Gday all,

So I've been having trouble with the AJP front brakes on my 2013 300 factory edition. When I first got the bike the brakes were fine but felt abit spongy and weren't performing how I would expect. So I flushed them through with new brake fluid and thus seemed to work for maybe a couple of hours on the next ride and than they went to **** again. So I thought stuff it and gave the master cylinder and caliper a rebuild with fresh seals and bought some new pads to eliminate any problems. Well this seemed to create more problems than it was worth as now I can't seem to get any pressure at all. I've tried back bleeding, pressure bleeding and any other sort of bleeding method I know but can't seem to get them to hold any pressure. I can see any leaks anywhere and everything went together without issue so it has me stumped on what I'm doing wrong. Any help would be very much appreciated.

Cheers

Matt

Pull the lever in and secure it in that position with a cable tie, leave it overnight and try it again......

Try this. Put bike on a stand, remove reservoir cap, top up fluid, open caliper bleed valve, make a cup of tea, have a biscuit or two, have another cup of tea, ponder lifes cruel disillusionments, take a cup of tea to your bike and see if fluid is dribbling from the bleed valve. If not, repeat above till it does, then have a cup of tea to celebrate. 

First off I hope you did not get oil on the fresh pads. If you did they are ruined. So put the old pads back in until you get it bleed. Take the caliper off the bike and bleed it with a clear hose. Hang the caliper high and keep the m/c at the lowest point. You might have to stop and refill the m/c. Remember to put something between the pad s so the pucks do not push out. This is the best way to get all the air out. You can take the whole thing off the bike and hang it in your garage.

Then have a nice cup of tea. 

Cheers guys I will try all of the above and fingers crossed it works. New pads are still in the packet ... I've made that mistake before ?

Well after about 3 cups of tea and 1 beer I'm still no better off. The best I can do is probably .3mm of movement from the pistons with the adjuster wound all the way out. It does get slightly better with it wound in but it is still very spongy. I'll leave the lever held in over night and try again in the morning. I did notice It tends the squirt oil out of the reservoir when I pump the lever, is it normal to get back flow like that? 

Remember if you do the same thing over and over and get the same results, try a different approach.

Try this method, the only thing that worked for me when I had a similar problem on my CCM, I spent several nights after work mid winter in a freezing shed trying to get rid of the sponginess.

Take the brake pads completely out and then clamp the pistons fully home using a couple of G-clamps (this ensures that there are no air pockets behind), use gravity feed initially and just let the fluid slowly find it's own way through but then don't worry about being too gentle...use the standard method of pulling the lever then opening the bleed nipple but also add in several consecutive rapid pumps while the nipple is open but finish with the single press method when you start to feel more pressure.

Pop the pads back in and use the lever, initially it won't feel like there's any difference but keep going until the pads meet the disc and then 

This can be a real problem, the solution is to either take the bike to a bike shop and have the brake system vacuum bled or buy a vacuum pump kit yourself. Luckily I have a bike shop 5mins away from me where a mate who rides trials works and if I cant get a firm brake after a couple of goes myself, I take it to him and he does it in about 10mins. Google vacuum brake bleeding to get a better idea. The shop shouldn't charge you too much to do it if you have your own brake fluid etc-$20

Cheers Greg