I am looking for a way to restore the cylinder head on my 183 Sherpa 350 to the original look I.e. light grey as it cane from the factory and keep it that colour with something like a clearcoat. Any suggestions ?

I'm planning to do the same, but leave the surface untreated, because I'm afraid a clear coat might turn brown from the heat.

As long as you don't ride in salty conditions, aluminium protects itself with a nice patina i.m.o.

Vapor blast!

Bead, vapor blast or acid clean. Coating will greatly reduce surfaces ability to transfer heat to air.

I had a nice effect while blasting with glas perls, done before engine rebuild:

Vapour blasting is the best way to get a finish exactly as it came out of the mould, I had the cylinder & head on my YZ465 done a couple of seasons ago & it still looks like new.

Beadblasting leaves a surface that is very prone to showing fingerprints etc but vapour blasting doesn't seem to

as said vapor blasting is the only way to go in my option i had a barrel beed blasted and way to harsh ended up painting it. i had another engine vapor blasted what a top job. hears a photo.am having another 1 done soon.

Thanks for the input. I have found a vapour blaster close to home and will take it there. The photo above is exactly what I am aiming for. Was the head steady painted or plated when new?

You can get the same results as vapour blasting by blasting with aluminium oxide and then blasting with glass beads, the aluminium oxide gives a clean matt finish ideal for painting but marks easily if left unpainted. The glass beads peen the surface to a silk finish that does not mark and can be left bare the same as vapour blasting. Vapour blasting uses glass beads but they are suspended in water, the only advantage of vapour blasting is that the item does not need to be degreased and cleaned as thoroughly so saves a lot of time in commercial application (but the setup cost is about £25,000). Use medium aluminium oxide and glass beads for sand cast items and fine for smooth or diecast items.

Loads of useful info here http://angloscotabrasives.co.uk/

the headsteady above was painted in hammerite i have a new 1 think it's just steel i will have it semi bright nikel plated when i take some other bits there's a local place to me that does nikel plating. i will have a peice welded on the under side to strengthen it.

both 250 and 350 headsteady

Bondy, Nice pictures, we don't see hardly any B models around here let alone

198B don't think they were imported to the states.

I guess the thing interesting is the apparent difference?

Did the 198 s have a 64mm stroke?

Help

Larry