Firstly for me would be the above reply, failing that, there is an alternative, not ideal, but does fit.
I sourced a kick start lever off an '80's RD250 or 350 Yamaha, its way too long and will actually foul with the exhaust slightly, but more with your right leg when riding. But the pinch bolt on the spline design is far more robust in cast size to the TY one. I tried to heat bend it to shape better, but was just not quite right to kick on then. Go with the original!
Thanks Subanator I appreciate the reply. It's pretty hard to replicate the original, and it's most likely the best route to go. I'll check out the RD250/300 though as it may be easier to source out and I like the fact it's stronger.
Steve have you priced one from John Cane in the UK? I find it to be economical to buy from John compared with my local (Australian) Yamaha shop for TY175 kickstart assemblies.
Yes, thanks feetup. That's the direction I'll be taking although I was hoping someone had a stronger alternative. Once received here in Canada it will be close to $200. Not much choice in the matter though!
The TY80 kickstart will probably work fine if you can work out how to ride the bike without a right hand footpeg
Ah... funny guy. I was wondering about that as I hadn't seen one in person. It looks like I'll be stuck getting the TY175 kickstart, but it pains me...
Hi Bo - yes I did see that add, it's actually the reason I asked the question. That is off a TY80, not a TY175. So it fits, but does it fit well enough to be used...?
As I simply can't get myself to fork our the 200+ dollars for a new kick start on my TY 175 I have to ask the question - what are my alternatives??? Will any newer model kick starts fit, say something from a newer bike, different manufacturer etc? How about from the TY80? The TY80 kick start look much stronger, albeit a little shorter, and they are cheaper and readily available (at the moment at least). The TY 175 looks (and was) kinda weak...
The steering on that TY175 with the frame mods is as good as I have ever felt on a twinshock, so I have no desire to change the steering angle. I suspect that the fore-aft weight balance of the bike+rider also has a lot to do with the steering as well as the steering geometry.
Yes I do ride (other people's) moderns now and then and find that there are so many differences to a twinshock in how they are to ride, that I have trouble riding anywhere near the same standard as I can on a twinshock, so can't really comment on differences in the steering.
I think that the TY175 with the frame mods has better ergonomics than the standard TY175 because the handlebars are now higher and further forwards, which gives more room to move around on the bike, and the stance is slightly more upright. I am only average size but feel a bit cramped on the standard frame bike. A smaller rider may not find those changes to be a benefit.
The TY175 with the YZ125 clutch cover has a motor which has the bottom end from a 3H8 prefix motor (DT175E I think). The motor came with that YZ125 clutch cover. I haven't tried to fit the YZ125 cover to a TY175 motor. I'm only thinking it is a cover from a YZ125 because it looks the same to me as covers on late 1970s YZ125 (DEF) and IT175 (DEF), which lines up age-wise with the DT175E. Maybe the earlier YZ125 motors (ABCX models) had slightly different clutch covers that will fit the TY175. An easy way to check these things is to look up the part numbers for the clutch cover gaskets for the different models.
I will take a photo of the longer TY175 brake link and to avoid external photo hosting, will probably post it on the Aussie trials website.
Thanks for the quick reply.
Yes, the yz125 case is what I have been led to believe will fit the TY, but there are obviously different ones available. I will look up the gasket part numbers as recommended - that sounds like a sure way of tracking down the right cover. I saw this mod on a TY last fall and it looked very clean.
I wanted a steeper steering angle and for the bars to be further forwards but to avoid shortening the wheelbase. I added 25mm length to the top frame tube. To accomodate this, I bent the front downtubes at a point just above the front motor mounts (approximately the same distance from the ground as the front axle). This steepened the steering angle and moved the steering head forwards by approximately 25mm and slightly upwards, but did not move the front axle forwards or aft. Because of the change to the top frame tube, I had to make new front fuel tank mountings and relocate the HT coil.
With 340mm shockies in the standard position and TY250 forks fitted with the tops of the tubes flush with the top triple clamp, the steering angle was indentical to a standard TY250 fitted with 340mm shockies.
