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plodder

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Everything posted by plodder

  1. plodder replied to mike55's topic in Yamaha
    P.S. You have the later carb on your bike & yes the washer is intende to be there on that model. Regards Plodder
  2. plodder replied to mike55's topic in Yamaha
    Hello again, The TY250 59N model you have originally had a restrictive airbox lid & would of had the following jetting as standard : Tekei Y26P/1 carb Main Jet 110 , Needle Jet 2610,Jet Needle& clip position 5C95-3, Cutaway Slide 2.5, Pilot jet 48, Air jet 2.5mm ,Starter Jet 0,7, Airscrew 1 1/2 turns, Float Height 22mm , Spark plug NGK B7ES. Ign. Timing 2.8mm BTDC. Compression 7.6:1 TheTY250R Model number 38V/44J/44H differs in having a free flowing airbox lid & lighter flywheel. Carb specs for this model are: Tekei Y26/P1 Main Jet 140, Needle Jet S-00 , Jet Needle & clip position 5C95-3, Cutaway Slide 2.5, Pilot Jet 40, Air jet 2.5mm , Starter jet 0,7, Airscrew 2 1/4 turns,Float Height 22mm, Spark Plug Champion N-5G , Ign. Timing 2.8mm BTDC. Compression 7.8:1 The TY250R(last model ) 2AF 38V-010101 Different Piston to earlier models. Carb specs for this model Tekei Y26/P1 Main Jet 135, Needle Jet S-10,Jet Needle & clip position 5C99-3, Cutaway Slide 2.5, Pilot Jet 38, Air Jet 2.5mm , Starter jet 0,7 , Airscrew 1 1/2, Float Height 22mm , Spark Plug NGK BR6ES , Ign, Timing 2.8 BTDC , Compression 7.0:1 A few points to take into consideration: It's very easy to chase a jetting problem when the carb is worn, especially the slide, as this could be letting air past it.I put some new jets in & the bike was a lot easier to start.Also it's possible to have the carb settings correct , but be spoofed by a too rich pre-mixture (wrong oil ratio )or old fuel which will both give the symptom of weak carb settings. Hope this helps your situation, Regards Plodder.
  3. plodder replied to mike55's topic in Yamaha
    Hi, i've been working on a TY250 Mono that knocks like yours does. The problems i've found are; The bike was designed with a very wide squish clearance , depending on which piston is fitted it can be as much as 2.4mm which is excessive. There are TY 250 pistons with conventional crowns (Piston top ) & Later pistons with two crown heights which have a lower crown height on either side to bleed the fuel/oil mixture into the cylinder earlier through the transfer ports. The upshot of all this "Jargon " to the layman is that the Squish clearance is to high . If you measure the suish clearance as mentioned in the previous posts & say it comes out at say 2.4mm then the fuel/oil mixture will not totally be burnt causing the "Knock " you mentioned ( if you remove your cylinder head & turn the engine over to TDC look at how near the piston is to the top of the barrel, there will be a soot line left by the carbon deposits ). Some people remove the head gasket ( measures 1mm thick ) & lap the head to the cylinder to close up the squish, but i would advise turning 1mm from the base of the barrel then raising the exhaust port 1mm to get you back to where it should be, The transfer & inlet ports will be o, the optimum squish clearance is 1.1mm to 1.4mm. Also the TY250S road model has a 28mm wide flywheel weight & the TY250R competition model has a 17.5mm wide flywheel so owners of the TY250S can get a more responsive bike by having the flwheel weight machined to the TY250R width. Other things to note are ; always use fresh fuel at 50:1 pre-mix( 100ML to 5 litres of Petrol ) with a good quality synthetic oil , Ignition timing static is 2.8mm BTDC but you can experiment slightly 0.2mm either way won't do any harm. Keep the exhaust clear & a good silencer fitted. The carburettors on these bikes are usually worn out and one of the biggest problems is leaving the bike with fuel in the tank for a while , then the float valve lets the fuel flow into the crankcase & this can lead to all sorts of running issues the next time you use the bike ( unburnt fuel sloshing around in the crankcases ) . So the number one thing on a TY250 mono is to remove the bash plate & you'll see a 6mm bolt with a fibre or copper washer under it , remove this bolt & see how much fuel pours out !! if it doesn't you can leave some fuel in your tank but personally i'd at least remove the fuel pipe from the tank. I hope this is of help . I'll do another post on the jetting when i've finshed this bike. Regards Plodder.

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