Doesn't the V on the bp5ev spark plug just mean a v'ed out electrode

 

See here:

https://www.ngk.de/fileadmin/Dokumente/DE/downloads_not_used_in_download_area/ngk_code_zuendkerzen_de.pdf

Doesn't the V on the bp5ev spark plug just mean a v'ed out electrode

No, but I can understand where you're coming from. The EV, HV, EGV, etc, have a Gold Palladian central electrode with a flat firing surface.

Whereas a BP5EY would have a v groove on the firing surface end of the central electrode. As a marketing tool NGK decided to put the slogan "V Power" on the outside of the boxes that the EY plug were packaged in, just confuse matters.

Edited August 19, 201610 yr by model80

Ah that what it is a Y not a V thanks

Bought some once when I couldn't get a S in town didn't notice any difference in the running though

Whoa there!

 

Its a bultaco. Coils and condensers it may be but check you have a reliable fat spark first. If you havent try cleaning points and double chck you have a gap on them.

 

Big spark = problem in carb.

If the rain subsides a little I'll try and re-create and film it. So many possibilities!

Thanks for the help People.

I still would prefere just standard plugs, the expensive ones doesn't work better for two strokes in my personal experience, the super expensive plugs for racing are out of financel reach and the other high tech plugs are made through the demand of the car industry because the sdervice intervalls has been doubeld at least. Thus plugs with longer durability where needed which doesn't mean they work better!

 

If you don't have a bright blue spark whioch do even makes a noticeable noise on a standard Bultaco magnet and point's ignition you have an ignition issue.

 

If there is a blue spark than as Nigel Dabster already mentioned the carb or his surroundings are the problem,

 

 

Hi, Rain stopped so time to play. Just checking, Does everything look ok in this pic of the coil wiring.

Going to check the timing hasn't moved since I set it first. 

It's been stood for quite a while and then used quite a bit of a week so I suppose it's possible the mains or the seals have given up. Is there a way to check this?

Thanks for looking.

Neil

You may have just answered your own question. Seals are inexpensive and easy to do.

Timing had slipped. Why they don't put some timing marks on the flywheel I don't know. Put some tape on flywheel and crankcase and then used a cigarette paper to get the right opening point.

Fired easily and ran until warm and ticked over. I stopped it and tried again and all well.

I will see how things progress as there will be trouble with the seals at some point I'm sure.

Thanks for all the advice.

"Why they don't put some timing marks on the flywheel I don't know."

 

I made my own permanent timing markings on the flywheel. One at TDC and one at 2,6mm before TDC.

These correspond with the marking on the small aluminium piece I mounted in the top right of the flywheel casing.

 

Easy peasy.

 

 

Neil, as I see by your photos , no auto condenser under the tank as we discussed, I take it you have a new Femsa mess!!

 

Please do the electrics as we discussed.

 

Please don't sweat the seals.

 

Have a nice day.

 

Larry

Thank you for that. It's not my workmanship but as I bought it. I will get that sorted though.

Cheers

Neil

What are the green, red and yellow wires for?

Neil

Edited August 20, 201610 yr by netley

Thank you.

I'm reliably informed by "in motion " trials who have the original docs and also vintage m/c club that is a 1976 model.

Neil

red yellow lighting etc afaik