January 14, 201214 yr Has anyone ever snapped the 10mm sump drain bolt, I hand tightened it them gave it a nip with racket and it's snapped, stuck in and half way down the thread. Any idea's. Young lads was going to be using it in a trial tomorrow so you can imagine how p****d off he is.
January 14, 201214 yr Has anyone ever snapped the 10mm sump drain bolt, I hand tightened it them gave it a nip with racket and it's snapped, stuck in and half way down the thread. Any idea's. Young lads was going to be using it in a trial tomorrow so you can imagine how p****d off he is. I once effected a temporary repair by dropping the sumpguard and sandwiching a bit of plastic between guard and whatever I used to fill the hole with. Even easier nowadays that we have silicon seal. Take oil to top up and you should get him out tomorrow.
January 14, 201214 yr Has anyone ever snapped the 10mm sump drain bolt, I hand tightened it them gave it a nip with racket and it's snapped, stuck in and half way down the thread. Any idea's. Young lads was going to be using it in a trial tomorrow so you can imagine how p****d off he is. I have a Sherco myself and have experienced the same problem. I have taken a T-40 Torx bit and placed in the unbracoopening. Since the aluminium plug i soft (aluminimu) you can gently hammer the bit to the bottom off the exiting unbracoopening.Then you can unscrue the plug easely. Hope this will work for you.
January 15, 201214 yr Not quite sure what you are on about? There is a 6mm allen head screw used to drain the gearbox below the shifter. If you have managed to snap that off down near the threads, then it should be easy to remove once you get the engine out and the cases split!
January 15, 201214 yr Climber I think the problem is a steel drain bolt not the aluminium filler plug if we are talking 2t not 4t? Are there enough threads left exposed inside for the broken drain bolt to catch? If so then an extra drain washer might keep the oil in without the broken drain bolt coming up against the snapped portion. Just to get you through tmrw, or even a tapered dowel, or if desperate then the dried up left over conical plug from inside your silicone tube nozzle. If the broken bolt spins freely then a reverse helix drill with a long shank sounds like the next option. Good luck
January 15, 201214 yr Author There was remaining bolt left in that could have been sealed up for the day. He got a shot of a another bike for today but if there wasn't a spare bike we would have gone down this route. Tonight though we drilled a hole in the middle of remaining bolt tapped a Torx in and unscrewed it. I was thinking it was engine strip down job so thanks to you all for your advice. You saved me a fortune. Edited January 15, 201214 yr by fatbastard
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