Yes, with hot air first on the gear. The bearing is easier, but you might not be able to get the bearing puller halves behind the bearing and so would need to use two wedges. Use the puller like in this image:
Hello, Peter B. I got it, thanks so much for information!
Somebody open engine before me, i think bearing is not original, because bearing has i line, and its not stock.
I would use a stronger puller, here is a photo of a bearing separator
This type is better to get in behind the gear. Best not to use a flame to heat the gear, use a hot air gun. The gear will be hardened and tempered and you may damage the tempering with a flame.
I have to remove gear and after bearing like this?
Dobroe utro, the viton seal on the inner side of the bearing does not usually fail, but if you must change the bearing, you need to heat up the gear with a hot air gun and use a bearing separator tool, with an extractor to withdraw the gear, it is a very tight interference fit on the shaft and takes a lot of force to remove. With the gear off, there is very little room behind the bearing to fit the bearing separator tool, some of these tools are a little more narrow than others and may be able to fit behind the bearing. If not, you can grind up two very thin wedges to use behind the bearing to drive it off the shaft, it is not a very tight fit but the bearing has an O ring seal on the internal diameter of the shaft so may be a little tight at first. At this point in time it would be a good idea to replace the bearing, which comes complete with oli seal and both inner and outer O ring seals. You can use a Gas Gas bearing from a PRO trial model, but would need to grind a slot accurately on the outer sleeve for the locating pin. (I don't know if you can still get an Ossa main bearing) To assemble the crankshaft into the casing is not so easy. With a new bearing and seals fitted and with a gear in place, position the con-rod at bottom dead centre, turn the bearing outer until the slot is at bottom, mark the locating pin hole along the inside of the crank case, up to the outer edge of the left side, using a marker pen. Then mark the slot position of the bearing to the left outer side of the flywheel, so you can align the slot with the locating pin hole when you fit the crankshaft to the crank case. Then, put the crankshaft in a freezer overnight without moving the bearing. The next day, heat the crank case in the over to 100C, when ready carefully fit the frozen crankshaft into position, it will easily fall into place, being careful to line up the marks. Tried to write this in Russian but gave up after "hello" Bye, Peter B.
Thanks so much. Can you look please, is it correct action on the photo?
I understand my problem: oil form gearbox comes to engine, because rubber on the bearing is bad. I changed out ring rubber, but it still dont work, and oil going to engine.
Is anybody know, how to change bearing?? I dont understant how to unlock this bearing. Thanks!
I suggest putting everything back together, and setting the TPS to about 0.6 volts as measured between the TPS center pin (wiper) and chassis ground. If the bike still runs poorly move the TPS slightly. Don't move it randomly. Move it in increments of about 0.02 volts. Try both increasing and decreasing.
It is possibly your injector is dirty and leaking into the engine. Some automotive repair shops can clean injectors.
Others on this forum have offered the software. A lot of reading on this forum will help.
Thanks so much for information. I will be think about diagnostic cable.
Today checked sensors:
1. Air temperature:
Electrical resistance show 9 kOmh, room degree. If i make heat - resistance going down. I dont know, is it correct, i know only, if i change temperature resistance change.
2. Air pressure
I give 5 V and check voltage. In standard in my room show me 3,5 V
I made vacuum by my mouth and voltage going to 1,9 V
I dont know, is it good value or not, but i know - if i change air pressure, value is change too (the same like air temp.)
3. TPS.
I check voltage in 2 position TPS on throttle (left and right).
1. position. From 0,825 (idle) to 1,893 (full gas)
2. position. From 0,955 (idle) to 2,276 (full gas)
My TPS is broken? If i remove TPS from throttle i dont see 0,6 any way. 0,8 is start.
4. Injection
My friend have car repair box and he have stand to check injection, like this
But i cant find standard, i need to know:
1. Gasoline pressure
2. Frequency per min (how much injection will be opened and closed per 1 minute)
3. How much gasoline will be in a test tube per 1 minute.
Thank you very much, a lot of information in your notebook. After read you notebook i understand did mistake, i removed not air temp sensor, its air pressure sensor (in air box).
Today i want to remove temp sensor (in throttle) and check sensor .
Hello. I am from Russia. Sorry for my bad language. I bought OSSA Explorer, and after 3 hours i get black spark(spark was new NGK BP5ES). Air filter was clean, and i use synthetic oil for 2 stroke 10 ml/1 l gasoline.
Its problem because too much gasoline in injection. I dont have diagnostic cable, and i want to check all sensor and wires, fuel Injector, and fuel pump. I remove temp air sensor, throttle position sensor and fuel Injector to check.
And my fuel injector have number FBYCG80 800 1808.
Its fuel injector from Subaru Impreza
I think its not original fuel injector, but look same.
It's my
its original (part number 9110010211) from https://trialstribulations.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=26&products_id=2348
Is anybody know, my fuel Injector is original? If not, do you have a picture of original, or do you know maybe car part number, because its fuel injector from car or moto (OSSA did not produce fuel injection) . Thank you!
OSSA 280i gearbox parts
in OSSA
Posted
I have same problem. One teeth on 5-th gear was damaged. Is anybody know some internet-market, where can i buy parts for gearbox? Thank you!