As I'm getting older, I'm having more trouble working the clutch lever with one finger on my stock 75 RL250. I took two springs out of the clutch, added a new cable, and this helped for a couple of years but now having trouble again. Anyone found a mod that works?

Maybe extending the length of the arm inside the cover (not much room in there). or Has anyone tried a clutch cover off of a TM250? This would be more like a Beamish.

Is the TM250 cover the type that pulls on the pressure plate via a rack rather than using a rod through the mainshaft from the left side of the motor?

My RL250 had the rack type when I owned the bike but I never got to try the original set up to compare the 2. The rack type cover would allow you to extend the lever easier in theory

Wow, I've been doing it wrong for 43 years, good to know. I must have pioneered the one finger clutch!!!!

Check out Matrix Motor Sports  web site  and check out the clutch issue with these bikes.  He has allot of info on the clutch for the RL250 and what sounds like a good fix along with other ideas on the RL250.

Sam

Matrix has some good mods but on the clutch you change out 3 of the springs for lighter ones.

I've already removed 2 springs so I think I am close to the same as a Matrix upgrade.

The stock RL250 (U.S.model) had the TS250 setup with that plastic spiral attached to a very short clutch arm that catches a lot of dirt slung off the chain.

You have to clean it very often for it to work smooth.

On the TM250 motocrosser they moved it away from the chain. Like the Beamish Black engine.

My question, is this an easy bolt on or is there some modification need to be made. I think I need the cover, arm, thrust bearing, pinion and rack, but not sure if I need the clutch basket and cover.

Basket is the same, not sure about pressure plate.

Easiest way to find out is look on partzilla & select the pressure plate from the RL & it will show what it fits, if it doesn't fit the TM or TS with the rack then you'll know you need that as well 

If you post your question in here http://www.trials.com.au/forum/viewforum.php?f=16 a bloke called Greg Harding will probably be able to answer any question about the conversion. Here is one of his Suzukis

Used an Easy Clutch on a lot of my TY250's and TY80's.  Really helped the clutch pull.  

 

He says he has the fulcrum pin in the "easiest" setting, but actually that's the "hardest".

8 hours ago, oni nou said:

Sorry don't understand that logic.....the longer the bar is between the point of pivot[fulcrum] to the point of pulling the easier the pull will be eg a TY 175 clutch can be made to pull easier by adding an extension to the clutch cam[point of pivot/fulcrum] arm to give the easier pull.www.tyoffroad.co.uk sells one in the engine parts section ref Y0 17.

It's not just the distance from fulcrum to pulling point that influences the "lightening". It's the ratio of fulcrum-to-in-cable to fulcrum-to-out-cable. And moving the fulcrum to the right in the photo will make that ratio larger.

On 19/02/2018 at 10:38 AM, oni nou said:

Bike evolution is repeating itself ....I thought the reason people rode old twinshocks was that they thought that using the clutch with one finger and all the other modern techniques was for little girls [you will have to forgive me for this turbofurball ....boys will be boys, sorry].......completely confused ....they didn't even use to cover the front front brake lever in those days....just dump the clutch and use the throttle.

What’s wrong with using two fingers if you need to operate the clutch? 

Strip the clutch right down, thoroughly inspect all working surfaces such as plates, basket drum and hub. Remove any burrs, rough edges and check for high spots on the clutch plates. Measure each clutch pressure spring and compare. Test compression of each spring by either putting two facing each other in a vice and compressing by half and see if both measure same, check all the same way. Decide if you will be happy with deleting a couple of springs as this may cause unwanted slippage and even warping of the clutch plates. Replace the clutch cable as you seem to have been ok with a new one two years ago! Check the handlebar clutch lever pivot and pin for wear and replace if needed. Decide if another type and shape of lever might offer you more leverage and ensure everything is lubricated with oil and pivots are sealed with grease. Make sure the oil being used in the clutch is the best recommended. When reassembling the clutch get someone to rotate the clutch (cover off) and ensure it runs centrally and all the plates show no signs of out of alignment. Consider slipping some plastic tube/hose onto the clutch lever to cushion your finger, try to use two fingers if you are able. Hope this helps. I tend not to use the clutch once underway just bang up or down through the box, dog boxes are designed to take this method of operation, the clutch is just a convenient way of getting away from standstill; unless you’re Rossi using the clutch as a braking means! 

16 hours ago, section swept said:

What’s wrong with using two fingers if you need to operate the clutch? 

Perhaps nothing. On my Fantic 200 I flit between one-finger and two-fingers. I don't think there's any significant difference. But then, that's just me, and my riding is hardly a recommendation to anyone.