I have just bought a 1965 Fred Hardy built Tiger Cub to get into Pre 65 trials in addition to the twinshock stuff I'm doing.

I have a few questions (I promise I have searched previous threads first):

Oil - The bike came with "20w50" written on the tank next to the filler in the top frame tube. This is a custom made (by Fred) frame and I have no idea of oil capacity or what type to use. Various threads here and elsewhere suggest "Never use synthetic", "Always use synthetic" "Only use mineral" etc.

I understand that there are three oils (Engine, gear and chain case) I have managed to find some information on capacity for gear and chaincase (half a pint from memory) but again I'm unclear on which oil to use.

Also until my Workshop manual arrives I'm not sure where to locate fillers for the above (there seems to be one too many!), drain plugs and oil filters.

Now the bike is not standard, I know it has PVL ignition, "special" cams and a rebore out to 219cc from hand written notes by Fred himself; these notes state that he made this Cub for himself.

Rear suspension - I have Rock Shocks on my Fantic 200 and love them and I'd like to replace the existing shocks on the cub with something similar. The centre to centre length of the existing units is 14 and a half inches. I'd rather not go shorter but there seems to be a bit of a jump from 360mm (14") to 400mm (15 1/2"). The rake on the front forks is already quite steep for tighter turning and I'm concious that standing the rear end up too much might exaggerate that effect beyond where it's helpful.

Any guidance, help, pointers and questions welcome.

I read this back to myself and I sound like an idiot! I can do the usual service stuff on all my bikes but once inside the hot, oily thing in the middle I'm lost!

Edited January 17, 201511 yr by maggar

No idea on oil level in the frame but, if memory serves, there is a level plug for the gearbox and it is located concentric with the drain plug. Fairly sure there's a level plug for the chaincase but can't remember if you remove a casing screw or what.

Get Rockshocks, they are easy to extend with the various length ends they sell, or alloy distance pieces can be made up to extend them.

Hi I use 600 cc of semi synthetic in my frame any more when it gets hot and exspands. It comes out breather . 200cc of tqf in chain case and 200cc ep 90 in gearbox hope this helps stan

I tried putting 400mm shocks in place of 360s on my early Honda XL, it made the back end stand up like 'crosser and moved the chain too close to the swing arm due to the steepened angle. I'd say it's a no-go, too big a difference.

Thanks for the replies.

I'm still undecided about whether the 20w50 oil for the engine should be mineral, synthetic or semi but after Stan's reply I'm thinking semi-synthetic might be the best option.

I've ordered the TQF and the EP90 as well - thanks Stan.

Craig, surely the the angle of the swing arm isn't altered by longer rear shocks, that angle is dictated by the size of the back wheel (the ground to the centre of wheel being fixed) or by how much air in the rear tyre. I think!

The current shocks are 37cm I think I'll go with 38cm for the new ones.

For the moment my most pressing concern is all the oil questions - which oil, where, how much?

Edited January 19, 201511 yr by maggar

Hi Guys,

Longer shocks also makes the steering head angle steeper. Fact.

Regards Charlie.

Hi Guys,

Longer shocks also makes the steering head angle steeper. Fact.

Regards Charlie.

Yes, I realise that Charlie and it has me a bit worried as this Hardy Cub already has a steep angle on the steering head. I think it is the seat angle (rises towards the tank) that makes the bike look a bit low at the back) I'll try and post a picture....

Hope this works

Edited January 19, 201511 yr by maggar

Craig, surely the the angle of the swing arm isn't altered by longer rear shocks, that angle is dictated by the size of the back wheel (the ground to the centre of wheel being fixed) or by how much air in the rear tyre.

For the moment my most pressing concern is all the oil questions - which oil, where, how much?

Yes but if the shocks are longer you're effectively raising the height of the of the rear part of the frame in relation to the swingarm, lifting the position of the swingarm pivot and so steepening the angle.

As regards the engine oil I wouldn't fret too much about it, any branded 20/50 would do, it's more important to change it often than spend a fortune on the stuff. If you're running it in with new rings go for mineral but otherwise whatever you can get your hands on locally at a good price. Bear in mind that there's barely any stress on a trials engine compared to a road bike which runs for hours on end at much higher revs. As for volume, no idea but I'd probably fill the top tube till I could just see the level when it's warm, you only need to leave a bit of room for expansion / foaming. You need to be able to see the level so you know when it's using any.

Smart looking bike by the way.

Craig

Edited January 19, 201511 yr by craig10

Yep, understand that now, thanks Craig.

I'll follow your advice on the engine oil too.

Thanks everyone.

Maggar what I fitted to my C15 is an hourmeter from eBay it cost about a fiver ,has a wire you wrap around the ht lead.

Its ideal for monitoring oil changes and engine running time.just type in hourmeter and you'll find it,it's about the size

of a matchbox

Cheers the noo Brian

An hourmeter Broony? good job it's not a noisemeter in your case.

No fancy buying a decent silencer on ebay!

Maggar what I fitted to my C15 is an hourmeter from eBay it cost about a fiver ,has a wire you wrap around the ht lead.

Its ideal for monitoring oil changes and engine running time.just type in hourmeter and you'll find it,it's about the size

of a matchbox

Cheers the noo Brian

Thanks Brian, I've ordered one.