majesty320

Hi unfortunately it looks as my trials days are over because of a back injury, so I'm just curious to know what my 240 would be worth if I sold it stripped as it is now or should I spend money on it and rebuild it first

If you contact John at trail and trials uk, he has some origional seats with the yellow base.

Hi I am starting to rebuild the engine on my 240. I have 2 engines and intend to use the best bits from both, along with new parts. When I stripped both engines I came across some things that I found strange. Firstly one engine has a flywheel with a 26mm thread and the other has a 32mm thread. Secondly one has a kickstart shaft from what I am led to believe is a K-Roo and the other is standard 240, the K-Roo shaft has no groove for an O ring and so leaks oil when in use. So my questions to you are If I use the K-Roo shaft because it is stronger how do I stop the oil leaking along it, and which flywheel should I use? They are both in good condition, but I was told that the 26mm one is standard for the 240. Thanks in advance Mark

It seems to me that there is a catch 22 situation here, they dont get any work done because of interuptions, but could they be losing work because they dont answer the phone. Seems to me like a lose lose situation.

It seems to me that there is a catch 22 situation here, they dont get any work done because of interuptions, but could they be losing work because they dont answer the phone.

Hi I was wondering what people are using to remove the paint from engines other than blasting. I dont want to strip the engine other than removing the head and barrel as it was rebuilt nt long ago and im not doing a total resto but just want to tidy it up a little. I then want to repaint it but dont know which paint is best. I dont have access to a compressor so two pack paint are no use, I was thinking of one of the aerosol types but dont know which is suitable. Thanks in advance

Hi I was wondering what people are using to remove the paint from engines other than blasting. I dont want to strip the engine other than removing the head and barrel as it was rebuilt nt long ago and im not doing a total resto but just want to tidy it up a little. I then want to repaint it but dont know which paint is best. I dont have access to a compressor so two pack paint are no use, I was thinking of one of the aerosol types but dont know which is suitable. Thanks in advance

Hi Im starting the rebuild of my 240 and have done a really stupid thing, I stripped the bike last winter and put everything to one side really carefully. Ive put it all away that well that I cant find the book that I wrote offset measurement for the wheels-Hubs DOH!. Is there anyone out there that can help as I cant get the wheels rebuilt without this, and the bike wont be very good without them. Thanks in advance Mark

Hi the fly wheel cover on my 240 is cracked, it is weldable, but I was wondering if the cover off another model would fit so I could keep mine as a spare? Thanks in advance

Thanks for the replies guys will do some experiments cheers

Hi Im trying to start the rebuild of my 240, the person who owned it previously has extended the clutch arm, but its to long and effects the operation. Can anyone tell me the best length for it. Also I want to put the side stand back on but the bracket has been cut off, ground flat and painted. I have a new bracket to weld back on, but need some help with the position. It would be handy if someone could give me some dimensions and a reference point so I dont have to rebuild the bike first to get the position correct. Regards Mark

"E" should have gone to spec savers?

Ive seen the Majical spacers, but a bit to steep for me. Check these out they are cheap and you can stack them if you need more preload http://www.billetparts.co.uk/catalog/bultaco-parts-bultaco-suspension-group-c-24_47.html

Just spotted this on ebay, I know more or less how much it would cost to build this, but what do you think it will go for ? http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a1d62af03

As an average clubman rider how important is it to alter the foot rest position on my 240 I have it in bits and have bought some new footrests and a200 top yoke do I really need to alter the position of the footrests and will it make that much difference to a rider like me

Hi If what your saying is that the kickstart goes past the point at which it started, then this was a common fault. The kick start gear is only pressed onto the shaft and after years of kicking and abuse moves round on the shaft, A lot were that bad that the came forward and punched a hole in the casing, this was also common. If this is the problem there are two ways to fix it, either weld the gear on the shaft in the correct place and the grind away the excess weld or replace the shaft for a new one, Hope this helps. Also Mark

The heartening thing is, we all know someone that turns up with a completely standard (with 30 odd years of abuse) bike that wipes the floor with those that spend thousands on mods and modern parts, because as stated elsewhere, money can't buy talent!

OK (sandmseccy) I'm sorry if my response came across as a swipe at OWEN that was not my intention and I apologies if it did. As for being a purist you couldn't be more wrong as I have also tried to get Yamaha TY175 forks to work better and I have fitted period Marzocchi forks to a 250 Majesty as well as moving footrests etc. It's the fact that if you look around this site and see the amount of people who do ride these bikes in competition and not just for fun like yourself , and then try and justify fitting modern forks by using the excuse that they are cheaper and not fitted to gain an advantage. I know some them personally and £160 for a re-chrome or what ever for magical springs and dampers would just be pocket change, so their argument just doesn't stand up. As I said and Woody has said a similar thing there are other ways of improving the performance of the forks without going down this road. As for electronic ignition I think most people fit this to improve reliability, ask the boys who ride classic Brit bikes on the road why they fit it, Im sure its not to make their bikes go faster. Personally I can't see where It would be an advantage in the sections, It may be an advantage when your pushing your bike back to the car up that big hill because the condenser has blown again, but I may be corrected.

Here we go again Why dont you just buy a gas gas and put two shocks on it and fit the TY engine, surely that would still be in the spirit of twin shock trials, in your post you say a bit better. Modern forks aren't just a bit better, and before anybody says its cheaper than having the old one re-chromed and its not to gain an advantage, Talk to the hand because its b*****ks. If you fit new forks you have to alter the fork yokes, and adapt the forks to take some sort of torque arm. This all adds up unless you are a skilled engineer. So Im sorry but the its cheaper line does not stand up. That said the forks on a 175 are pretty poor but there are other ways of improving the 175 than fitting modern forks, unless your looking to gain an advantage that is.

Quote (Thanks for the input Mick but dont agree with you on the class issue i feel we need the 5 classes. Firstly to encourage more class winners to move up and give others a chance). Im quite new to trials, I only came to it as an adult. When I was younger I raced MX bikes in the AMCA. For your first event everybody started in the Juniors whether you were 14 or 65, as it was classed on ability not age. Once you had won a few events then you had to move up to the next class whether you wanted to or not, In the case of MX Seniors then Experts. Can somebody tell me why this type of thing is not adopted in trials, and why people who regulaly win the clubman class are not forced to move up to the experts. It would also improve their own developement as they would face more of a challenge and there-by become a better rider and also give others something to aspire to. This is only my opinion and may have already been tried and failed for some reason, if so I would like to hear why. Regards Mark

Hi all Your deffinately right the other pictures are of a 240 pro. I know this because I bought the 240 off him just before Xmas and recognise the ebay id and the pictures, looks like he couldnt be a***d taking anymore pictures. He seamed a decent guy though and quite knowledgable in his defence. Dont understand it myself as it just puts doubt in a potential buyers mind.

If they are the same as the mono trail and trials uk have them, and the fork brace as we'll. They had them on there stall at Telford, think you may find that JK Hirst have sold all there Yamaha stock as I've heard they may be closing. Just a rumour

http://www.themagicals.co.uk/category.php?id_category=17 look here

http://www.tytrials.co.uk/ ring these people they will tell what clearance to bore to, they did with mine but I cant remember as it was a while ago

Whilst checking through the 240 I bought before Christmas, I have noticed that the bolt that holds the top of the air box to the mount under the seat has snapped flush with the plastic. Has anybody had this happen to them, and if so what did you do about it? Can I drill it out and replace it with a stud? or will it screw out if I can grip it with something? I don't really want to buy a new air box as this will be expensive going off what Ive seen up to now of Fantic Parts. Cheers Mark