Check the fuel flow through the tap with the petrol cap on and off the tank
Check that the spring clip ( not the circlip) holding the needle in the carby slide is fitted correctly and not allowing the
needle to "hang" when the throtle is returned to idle
cheers
Gazza
Give yourself 20 points spring clip was damaged and needle was on the 5th groove not the 3rd, although i was pretty sure it still blocked the fuel of, maybe it doesn't when engine running with all the vacuum/suction the engine provides, anyway i'cant waste my time thinking about all that now I've got a bike to ride.....Thanks to everybody for all your ideas over the past couple of weeks.............jimm.
Spark plug wet still suggests flooding - I have a Mikuni carb that I have never been able to get right on my Montesa and symptoms sound the same - try this - before starting for first time - turn the fuel on until you are confident there is fuel in the carbie - then turn the fuel off and try and start it. If it starts let it idle for 15-20 seconds then work the throttle - if it behaves ok and stays ok until the fuel runs out then you have the same problem I do.
Now for the bad new - if I knew how to fix the problem I would be using the Mikuni now. I have tried jetting and levels and slide clip positions and still can't figure it out - can you borrow another carb from someone to try out?
Of course if the above is the case then you can simply buy a replacement carbie because at least you know what the problem is.
Bike is now in the local motorbike Guru's shed, therefore i'm expecting a miracle to happen within two days, i guess he will no doubt try all that has been suggested on here over the past few weeks, including slaving in a new/different carb. Can't really afford a brand new carb but i guess any make that is about the same as a keihin pe24 will do the job won't it??? what do you think do you have to replace like for like ??
Check the fuel flow through the tap with the petrol cap on and off the tank
Check that the spring clip ( not the circlip) holding the needle in the carby slide is fitted correctly and not allowing the
needle to "hang" when the throtle is returned to idle
cheers
Gazza
Fuel flow is fine with cap both on and of. As for this spring clip job i shall check that this week and let you all know how it goes it a good call lets hope its that, if its not does anybody want to buy a Honda?? its a excellent runner (honest)..jimm
Yes to fuel getting through, iv'e emptied the tank and flushed out with fresh fuel, done all the wiring checks stated in the manual, primary and secondary coil pulse generator and generator coils. Plug is always wet, yes to still a good spark even when it won't fire..............thanks for your ideas keep them coming..jimm oh yes and if i remove plug and spin it over a bit and let it dry out for a bit it will run again for a few seconds as per normal 3-4 seconds then back to cutting out....jimm
Yes to fuel getting through, iv'e emptied the tank and flushed out with fresh fuel, done all the wiring checks stated in the manual, primary and secondary coil pulse generator and generator coils. Plug is always wet, yes to still a good spark even when it won't fire..............thanks for your ideas keep them coming..jimm oh yes and if i remove plug and spin it over a bit and let it dry out for a bit it will run again for a few seconds as per normal 3-4 seconds then back to cutting out....jimm
When it won't go after the 6th kick is there still a spark? (cdi good)
Is the wiring all in good condition? ( once had terrible trouble with an XL185 engine because the pulse generator wire was worn.)
What is the plug like - wet with fuel or dry? ( over rich mixture )
What happens if you turn the fuel off, take the plug out & spin the engine over to clear any excess fuel? Will it start again?
In the opposite direction:-
Is fuel actually getting to the carb in sufficient quantities? (blocked fuel line, filter or fuel tap) Take the fuel lie off the carb and make sure the fuel floods out with the fuel tap open.
Yes to fuel getting through, iv'e emptied the tank and flushed out with fresh fuel, done all the wiring checks stated in the manual, primary and secondary coil pulse generator and generator coils. Plug is always wet, yes to still a good spark even when it won't fire..............thanks for your ideas keep them coming..jimm
You didn't reply on the "remove plug and check if wet" - yes please still do that.
Otherwise - now check for leaks between carbie and inlet - there are many ways to do this some people spray water, other spray fuel or LGP gas - whatever you use you are listening for a change in engine revs.
Finally see if you can borrow a CDI and see how that works - do this last as CDI's are not cheap
yes to plug being wet, as for spraying water /fuel between carb and motor i can't do this because it does not run for long enough 3-4 seconds currently. Thanks for the reply
I checked the float valve is doing its job and unfortunatley (for me ) it is, it cuts of the fuel supply when the float is at 19mm. This is the correct height from the manual. At a loss as to what to do next now has anyone else got any suggestions.........jimm
Yes and the needle blocks fuel when throttle is shut.......boooooo
I checked the float valve is doing its job and unfortunatley (for me ) it is, it cuts of the fuel supply when the float is at 19mm. This is the correct height from the manual. At a loss as to what to do next now has anyone else got any suggestions.........jimm
Doesn't sound like it has a chance to get hot and as he says it then won't start for the rest of the day.
