As in many clutch baskets there are rubber bushings with in that help with the engagement. Well one of my TY's has had a pretty loose clutch basket. I have searched high and low for a rebuild but alas I could not find anything. Never to be deterred by a challenge I decided to give this idea a go. I can't vouch for its durability but here goes nothing. 

 

Preface: I silicone mold parts. I can't stand paying someone for something i can do myself. With that being stated I decided to try silicone molding my own customer bushings in the clutch basket. 

 

Step one:

    I cut off the heads of the rivets that hold the clutch basket together and pushed them part way through the clutch basket to disassemble. Grabbed a PBR and went to town. I left the rivets in partially because I knew that i would be using that as part of the mold.

 

Then I put the clutch gear back onto the basket. and used some masking tape around the base of the basket for any overflow. You will notice the cracks on the basket. That's because I don't think I removed enough of the rivet. Woops. They are shallow cracks so i should be ok.

 

 

Next I mixed up my favorite silicone mold making material. oomoo 30.

 

 

Then I poured it in not worrying too much about over flow.

 

 

Sipped some more PBR and let it settle. I had a few other parts to mold and some left over silicone so I took care of that too.

 

 

I then drank several more PBR and went to bed. 

 

The next morning woke up to a predictably hardened silicone piece. I cut the individual bushings with a blade and wala there you have DIY bushings. 

 

So removed the silicone piece and cut away my bushings. Then I pushed the rivets the rest of the way out. 

 

 

I reused the little rubber bushings and there you have it. 

 

The bike is back together now all sorted from vintage days and much riding. The basket feels tighter but we shall see how it lasts. 

Questions that I have are. Will it last? Is it heat resistant? I am confident that it can take the oil no problem because i have used silicone in other areas similar to this. Will it take the shock? dunno....

 

Worst case scenario is I go back to the orignal bushings with some sort of modification to those. 

 

Happy trialing!

 

--Biff

 

 

I rebushed a TY175 basket that was pretty sloppy and used punched-out discs of insertion rubber (the discs are round in the TY175) and made new rivets. It got rid of the sloppiness but didn't make the slightest difference to the way the bike went. That was 35 years ago and those discs of insertion rubber are still going strong

Biff you sir are a genius!

A bit of a mad genius but a genius all the same

 

We shall give those new bushings a workout!

Tremendous I hope it works. I too dont trust or want others to do work I can manage. The use of the silicon has potential for quite a few jobs, where can I buy oomoo 30 (great name) or are there other makes?

Edited August 17, 201511 yr by sirdabalot

Biff old chap.  Can you make a silicon mold of Dadof2 head for us?  

 

Edited August 17, 201511 yr by billyt

Tremendous I hope it works. I too dont trust or want others to do work I can manage. The use of the silicon has potential for quite a few jobs, where can I buy oomoo 30 (great name) or are there other makes?

 

Art supply stores is where i can find it here. Its a 2 part 50/50 mix and takes about 12 hours to harden. Here in the states 2 pints cost me $26. There are plenty of others around but this is accessible for me and has a 30 min pot life so if I want to cast a mold of something i have time with some leftovers. 

 

My second mold there was for that little lever that falls off of the gasgas petcock. I took a new lever off of a petcock and now if i lose mine i have the ability to make extras. Saves me from buying a new petcock each time. 

 

Silicone doesn't seem to stick to anything other than silicone. I use a mix of fiberglass resin and carbon fiber to make parts. 

 

--Biff

Biff old chap.  Can you make a silicon mold of Dadof2 head for us?  

 

So i just ran through the 50 or so answers for this in my head. None of them make me feel like a good person. Not sure if I really want to start my Monday off that way. 

 

--Biff

Biff    It was going to be a gift for Dabster.   He could keep on his desk at work.

Biff It was going to be a gift for Dabster. He could keep on his desk at work.

Not showing yourself in a attractive light !

What a gift from one member to another is not a nice gesture?

What a gift from one member to another is not a nice gesture?

 

hahahahaha not even clutch basket rebuild and creativity is safe from the bust of Dadof2 cast from unknown sources. 

 

--Biff

When I last rode my ailing TY 250A around the yard I noticed that the clutch does not engage at all until the last 1/4" of the lever throw.(All the way released) Then it sort of grabs.   Is that a problem? or is it just out of adjustment?Something worn out?

3 hours ago, Tillerman6 said:

When I last rode my ailing TY 250A around the yard I noticed that the clutch does not engage at all until the last 1/4" of the lever throw.(All the way released) Then it sort of grabs.   Is that a problem? or is it just out of adjustment?Something worn out?

Yes

Maybe

Maybe

Hard to tell from your description what is causing the problem. Could be lots of things

On 4/27/2019 at 12:02 AM, Tillerman6 said:

When I last rode my ailing TY 250A around the yard I noticed that the clutch does not engage at all until the last 1/4" of the lever throw.(All the way released) Then it sort of grabs.   Is that a problem? or is it just out of adjustment?Something worn out?

Well you are going to have to look. Clutch baskets from this era were known to wear grooves in themselves where the plates ride. That can cause the plates to stick and suddenly break free. With this home made bushing idea it really caused a delay / slack feeling transitioning from coast to accel. 3 and a half years later its still working for me. 

--Biff