every day of the week or a you trying to corner the market ?

don`t tell anyone but i have 11 of those swm`s trials,mx,and enduro.also have 2 canam wantbe swms..it`s a sickness.....johnnyb

There are 4 different spring types available from ROTAX-

hard, medium, soft, and softer

DO NOT USE 4 SPRINGS

I used 6 springs = 4 x soft with 2 x medium

any combination of softer springs than this and the clutch will slip

These springs are available from ROTAX new.

Also use EP80/90 gear oil , the gearbox and gearchange is much smoother

Also fit a new cable when the old ones feels stiff, and lubricate cable EVERY trial

with the correct graphite spray lube- these jobs will make the clutch half as light.

Edited August 4, 201016 yr by pedronicman