modifier

ere's a wee lesen.

I guess you mean on the Missouri side of Kansas City. I do have property in both states but my house is on the KS side of the tracks. Joco not Wyco. And no Billy T, I'm not a Sassanach. Something has come up a bunch of times here when people talk about "No Stop". It seems to be interchangeable and was one of my questions from the beginning. No Stop meaning [stopping or reversing forward motion] being one interpretation, and [stopping with a foot down] being the other. Imo stopping with a foot down should be and likely always has been a 5 (really should be on push bikes too), but the new rule refers to [any time forward motion is stopped], right? Whether you put your foot down or not. I wonder if that includes hoping up and down or around and stopping for an instant to set your front or rear wheel sideways, all to get a straight run at the section or get around a tight turn that could not be rolled? That is where I think the problem comes up. All those skills people have been working on for years would be for not. Your body or your bike may be moving doing those moves but the wheels are no longer rotating or continuing forward motion. So which is it? Does the new rule say no stopping of the wheels or no putting your foot down and stopping?

That's pretty cool if you ask me. Is it mixed with actual Gaelic or just a phonetic interpretation of someone with a serious Scottish accent with some local vernacular thrown in?Makes me want to watch Snatch again. The movie Not that I can understand more than about half of it.

In the sense that he has obviously been here a while and somewhat earned the right to be a bit bossy. And if I had posted a bicycle trials thread in a motorcycle trials forum he would be completely in the right. However, in this case it's pushing it and he brought it up more than once including cuts to the legitimacy of bicycle trials each time. Both forms are legit.

I respect your 2300 posts OTF and I wouldn't say anything but you have made your point before and it seems a bit persnickety. I started this thread. The thread was obviously about motor trials. The bicycle reference was just a side note. Just like if someone mentioned in a Beta thread that Hondas have the same issue. Bicycles are mentioned in perhaps 6 at best of 70 posts in this thread. Not the end of the world.

Nope, not confused at all. Are you confused 'old trials fanatic'?

I got the bike from Lewisport and Adrian jetted it for my elevation before he shipped it. Someplace around here on one of the billion postits (argh) I have notes from talking to a distrubutor of VP race fuel which is what the KTM shops in town sell. No mention of 116. I think Dale said 1/2 108. I'm building a hot MX bike that is going to need race fuel so I guess I can't put off buying it any longer with 2 bikes that now need it. The only race fuel that has ethanol is some special blend for National events. I have a place where I buy no eth pump gas. HyVee.

Dale (US GG distributor) came over and looked at it today. The buzzing sound seems to have gone away after I tightened the finder bolts. He said that the engine vibration is normal and that there was a little pinging going on because I'm running no ethanol pump gas. I guess I need to mix in 1/2 race fuel. He also thought raising the needle 1 step might not be bad either. I'll try the race gas first.

Not close at all. 1 will probably be fine. The GG US distributor saw it today and thought it was a good idea and added that he had a sore calf from slipping off last time he road.

It's a 280. If 1 isn't enough I could add 1 more to the next slot. But like I said with wet soles there was no slip. Just have to see with mud. You could be right about wanting to limit the ability to kick but I think it's more likely done for aesthetics. You can kick it just as hard as long as it's dry.

I checked all the bolts I could get to today and except for the fender bolts into the plastic fenders nothing was loose. It's not so much the buzzing noise that bothers me but the fact that the engine vibrates that much. Feels like a CZ from the 70s. Well not really...but still. The buzz sound could be coming from the front disc guard since it isn't attached at the bottom. ?? Dale and I were going riding this week but he can't make it and he said he was going to be close to my house anywho tomorrow morning so he's stopping by. It will be easier to tell with 2 people there. It's probably nothing. I just wanted to make sure before I road it much. Thanks

I'll check bolts but they all have a yellow marker dot on them implying that someone checked everything at assembly. The bike is new with about 3 hrs on it so unless there was a manufacturing error nothing internally should be out of spec. But that is why I'm asking if they all vibrate like this.

