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gregrsv

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About gregrsv

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  • Bike
    EVO 250

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  • Location
    perthshire ,scotland
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  1. Hi I'd like to get my enfield crusader road legal , but ive only got the old log book style reg document and ive never changed to the modern doc as i believe the log book would have to be sent in and would be lost is this correct ? could anyone here clarify the procedure ? thanks greg
  2. Guys I was thinking of starting a wee project for the winter , ive got a spare crusader frame , and wondered if the bullet in crusader frame is fairly straight forward , the ones ive seen look like the frame has been fairly unchanged , but any advise or tips on starting from scratch would be great thanks greg
  3. Hi I'd do what the others are saying , and..... seal up between the silencer and airbox with loads of silicone , also where the rear mudguard fits along the side of the airbox , seal that to prevent rear wheel spray getting in . Fabricate some sort of flap under the rear mudguard just aft of the mudguard screws to prevent water getting near your airbox intake it can run down from there easily. Also if you get odd running /cutting out issues , where the bike wont take throttle at the bottom end ( you think its a blocked pilot) then check down in the spark plug tunnel for water , this has happened several times to me . Make sure you have a good seal around the plug cap- rocker box. All the best greg
  4. Bob Thanks for that , your english is fine its just my Jockanese!! I'll try a couple of spacers tommorrow and see what like , after ive done the propshaft on my landcruiser - its rattling the teeth out of my heed!! cheers greg
  5. Thanks guys , I shall try one of the lighter synthetics as you mentione cope , i agree with slippage in top not being too much of a worry as my rev3 slipped in top for years!, but the 320 was slipping badly in top you could barely open the throttle without a slip. Regarding Bobs comment , i think ive got what you mean , I was going to fit washers to act as spacers at the top of the threaded bosses that the clutch springs screw down onto , this would reduce the amount of compression on the springs when the bolts are fully tightened , and hopefully lightening the action without too much slippage , is that the same as you are meaning Bob? cheers Greg
  6. Hi I am interested to know what engine oils people have been using in thier 320's . Ive been experimenting with the clutch to make it less grabby, i tried to run it minus 2 clutch springs and the clutch had brilliant progression and was very light but slipped in top gear . So ive put the springs back in and dressed the tabs on the friction plates and clutch basket with a smooth flat file . This has helped a bit , but im wondering if different oil might help a bit as well. cheers greg
  7. Thanks Bob Did you ever look into the added flywheel mass , or have you managed to get a shot on a 320 with this mod done yet ? cheers greg
  8. All I see a few of you have been trying the 24mm oko on the 320 , hows things going , i ditched mine in favour of the sps carb last autumn , bike starts a lot better and runs well . But i still believe the 24mm will give a softer bottom end when set up right , and hopefully set up will improve on the starting issues i had. So i intend to keep experimenting with it. Can any of you give me a basic guide as to what jets you have been using in the oko 24mm to get it running right , also float hieght and do you blank off the power jet or keep it functional . I see trial tech in australia are having a bit of sucess with an oko24mm on a 320 , i asked if they could advise me which jets to start off with but i never got an answer. cheers greg
  9. Hi Guys I too have thought the clutch to be a bit on/off, but i dont know if my symptoms are the same and it would be interesting to see if you guys can get the same effect as a get..... If you use the clutch in and out and know exactly where the "bite point is" then do a big climb eg high revs feeding the clutch in , then immediately (at the top of the climb say) do i tight bit that requires a bit of clutch has the "bite" point of your clutch changed . In the above example mine does the clutch will bite with the lever further in , then a few minutes later all is back to normal , I wondered if the heat caused by slipping the clutch was expanding something, and i also wondered if the on/off grab and the problem above is from one root cause? greg
  10. Hi Guys I too have thought the clutch to be a bit on/off, but i dont know if my symptoms are the same and it would be interesting to see if you guys can get the same effect as a get..... If you use the clutch in and out and know exactly where the "bite point is" then do a big climb eg high revs feeding the clutch in , then immediately (at the top of the climb say) do i tight bit that requires a bit of clutch has the "bite" point of your clutch changed . In the above example mine does the clutch will bite with the lever further in , then a few minutes later all is back to normal , I wondered if the heat caused by slipping the clutch was expanding something, and i also wondered if the on/off grab and the problem above is from one root cause? greg
  11. Charlie Sounds like once you get your beastie up and running its going to be pretty good , Ill have alook at the gear thing this weekend hopefully , i didnt know if you needed some stop mechanism when using the indicator assy , as a gear selector to prevent it over selecting. I think the good forks will make a big difference . Will look forward to the pictures. cheers greg
  12. Hi Jumbostu Have you had ashot of any of the other unit trials bikes to compare the weight of them to the crusader ? looking at your pics with them forks on the bike seems a bit shorter than mine , like Charlie said if you get a set of damped forks it'll make a good pre 65 er . I'm full of enthusiasm after the weekend at kinlochleven seeing all those crusaders up there was good, (the enthusiasm bit happens after ever pre65!) so i'm thinking ill get the wheel done with alloy rims and try and get the forks to work properly , like charlie said they are meant to be damped so they might be not too bad onece i get them sorted. ive also got a tr6 that i'm building which has been an ongoing mission for ages so that needs a load of time thrown at it . I'll post any things i find out about the crusader along the way and solutions if i get the gears set up right and forks sorted. cheers greg
  13. Hi Has anyone here had a go at the pre 65 trial up aviemore way that Big John does, ive heard its good but im not the best with the old bike and its not the best with water! Are the sections easy or hard , are they mostly burns like the trials up here for the more modern stuff or is it a mixture. i've an old crusader for years using it up the hills etc locally but ive fancied having a go at a trial with it. Is there any pics on the web of the event last year and who do i contact for an entry? Cheers Greg
  14. Heres some pics of my trials crusader , with a shot of the forks and the top yolk cheers greg hope these work this is a first for me!!
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