madman

the new stator comes with a new flywheel its a simliar setup to the beta minicross ie. a small magneto flywheel spinning between the coils, as oposed to the origional sherco flywheel spinning around the coil. so i guess the inertia is not as much hence slightly higher tickover and the clutch kicking in too early BTW Thanks for your input alan

Jet is now upped to a 65 and bike is running like a dream . ive had to adjust the clutch because with the lighter flywheel it was coming in too early and stalling the engine on ocasions due to the increased tickover to keep it alive

ok ive checked the timing with a strobe and all seems ok with the timing the carb is jetted with a 60 main not a 50 as i suspected the spark at the plug is immense compared to the old setup ive discovered a leak on the inlet manifold i ran the engine up and sprayed some cleaner at the manifold which stalled the engine so ive sorted that problem when starting the bike there is a lot more resistance at the foot maybe because the spark is better dunno! still got a bit of a knock which comes and goes when bike is idling is it cos its running weak? im gonna get some jets and have a swap ps took head off all seams ok maybe air leak was weakening mixture enough to cook the motor

It idled fine the old stator had one coil and picked its earth up through the engine and frameand therfore useda single wire. The new stator has 4 coils and 2 wires one has a tag on that connects to the coil earthing connection the other goes on the coil +ve feed. Just on another note ive also changed the engine oil seals as it was smoking a bit must have been getting a little transmision oil sucked in. Maybe that helped cool it too. Smoke is OK now A 50 jet is not that big maybe i need to go up a size. Might give it a try. What else could make it overheat. Small yard on and off the power, thrashing it ,clutch getting hot. Maybe. Im using the same oil mix fully synthetic 125ml/oil to 5 Litres of fuel. Does anyone else running one of these know what size main (only) jet it uses ?

Hi Alan yup its got me a bit baffled too. The plug cap was a good couple of inches from the plug but it was like the whole bike was live! my son got a belt from the handle bar. The engine was real hot. The new stator has 4 coils and im thinking that it may well run in either of 2 positions as obviously the bike would not fire at the bottom of the stroke and deffo not with the ammount of power it had it is the quickest ive seen this bike run in a while. the bike was ticking over perfectly and accelerated rapidly. Good point about blocking the exhaust though (its a method i use on our model cars) i just wasnt thinking quickly. bike maybe lean becxause of an air leak. ill check that. but im a bit stumped

had the bike running today in the garden and it started ok but seemed to be running hotter. the ammount of power the thing has found has put a smile on my lads face again. he ran it round for 10 - 15 minutes and came to stop it but the cut out would not work(it did work when i started it a few times previously). so i gets a rag and pulls the spark plug cap off (get a good old jolt up the arm in the process) and believe it or not the damn thing still ran. Turns off the fuel and it cuts after a couple of minutes. the motor was very hot which ive not witnessed before. Im therfore thinking the ignition is too far advanced and start wondering if ive put the stator on the right way? the stator fits in one of 2 positions and ive switched it back to the first way i fitted it which according to a diagram ive since found is the correct way. So the bike has been ridden with the ignition out by 180 deg's would this cause the overheating? im suprised it ran at all unless it makes no difference. Maybe its running hot because it needs a bigger jet (50 currently) now the spark is so much better. could an engine get that hot that it doesnt need the spark plug to run? its all got me wondering. the timing canot be altered on the new stator as its fixed but there is a couple of degrees by just turning it a tad before tightening. there is also a slight knocking sound from the engine is this pre ignition or something

the stator has changed since my origional so the readings dont compare but the coil is the same and the readings between the sparkplug electrode and the stator pickup were 0 ohm on the new and 0.76 ohm on the old one. the spark on the new one is nough to jump from the plug cap to earth wheras the old setup would just manage the spark plug in open air.

tested compression which was 110 psi so not too bad IMO. tried a new plug still ran like a three legged dog. i've ordered a new stator and coil so hopefully that will cure it. I'll let you know how i get on

Thanks alan i dont think the compression is a problem ive removed the plug and put my thumb over the hole and it blows my thumb off when the engine is kicked but ill borrow a guage to confirm this

cheers alan ill buy a new plug tomorrow and put that in. ive cleaned the fuel tank filters and carb a couple of times i was suprised how much water was in the tank the first time. The bikes not been running as it should for the last couple of weekends each time i find somthing and think ive cured it.run it in the yard and it runs graet as soon as it gets a good bit of throttle it stalls and is hard to start i suspect somthing electrical. ill go right through it again. ill keep you informed

Hi all Having a bit of trouble with my lads sherco 50 it starts fine but when it gets hot it runs badly sounds like a misfire. Ive stripped the carb and cleaned also cleaned the reeds.ive checked the wiring for good contacts and put a different spark plug in. how do I: 1/ test the stator 2/ remove the flywheel to inspect the stator or replace the stator 3/ test the CDI unit 4/ test the compression i can borrow a four stroke compression tester will this work on the 2 stroke. What compression should i epect has anyone got any ideas what else may cause the running issues. also it gets hard to start when it cuts out. many Thanks Phil

lad used bike yesterday. you were right alan lots of oil has appeared on the forks and is running down the legs. looks like i will have to drain the oil out and regrease them :

Hi alan sorry for late reply been working out of town Im not sure on the year of the bike it had the poxy swing arm which ive changed to the grey strenghened one. the forks are not quite as you described they are pressed steel yolks and no plastic caps on the top instead they are bolted at the top( where the plastic caps would be) into some nuts welded in to the top of the fork legs ive had the bike about 18 months now and thaught it was circa 2003 but it maybe '02 or even '01. it was in as new condition when i purchased it so wasnt easy to identify the year.

Hi alan just to let you know i got the forks serviced stripped them down and was shocked to find very little oil left in them but a fair bit of rusty water. Looks like i need to stick to a better maintainance schedule. also there was no oil seals only a dust seal luckily i had some seals from the beta that fit perfectly so i put them in. The forks feel like they do somthing now other than bounce up and down like they did. also did the beta ones but they were in good condition just drained the oil and refilled em.

Thanks Alan thats a great help