Right so the bike is together and forks work really well only problem now is fork seals are spewing oil out which I could have guessed would happen as they are 35mm seals found in our stores at work.. any ideas with out sending them for re chroming??? Are the mz seals smaller than 35mm??? Only imperial size round ther is 1 3/8 which is 34.9ish so prob still same problem??? Anyone any ideas???
Ok so a friend had a spare outer and I turned up a new inner job sorted had her struck up and runs like a dream now oil pumping as should and sounds really nice
Oh yeah my big end is new I turned it from a bearing race bloody hard stuff to turn.. got thro a few carbide tips but did the trick. Should have used cbn (carbide boRon nitride) tips but we don't stock many at work for the tools I have at home.. also got 1/4 x 1/2 inch rollers in there first time I pressed crank together rod wound it's self from one side to other so had to pull that apart and skim out the few microns taper in it as the 1/2 long rollers were exaggerating the taper might have been alright with 1/4 x 1/4 rollers oh well all sorted now
Cheers boys ripped it down in a few hours tonight Turns out aawil hit the nail on the head crank spins fine until the cases are bolted that last half mm shut.. Guna press out the bush and outer bit tomo an skim up on me lathe hopefully should sort it.. there's a timing side conversion on ebay at min 132.50 but he can't post it until 14th an i wanted to have it running by then as I'm going for back op on 21st so will be out of action for 3 months at least fingers crossed that will sort it... watch this space.. also to the otter bloke I've found out what line boring is a friend told me. Seems like a ball ache but I guess it's the only way to get it right if crank cases arn't matched.. I turned my bush in the outer if that makes sense lol well I roughed it out then pressed it in and skimmed it up to finish. cheers luke
thanks guys guna have to be stripped then.. nemind something to do over the weekend! yes pulled in and bush is phosphor bronze. line bored? never heard this term? I made it as a replacement to fit in original outer piece..
Also I have my pvl set to fire at 6.5mm before top dead centre it's a sammy miller pvl however the destructions are very vague they say to set it 5 to 8 mm from tac anyone any info on a narrower range???
i have tried kicking it over a few times but no joy however it will fire maybe I should fit the front brake cable tomo and take it to a big hill an try bumbing it ..
so I have built my c15 almost completely from jumble parts and its time to get her running however there is a problem.. the timing side bush I have turned up is slightly tight I really don't want to strip it back down an if I do I will prob just buy the bearing conversion.. however any one else had this problem when using a bush for timing side? it is very hard to kick over altho not impossible.. doesn't help that im using an m20 kickstart borrowed from a friend.. any ideas on how to loosen her and get the oil pumping round to loosen it up a bit??? any comments welcome
they are no where near set up from standard ()mine had slide and mixture screw all over the place) and you cannot request different jetting when purchasing they come as they are but first impressions seem good..
I've nearly got my bsa c15/b40 built and was wondering how I go about registering it to get a v5 and have an age related plate I believe the frame to be a 1961 b40 and the engine is a 1965 usa f type c15 engine.. will this be tax free and will I need an mot? We're do I start cheers luke
Can anyone tell me the chain length I need for a bsa c15 with 13t engine sprocket and 62 rear wheel sprocket??? Longer would be better as I can chop it down cheers luke...
Thanks for the help guys managed to shim out the top with 4 tho system shim an the bottom with 3 tho plastic shim we use behind broach cutters at work.. jobs a good un! As for the billet yokes they are billet yokes I've had made up by a bloke at work only thing is I presumed the 35mm forks were 35mm. And I suggest anyone who tries folding the paper that many times is very careful do it wrong and you will create a black hole and we'll all be sacked in..
I had a standard piston after my last rebore, about 7.5 / 8:1. I turned 40 thou off the top and it became much better
I also have standard bore an piston and am about to build this when you say 40 tho I presume you turned/milled 40 tho off the top? Is 40 tho maximum amount?
Any info on what plug to use as I'm about to install my pvl from sammy miller also 5 degrees before top dead is that the point you line up the line on the rotor an stator? Instructions left alot to be desired!!!
So I purchased a set of mz forks for my bsa c15 trials bike I'm building problem is my 35mm yokes are just that 35mm an the mz forks are 34.7 the options at the minute are shim out the gap using 6 tho shim wrapped round the stancions or bore out the yokes and turn a split bush. Re chroming is not an option as I don't even know if the forks are any good so don't want to waste 150 quid re hard chroming them.. any input welcome
fingers crossed that will sort it... watch this space.. also to the otter bloke I've found out what line boring is a friend told me. Seems like a ball ache but I guess it's the only way to get it right if crank cases arn't matched.. I turned my bush in the outer if that makes sense lol well I roughed it out then pressed it in and skimmed it up to finish. cheers luke
Mz Forks Not Quite 35Mm
in Pre-65 Bikes
Posted
Right so the bike is together and forks work really well only problem now is fork seals are spewing oil out which I could have guessed would happen as they are 35mm seals found in our stores at work.. any ideas with out sending them for re chroming??? Are the mz seals smaller than 35mm??? Only imperial size round ther is 1 3/8 which is 34.9ish so prob still same problem??? Anyone any ideas???