gazza

A couple more things to check, Check the fuel flow through the tap with the petrol cap on and off the tank Check that the spring clip ( not the circlip) holding the needle in the carby slide is fitted correctly and not allowing the needle to "hang" when the throtle is returned to idle cheers Gazza

Hi, according to the genuine honda manual the TLR200 should be spring free length - 508.7mm (20.03in) fork oil capacity - 295+/- 2.5cc front fork air pressure - 0-39kpa (0-5.69psi) oil level - 118mm from top of tube to top of oil level using Auto Transmission fluid hope this helps Gary

Hi, according to the manual it should be 19mm from the bottom edge of the float to the underside of the main carb body (where the gasket sits) Lucky it has photos as all of the text is in Japanese. thanks Gazza

Hi Mcd, I have a few back and white images of different bikes that I have edited from photos. How much detail do you need? and how do you intend to reproduce it eg. business card size, t-shirt size, large sticker on the back of a trailer? thanks Gazza

Hi Thomas, acording to my manual it should be Front forks: 267cc +- 2.5cc Engine: 1.1 lt Hopefully someone in the UK can recommend a brand of oil thanks Gazza

Hi "Madmostin" I bought a sheet of "Air cleaner " foam about 20mm thick, and cut my own to suit. I have also got a full parts list for all TLM 200's and 220's thanks Gazza

Hi all, I have parts lists for TLM200's and TLM220's, PM me if you need to find a part number. Am getting a workshop manual as well but I'm not sure how much is in English thanks Gazza

if it will help, it's part number 22366-KJ2-000 thanks Gazza

Hi, something else to consider. I have a TL125 that suffered from the same problem, given that they are now more than 30 years old you have to consider that the dia of the drum is worn as well. I have fixed this by measuring the amount of travel by the brake cam as it moves the shoes apart, as the drum wears this cam rotates more to take up the slack of the worn drum (even if you reposition the lever on the spline you will still have the same problem) eventually this cam gets to the point where it stops moving the shoes apart and it tends to jam/wedge itself between the two shoes. I then carefully tack welded a piece of 1-1.5mm flat steel to the cam area of the break shoe (tack welds OK to the steel cast into each alum shoe) this effectively increases the dia of the shoes and allows the cam to work like it used too. It has worked sucessfully for me but I don't know if it is a common fix. thanks Gazza

Hi Guys, just to clarify some information above. You refer to both the TLR250's as "F" and "R" models, am I right in assuming that the "F" model is the twin shock and the "R" model is the monoshock? (not the RTL which is a different monoshock) ON the subject of TLR hubs, I recently bought a good secondhand gold anodised front wheel assembly for a TLM200 I am working on, I don't know what model bike the wheel is from but the hub has a smaller dia axle and smaller brake shoes than both the TLR250 and TLM200 front hubs thanks Gazza

Hi all, I just joined so this is my first post. Does anyone have any links online for a parts list for a TLR250, I want to by some spares for mine and need to cross reference these parts with available TLR 200 and early XR200 (twin shock) thanks Gazza