ffman

> So you want to reduce compression which will make the power softer, then reduce flywheel weight to make it quicker again? reducing the flywheel weight won't make it quicker, it will make the engine more responsive, but easier to stall. I have an XR400 for proper enduro, just i got the climber cheap, they're not worth much to sell, so i may as well make it so i can use it. Is it the kick back that breaks the starter, i assumed it was the effort required to turn it over.

In tandem with my other post on reducing compression, i read that some people also reduce the flywheel weight to make the engine more responsive. as i think i intend to do light enduro on it, this would be better. i see the flywheel is a multipart item. any advice on how to set about this ?

I recommissioned a climber 280 a few months back, and it starts and runs ok. I'm more into enduro and figure the climber would be fun for some lite enduro as i'm too old to start learning how to ride over cars etc I'm concerned about snapping the kick start off, the compression is fierce, and the motor too. i'd be happy to tone it down a bit and i think people have done this in the past. My neighbour has suggested make a plate form 3mm copper to go in between the head and the barrel. the water channels and O'rings make this a bit of a challenge. has anyone else done this, or know how it was done in the day ?

So further to my earlier post, I acquired a climber 280 cheap as it had been standing for a while and possibly messed about with, or stuck in a shed due to a fault. The clutch appeared seized, not a great surprise if its been sat around, so I stripped it and checked it over and all seemed good and free and clean. However, when I reassemble it, its locked solid. the clutch actuating arm moves and you can feel the springs against it, but you can't disengage it. after hours of fiddling about I tried assembling it with only 2 weak springs (cross flow rocker shaft spacing springs), and then it works ok but obviously not with the engine running. So I measured my springs they are 36mm free length, the genuine aprilia spares site seems to suggest genuine springs are 34.1mm length. is there ary trick here to getting this ok ? I made sure the tab washer was sat properly on the spines. Is the spring length difference likely to be the issue ?.

so I took the clutch side off and the key was present on the primary drive, so its a mystery. I can only think someone lost one during a rebuild at some timw. anyhow, ran it up and it seems ok (as much as it will be without an airbox and rear part of the exhaust missing) there is an issue however - see my new post.

ok - so the impact wrench spun it straight off :-) However, now I think about it and look at the diagrams, I can't see how either of the 2 keys shown, end up in the gearbox oil. There is a key each side of the crank, one side is the magneto and therefore dry, and the other side is the combustion side, so no way from there though to the gearbox oil I can't find any other key on the diagrams so I confused now. I guess i'll take the side off now I have the clutch off and have a look see - or do I just try and run it and see what happens or doesn't work ?

I have an air impact wrench, just not thought of using it. will give it a whirl this evening.

thanks for the reply - a little clarification if you can:- > from motoswm. not sure what this means > Yes, you can run without the counterweight, what do you mean as the counterweight - maybe this is obvious once I take the magneto side apart. > Either hold the flywheel, to lock the crank and remove the counterweight (std right hand thread). maybe this is part of my problem (I think the primary drive cogs are spinning free), but now the top of the clutch basket and the springs are removed, the clutch and the flywheel are no longer joined, so locking the flywheel would not appear to help me remove the clutch nut. > Or you can lock the crank directly likewise - I am trying to remove the clutch nut. I need to lock the chain or sprocket somehow and I wondered if there was a technique. I tried dropped an allen key through the chain near the sprocket, but it looked like it would snap with a lot of effort applied.

I haven't tried to start it yet. I suspect its from the primary drive gear, and without it, the engine would run but it wouldn't go anywhere. anyway - its part in bits so i'll continue to check it over is there a trick for getting the clutch nut off ?

I bought a climber 280 cheap for some fun and before I fire it up I thought I would change the oil. I found a woodruff key stuck to the magnetic sump plug which is a worry. So maybe that's why it was laid up and cheap ? I see from page 14 of the manual attached there is a woodruff key each side of the crank. In the picture the clutch/carb is nearest. The key the other side must hold the flywheel though its not shown, and I guess this is the dry side, so if they was in the oil it must be the clutch side ? Any thoughts. How do I get the pesky clutch main nut off - is there a trick, maybe jamming the chain ? thanks 242ccet282ccTLAprilia1994.pdf

> 238cc or 276cc, take your pick I was told 260 so that's in the middle ! How can I tell ?

I just acquired cheaply a bike the seller says is a 1991 Climber 260. Its needs a few bits and apart from ebay where else is best for info on these ? I need:- spark plug carb seat tank Seat and tank for 280s are cheap enough on ebay, will the 280 stuff fit a 260 (if indeed it is) ? What make and model is the carb ? Whats the recommend premix, like a 40:1 with a decent synth 2 stroke oil ? I figure this bike will be some fun in addition to the ensure bikes I have.