Hello everybody,

A Fantic 300 front brake plate has been recently sold on ebay for 375

Hello everybody,

A Fantic 300 front brake plate has been recently sold on ebay for 375

hi stefano, i think the 300 frt is definitly better although the std one can be improved by enlargeing the axle hole by 0,2mm. problem is that the automatic adjustment you get on the 300 has to be done the manually on a 240 by loosening and re centering

i bet the seller was happy....i have 3 myself .....

lee

theres now 2 more on there. One at 350 pounds or best offer and one with a wheel

guys you wuill ruin the prices with so many dumping offers!

Yes, yes...but rather than paying 350

Edited August 12, 201016 yr by Andy
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I think you should be able to buy a complete running,riding 300 for 375

Edited August 12, 201016 yr by htrdoug

A YZ front brake works quite well , (don't know about the spoke count vs. a fannie though...) and the xr100 front end that I grafted onto the ty80 will do stoppies without a problem ! (much to my 11 yr olds disbeleif !) But if you enlarge the axle shaft hole to about 16 mm , run good shoes and tighten the axle etc. with the front brake applied snuggly , the stock 240 will do stoppies too . And if it's still not enough for you get you shoes relined and arced as close as possable to the drum ...

And Stefano ???? you making another batch of 240 silencers ??? let us know !

Cheers , back to work now ...

Glenn

This thread was closed some time ago but i'd like open it up again and ask for some setup details of the 300 brake plate.

Setup:

1) To centralise the brake shoes on a 300 brake plate first undo the lock nut on the brake plate. Next apply the front brake and whilst doing this tighten the lock nut.

2) Undo the lock nut and ride the bike with the lock nut undone.

The two above examples have been tried by me on my 240 which is fitted with a 300 brake plate. The problem with setup 1, is the brake isn't any better than slightly modified standard 240 brake plate. setup 2 makes a massive difference and works brilliantly. However the cam on the 300 brake plate moves forward and stays partly forward when the brake has been applied, so your then riding with the front brake slightly on which is not good.

Are the setup points above correct 1 and 2?

I've been looking at the cam on the 300 brake plate and think that a rubber insert to push the cam back into its full realease position could be a way of riding with the lock nut undone all the time. Any views or knowledge on this?

my brake plate cost less than £50 about 1-2yrs ago

Edited April 3, 201115 yr by spud1968

This thread was closed some time ago but i'd like open it up again and ask for some setup details of the 300 brake plate.

Setup:

1) To centralise the brake shoes on a 300 brake plate first undo the lock nut on the brake plate. Next apply the front brake and whilst doing this tighten the lock nut.

2) Undo the lock nut and ride the bike with the lock nut undone.

The two above examples have been tried by me on my 240 which is fitted with a 300 brake plate. The problem with setup 1, is the brake isn't any better than slightly modified standard 240 brake plate. setup 2 makes a massive difference and works brilliantly. However the cam on the 300 brake plate moves forward and stays partly forward when the brake has been applied, so your then riding with the front brake slightly on which is not good.

Are the setup points above correct 1 and 2?

I've been looking at the cam on the 300 brake plate and think that a rubber insert to push the cam back into its full realease position could be a way of riding with the lock nut undone all the time. Any views or knowledge on this?

my brake plate cost less than