I've been riding on and off road for years and always used the clutch as an "off" switch when the bike started to "buck" due to low rpm.  I'd slip the clutch or down shift to get around it.  However, I've been reading on the forum that I should be able to do full lock turns without touching the clutch at all as the bike will not stall due to all of the flywheel weight.  My 2015 Sherco 300 starts to "buck" when I go very slow and I always jump to the conclusion that I need to pull the clutch in and slip it to keep turning.  Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks

Set up your carbs tickover and clean up the idle mix by adjusting the airscrew so that it will run clean and strong at low revs.

 

Set the idle speed when you have the bike in 1st gear with the clutch lever pulled toward the grip and set it quite high so that it will pull cleanly when doing slow speed stuff without dipping  the clutch.

I've only been riding about 45 years , And I've never heard of that idle speed adjustment method ....!

 Is it just me , or did Goofy come log in to your account ?

I think he's just saying 'set the idle speed with the bike in first gear and the clutch pulled in (i.e. not moving)' which is pretty typical. Otherwise if you set it in neutral, when you drop the bike into first, depending on how bad your clutch drags, the idle will fall quite a bit. 

I always fix dragging clutches  ! And that shouldn't affect clutch out riding .... ?

 Fast forward to easier riding, get a 9 tooth counter shaft sprocket.

A Sherco will buck and surge quite a bit when chugging along at idle. They do not have THAT much flywheel effect. Use the clutch for smoothing, only slight

 

I set my idle so it will chug along by itself on flat ground, even in second gear..

 

If you get into stalling problems, retarding the ignition timing a bit on the stator plate, like 3mm, can make a difference. Al;though I have not done this on the new ones.

 

 

My answer is use the clutch on modern bikes!

 

 

 

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/60494-throttle-control/

This topic might give some insights aswell

Edited June 14, 201610 yr by crazybond700

I rode a friends brand new 300 Sherco (with Flywheel weight) the other day and it was super smooth!

 

I would first do the following -

    1. Fit 9 tooth sprocket.

    2.  Fit a Flywheel weight.

    3. Adjust Idle so it'll still pull you along slowly and smoothly over uneven ground. ie Kerb, bricks, shale.(Taking into account your weight and rear wheel traction)

Edited June 14, 201610 yr by brentmain

Thanks to everyone for their input.  I'll try them out as soon as I can.

An local expert rider riding a newish Sherco engined 300 said recently he 'de clutches' (ie lever pulled in) most of the time in a section. 

 

 

! 

Well all I can add to that is my trusty 240 pro goes ring .....ding ....ring....ding .  And fine carb setup gives me the ability to go WFO from idle in 1st or 2nd and loop the bike .And she will rattle along at idle in in 1st or 2nd and do full lock turns as long as you want .I'm a old school NO -STOP rider , so that is how my bike is tweeked . Almost the only time I use my clutch in a section is to clear the ngine for a big hit if need be. 

 And tell them guys to sharpen their graphite !

 Glenn