Time for new steering stem bearings.The pullers in my toolbox won't get at the tiny outer races tucked into the head of my 2011 tr280.The engineers didn't even leave enough room to get a punch in there to whack it out.Anyone?

If you are defintely going to replace then the most reliable is to run a bead of weld right around the cone in the center of the bearing face, as the weld cools the cone will just drop out with no damage to anything provided you keep the weld on the cone and not weld it to the stem !!!

Either stick or Mig work just as well, don't use gas welding.

This is a common technique particularly uselful on large bearings that require a lot of pressure to move them.

It works because the cooling weld bead shrinks and causes the bearing to do the same.

Good luck

Or you can get one of these ... http://pitposse.com/strare.html

I've got one of each , for different bikes , makes life easier

Glenn

On most bikes there is sufficient lip on the top of the outer race to knock it out with a steel bar from above. Certainly the case with GG and Shercos.

Yes, on most bikes you can get to the edge of the bearing cone with one of those tools or a drift. But not on the Ossa. The genius who designed that part of the bike never considered how to change the bearing. I'm with OzThumper - welding is the go. Run a bead most of the way around the inside surface of the cone and wait for it tool cool. It should just drop out by itself. If not, you could weld a piece of rod or bar to it and yank it out.

Bad design by Ossa (but the Honda Goldwing has the same problem and same solution).

Chris.

Thanks for the replies.A bead of weld did it.Dropped right out.I have a 2001 Goldwing and was able to get a drift on it when i went to tapered roller bearings.

Hey, nice job with the mig. Glad you got it sorted. And I'm happy you managed to squeeze in a pic of your 'wing! Mine is a 1995 model (250,000km on it now) and it came with tapered head bearings but had the same issue as the Ossa. Looks like we both ride the heaviest bike in world and the lightest bike!

A bit late for my post since you have now replaced the bearing but here goes anyway.

I have seen quite a few bearings in a similar state to yours, and sometimes even nearly completely seized due to lack of frequent greasing or over zealous use of pressure washer.

Quite often there is no need to replace them, just a good scrub with 2 stroke mix and a tooth brush, dry and repack with grease. Repeat this a couple of times at a few hours riding intervals and 90% of the time the bearings wear the rust off and work fine.

Frankly this is a problem area for Ossa from the sound of it. they grind and grinch even when new bearings have been inserted. I am thinking of tapping a grease nipple to ensure the whole thing is greased up tight.

Thoughts?

It would be simple to remove one of the bolts that secure the cdi unit and retap it npt for a grease nipple.

I stuck a nipple on my 2011 by using the CID holes as suggested by ric, worked a treat, keep meaning to drill my 2013 for tegu same but haven't got around to it yet.

Thanks for the replies.A bead of weld did it.Dropped right out.I have a 2001 Goldwing and was able to get a drift on it when i went to tapered roller bearings.

HI Ric h, A very steady hand with the MIG well done, it is not easy being that neat when trying to move the gun in a circle, Full marks for that, for others less proficient (like myself) the technique works just as well even if the weld looks like Pigeon S...t !!!!