hello any body fitted the friction plates? ive carefully ajusted the clutch. but the grub screw is nearly all the way in to ajust it. i gess the pack is thicker then the all metal plates would i be ok in taking the last outer plate out not the friction plate the metal 1 that goes on last so may be get more ajustment? for got to say the pull rod is the correct lenth and new ball in place.

Edited July 5, 201412 yr by bondy

I had the same idea when I fitted the friction plates from In Motion on my 159 T350, but it caused the clutch to slip at higher speed in the upper gears.

I must mention that the clutch springs can't be adjusted with a nut on my bike, it's got the cup and pin system.

mines the 198A later model theres a grub screw in the center as well as the spring nuts the problem is the center ajuster grub screw it as to be more or less all the way in to touch the push rod and ball. there are enough threads to tighten the out lock nut but i just want to get advice as ive never come across this before the push rod is the correct lenth i will doubel check also i think the friction plates may be a thicker pack to the all metal and may be that the cause off the ajustment.

Shouldn't really be a problem where the screw is as it only adjusts the clearance between clutch centre and push rod. Should be set to give a couple of mill free play at the clutch operating arm. Differential between slip and drag is then set up on the clutch springs (nut variety not cup and pin).

hello i have sorted it i hadnt checked the op Arm the ball was well worn lucky i had another with a good ball i know tou can put new ball in the end off the clutch Arm but ive never dont it so not sure. clutch is set up as best as i could get it. seems to be ok everthing is new so needs runing in. thanks guys for your help.