If I rev up my engine (280) to clean out while stopped it really vibrates. Not the kind of high frequency buzzing vibration I get in my 2T KTMs but lower and it makes the front fender or something up front buzz. Is this normal? Aren't these engines short stroke large bore? You would think that would reduce rather than increase the tendency to vibrate at high rpm.

Will do. Thanks.

I don't know about older bikes but my dealer told me to use Type F ATF only in my '12 Raga. He's been doing this for many years and has rebuilt a lot of transmissions so I think I'll trust him. Btw how fragile are these transmissions? I try to remember to use the clutch when I shift and do usually, but I'm used to shifting w/o one on dirtbikes. If you are going very slow and close the throttle it clicks right into gear with no objection without.

Hopefully that will never happen but if it does I'll try and remain calm and deal with it appropriately. I hit a tree the other day after launching up a creek bank and hurt my hand somewhat. Hopefully won't do that again but I'm used to riding KTMs with bark busters on every one. Not that you are usually going fast enough to worry about on a trials bike but it would still be nice. I might design and build some lightweight guards for the Raga that would work on mountain bikes too. I've wanted to do that ever since bars started getting wider on bikes. The issue at hand is there is apparently a bearing at the end of the throttle. I don't know how this is constructed but it might make an expansion plug in that end impossible. Application to this thread? you ask If there is a guard on the end the throttle will be very unlikely to stick open.

Installed a little SS pin on the kick today. Haven't tried it in mud yet, just wet soles. Seems to work pretty well. No slipping.

They are the same studs that are on S3 pegs that people ride with. And you are only on it for a second rather than all day, so I don't think it would be too hard on the boots. What I'm more worried about would be slipping off while kicking and tearing my pants. But maybe that wouldn't happen either. In another forum someone said that there have been lots of complaints about the 2012 toddler sized kick. If I can't learn to live with it or make it work better then last year's kick is an option. Thanks.

Thanks for the input. I'll live with it for a while and see if I get used to it. If not 1 to 3 carefully placed pedal/peg threaded studs will probably help immensely.

When I picked my Raga up from being shipped back to the GG distributor, who happens to be in my town, he told me to be careful if the bike is hot and I fall on the right side and the throttle gets stuck open. Apparently if the bike is allowed to run at full throttle for a bit it can start dieseling and running on even after you pick the bike up and shut the throttle. He said if this happens the kill button will not do anything, so either put your hand over the pipe (which didn't work for the OP) or put it in a higher gear and hold on the brakes and dump the clutch. If this is is happening I don't think pulling the plug wire would stop it either. If it is truly dieseling. This sounds scary. I've never heard of anything like this with non trials bikes. Is it just a Gas Gas thing? How does this happen and what is the best thing to do if it does?

I finally got my 2012 Raga and was able to take it out for 1 day before the rain then winter mix hit. Great bike. Amazing handling. I can't imagine a trials bike being any better, except for the little kid sized kick start. I know saving weight is key but they could have made the thing a inch longer and the added weight would have been mere grams. It works ok when everything is perfectly dry but get a little mud on your boots (Sidi Trials) and it's almost impossible to stay on it. If they can't make it bigger they could at least add some traction knurling or something. I hate the thought, but have considered cutting some groves in the back side where your boot hits it when kicking, parallel to the kickstart so it won't create stress risers. Or maybe even drill and tap a few holes and add some allenhead set screws like in footpegs or pedals. I can deal with it the way it is but have to be really careful and slip off a lot of the time, maybe getting 1 good kick out of 5 tries. And since you get such a short stroke with each kick that can take a lot of attempts. But that was just with a little mud. If it was actually a muddy or rainy day it would be quite a struggle. Does anyone do anything to improve this situation?

It's still trials. They stop, and reverse all the time. No stop rule would kill it. It's bloody cool

Here is what Adam R thinks of the idea. https://www.youtube....d&v=Y1WCyVF-_2A And great coverage of some observed trials. Imagine telling those guys they can't stop or reverse.

I was reading a thread on another trials forum that they are changing a rule and that you will no longer be allowed to stop forward motion or you get a point (or maybe 5?). They weren't talking about the details but mostly about several small bike companies lobbying for this in an effort to "save" the sport.