When this next happens turn fuel off and remove the plug - then kick the bike over and check if fuel mix is being pumped out of the plug hole - if so it is flooding and loading the engine chamber with fuel - if so check your float level and make sure the the needle seat is blocking fuel when the chamber is full - from memory the Mikuni float level should be set using measurements upside down ( do a google search Mikuni float level) but you can test if the seat is sealing off the flow by working the float and either gently blowing through the fuel line or allowing fuel to flow through
This sounds like a good diagnosis, just to clarify when you say "make sure the the needle seat is blocking fuel when the chamber is full" you are talking about the float bowl/chamber being full and not the engine chamber, your diagnosis seems to make sense as we all know a flooded crank case/engine chamber will not help in the starting of the motor.I will do what you have suggested some time this week and post the results on here.....again Thanks for everyones responses..jim
could the coil be braking down when it gets hot? same for the cdi unit.
I don't think the coil has time to get hot as it only runs for a few seconds at a time, i did all the electrical resistance checks on the coil last night and all came up good. The cdi resistance checks are a little more tricky as it says in the manual to use a certain type of tester a SANWA T/N 07411-0020000 or a KOWA DIGITAL TASTER T/N 07411-0020000. I only have an AVO 8 or pocket sized multimeter (modern)i wonder if you really neeed the ones they say as modern technology has come on leaps and bounds since the 1980's.
I shall try another plug tonight, as for the piston in the right way around, yes it is cut out facing towards the carb (rearwards) i did have this thought myself but quickly discounted it. Any other suggestions appreciated. I Was thinking of trying a new cdi unit for a bigger spark, i was thinking as more fuel goes in the motor could this extinguish the spark if too much fuel present...........just a thought what does anyone think.....as a last ditch effort can anyone suggest a decent motorcycle engineer in lincolnshire....not a dealer though. cheers jimm
I have a TLM 200 which i have just done a full engine rebuild on, main bearings main seals ect. It runs (somtimes)on a keihin pe26 and will currently not tick over for more than a few seconds and any aplication of throttle just kills the motor, the carb is all clean with fresh fuel at 50:1 the spark plug is a new ngk and has a visible spark. The confusing bit is it will start easily a few times and then cut out but after about the 5 or 6th go it will then not start again for the rest of the day This is rather disapointing after its been totally re-built at some cost and lots of time, i just want to use the thing now, any suggestions anybody...............
i didnt realise "they all sound like that sir!!" going back next tuesday for another look and hopefully strike a deal with them! its realy only going to be used as a 2nd bike and left in the shed for when the old man gets over, maybe 3 times a year. looking round they seem kinda scarce!!
I got one to, just done main bearings and all the good stuff, parts can be tricky to come by but main bearings and crank seals are the same as on a MTX 200RW, and many other parts I'm sure go to cmsnl.com for micro fiche pictures and to buy spares......jimm
Was wondering if you have ever re-fitted the kick start shaft assembly in your TLM 200, i have had to because i've done the main bearings so the case has been split, so after its all been re-built i had put the clutch back in and then was putting the kick start idle gear in and was putting the clutch cover back on when i realised that the cover would not go down all the way because the idle gear on the kick start was sitting up to much. The kick start shaft is in as far as it will go and i can't push the kick start gear down anymore.....are you suposed to some how wind up the kick start shaft helix gear thingy when you put it back in the crank case thus ensuring the gear on the kick start shaft is fully wound down....any help greatly appreciated ...cheers jimm
I am hoping my mate in Japan can help source one for me. Could use the knuckle off another Honda and the TLR lever on that knuckle to complete the job.
Will also contact Ellastone also, but some of his prices do seem a bit wild! (
See link above for parts ,i have a TLM 200 don't know if there is a difference between 200 and 200R, john in parts (at nightingales) has been very helpful for me whilst doing my full engine re-build.
I used to have two TY 175's and always thought they were powerful enough, can't wait now to get my engine built and back in as you say the TLM is very grunty....
If you don't mind how much did you pay for your TLM, i have absolutley no idea how much mine is worth, i paid
tlm 200 tick over
in Honda
Posted