robbo

Hi, I'm sure this topic has been covered before but I can't find it so does anyone know a good starting point for jetting a keihin carb for a 125 pro? The carb is off a 300 pro so will I also need to change the silde which is currently a 3.5 and the needle which is currently a jjh? Any recommendations / experiences would be much appreciated Cheers, Mark

Also, the keihin carb slider is chrome plated all over and smooth with no gooves on the arc section. I can't see minor scoring causing an issue though. Good luck, Mark

Hi, Have you considered the CDI as being the potential problem? possibility - worth trying to borrow one off someone else's 315R to try it - save you the expense if it's not that! Have you replaced the plug cap yet? Good luck!

Hello peeps, Just after a bit of advice if someone can help me please - I'm thinking about buyer a gasser (280 or 300) but don't know what the difference is between a txt & txt pro? Which is the best bike / engine to go for and are there any expensive bad points to watch out for? Any ideas on pricing would be much appreciated too! I've owned a few monts but now fancy a change (hope I'm making the right choice!) Cheers, Rob

Hi, I had the same problem a couple of months ago & tried the same as you at first as well as a full set of clutch plates. I also tried adjusting the lever numerous times but the problem didn't go way (it wasn't happening all the time though). I ordered the two 'o' rings for the slave cylinder (one green & one black), fitted them & problem sorted! Make sure you clean all the fluid off the slave cylinder piston before fitting new 'o' rings & also apply a light coating of silicone grease to the 'o' rings - it says so in the manual! Hope you get it sorted, Mark

Remove the rear mudguard, petrol tank, air box, carb, rear suspension assy and exhaust middle box. You can then get to the reed box very easily. Done the exact same job a few months ago - big improvement!! Enjoy!!

Hi, I just did my '97 315r a couple of months ago. I bead blasted the frame, swingarm, rims, crankcase covers etc etc. then Alocromed them and then powder coated them with an architectual grade black satin polyester powder paint. It looks really good to be honest with new plastics and a full set of '03 decals. This finish is very hard wearing - the bike has had one hell of a hammering since then - clubman trials weekly and I love falling off! There's a couple of scratches on it now but nothing major. Word of warning - if you're going to go down this route make sure you use the correct powder paint i.e. a polyester paint. Hybrid paints (i.e. epoxy polyesters, epoxies etc. will "chalk" when used in harsh environments. This basically means they will dull off and eventually start to go brittle and crack! and you dont want that to happen after all your hard work, cos believe me - it takes HOURS to strip the bike down and build it back up! Hope this helps, let me know how you get on.

Hi, Just been reading this topic as someone mentioned to me at a trial last week that I should remove such restrictors on my 315 to give me more power! Is this the case? And...how do you do it and is it worth the hassle? Is it just a simple case of opening up the bore size in the areas mentioned? I was also told to remove the piece of plastic that restricts the air intake through the air filter? Any advice would be much appreciated as I'm very curious about this now! Thanks, Mark

Hi, I take it you mean the stator assembly? I just had mine repaired 2 weeks ago and my bike fired up 2nd kick when I got it all back together. I sent it to West Country Rewinds in Plymouth and got it back in 2 days! A lot less expensive than buying a new one too