chrisb7

Hi, Yes I replaced both seals without splitting the engine. One seal sits in the disk valve cover and the other sits in the magneto plate that sits behind the flywheel. (the flywheel cover bolts to this plate) I replaced the O Ring in the disk valve cover just as a precaution even though the original looked ok. Obviously, I have been unlucky in my attempt to minimise the work as I now have to split the engine to replace the sealant. I originally thought that there was a gasket between the two sides of the engine. Cheers Chris

Thanks for the advice, that's a job to be done over the next few weeks! Cheers Chris

I have recently replaced the crank seals and also the large O ring on the disk valve cover but engine oil still seems to be getting through into the cylinder. Bike smokes a fair bit as a result. Does anybody have any ideas of what else I can do to stop the engine oil getting through?

Martin, Thanks for the instructions. I'll try aain today. Cheers Chris

I am in the process of rebuilding the engine on my 1982 320TL. Everything was going fine until I came to setting the ignition timing. I know that it should be between 2.6 and 2.8 BTDC but I can't rotate the stator plate enough to achieve this. Can someone help by taking me through the process for setting the ignition timing as I am probably making an elementary mistake! Cheers Chris

Thanks, I'll try the NGK plug.

Help! I have just bought a Fantic 300 but it doesn't run quite right. Thought I would check the timimg etc. Does anybody know where I can get a repair manual or if not tell me what to look for in setting the timing. I read somewhere that it uses a Champion N3 plug and the timimg settings are 2.5mm before TDC. Is this right? Also I couldn't see any alignment marks when I took off the magneto cover. Any help appreciated.