Of course since then the steering has become slightly steeper because I have extended the swingarm which has caused the back end of the bike to be slightly higher.
Hi feetupfun
Great information you are providing for everyone here! I have a 1976 TY175 and would like to undertake similar suspension modifications. I have a couple of questions - with the frame/head angle modification and the extended swing arm extension do you find the steering to be more along the lines of a modern bike, or would you suggest an even steeper head angle? Are you happy with the outcome? I'm assuming that you have ridden newer bikes... I've only ridden one newer (2001 Sherco) and really liked the geometry and how well my weight was balanced over the front end. It would be ideal to get a somewhat similar set up on my TY if possible?
Also, on the bike pictured at left with stock geometry I see you have swapped out the autolube setup and replaced the case cover. I have tried to do the same but the cover I purchased didn't quite line up - very annoying. Would you have any advise on how to get the correct case cover? What year/model I should be looking for? All the bolt holes lines up but one, and there didn't seem to be adequate space around the kick start area for a proper fit. Other than that the cover looked the same....
Thanks for your time and keep those TY175 posts coming! I'd like to see how you finished off the brake link as well if you have the time to post some more pics.
I realize it sounded like a daft question, but being new to motorcycles I'm trying to figure out a few things, namely the engine and carburetor. I have seen the pod filter set up and thought it was a very neat, tidy and simple solution. I like simple. As different people will take differing amounts pride in their machines I can see why an air box in a production bike is a must. If a manufacturer does not include the air box it's only a matter of time before one runs into problems. So, in theory if kept clean wouldn't a pod filter be a better solution than an air box?
Perhaps someone could explain the science behind an airbox, and why a simple air filter isn't adequate enough. I have a 76 TY175 and have read on the forums here that the stock airbox does not provide adequate flow and should be "opened up". After taking a close look at my airbox I agree it could benefit from some extra venting but am considering removing it all together in exchange with a filter - no box at all. As this seems all to simple I pause to wonder why it isn't more common place? Is there some science involved with the airbox or what??
As I'm in the same boat that you are/were I was wondering if you came up with any alternatives or just ended up shoveling out the cash for a new kick-start?
Thanks guys, and sorry - I should have said it was the pin on the knuckle that broke. I'll see if I can get it welded up as suggested. I've seen the knuckles for sale on their own, however they are vastly overpriced IMHO.
Hey Starky, the kick start boss pin has snapped off. I understand it's a common problem with the TY175's. It wasn't hitting the case or anything, it just snapped off due to my thunderous thighs... I've borrowed another one from a friend and can see busting it in no time as well. The bike is super easy to kick over however the design of the kick start is weak. So, I'm wondering if there are any alternative kick starts from other bikes available?
Has anyone found an alternative kick starter for the TY175? Mine is busted and I cringe at the thought of a replacing it with another weakly built copy. Also, being in Canada it isn't going to be cheap. Surely there is a way around this problem? Anyone had any success?
Thanks guys - I was finally able to sort the problem out. After many carb tear-downs I discovered the float bowl needle was sticking. So I was getting fuel into the float bowl, but then the needle would stick once the bowl was full. I'd get the bike going until the fuel in the bowl was all used up and then get no more due to the stuck needle. Very annoying little situation...
New to trials, new to motorcycles... My recently pruchased 1976 Ty175 has been starting easily and running well for a week now, however the last two times out it stalled out as it idled to a warm up. I start it with the choke out, wait to it getys to a nice steady idle then pop the chke back in and get on my way. Now it barely gets to a steady idle then stalls, and will not start again. The last time this happened (or last time I got it started) I immeadiately pushed in the choke got it in gear and tried to keep it running under throttle. No luck though, it quickly died. Any ideas - i tried a new plug by no change....
Kick start
in Yamaha
Posted
Thanks Subanator I appreciate the reply. It's pretty hard to replicate the original, and it's most likely the best route to go. I'll check out the RD250/300 though as it may be easier to source out and I like the fact it's stronger.
Steve