Fitted a new "O" ring on the clutch cover on my 98 Techno...took nearly 30mins to get it near enough in place then nipped the screws up and seemed ok

Went out riding yesterday ...after 5 mins it was leaking ...refitted it the best I could ...leaked again.

Had another go and I got it to stop "pi**ing" out ...just a slight weep.

Anyone got any tips on fitting them ????

Regards

N

your suppost to put some instant gasket on it to seal it bought a new one when i rebuilt the clutch with my dad my freind had a simaler problem he put a new clutch cover on and it all pised out

I always coat the o-ring liberally with the thickest grease I can find. That helps hold the o-ring in place, and also helps to seal the joint.

Cheers,

Richard

Are you over tightening the bolts on the cover warping it a little bit?? Just a thought.....

Going to try the grease trick ,"sirdabs"

Wayneg - Dont think I`m overtightening the bolts....just nipping them up hand tight going from opposite bolt to opposite bolt so to speak...like tightening a car wheel

The O ring just didnt seem to want to sit in the recess all the way around...always had one bit coming out... inwards...if you know what I mean

Thanks for the help

Regards

N

Nick The "O" ring stretches with time ( ie: engine getting hot then cooling down) - always best to fit a new one - use grease or similar to hold in place-if you are stuck and don't have one, you can always cut a tiny bit out of the old "O" ring to make it fit then replace it with the small gap at the top - use silicone to seal the gap - reason is the oil will only drip from the botom

- reason is the oil will only drip from the botom

Unless you ride like...a friends brother (not me, honest). The top ends up at the bottom and would leak just the same. Glad I don't ride like that!

Cheers,

Richard

Had a good days riding yesterday and it didnt leak.But I had a tube of silicone sealant ready if it did

I had to use the old "O" ring and cut a piece out to get it to fit ,but the grease trick works a treat.

The new "O" ring was damaged beyond repair after being "pinched" between the cover and housing,so I couldnt use it

Thanks for the tips everyone

Regards

N

BTW - Is "10- 40 wt" transmission oil thicker or thinner than 20-30 wt

BTW - Is "10- 40 wt" transmission oil thicker or thinner than 20-30 wt

Supposedly, 10/40 would be thinner when cold and thicker when hot.

But I've dumped more than my share of hot multi-grade oil, and it comes out faster than when it goes in.

Thanks Charlie

I always thought all oil was thinner after heating it up,no matter what wt it was.

Regards

N

He means that the 10-40 is thinner than the 20-30 when cold (the 10 and 20 parts) and thicker than the 20-30 when hot (the 40 and 30 parts). An oil rated 10-40 is supposed to be 10 wt cold and 40 wt hot. The 20-30 oil is supposed to be 20 wt cold and 30 wt hot.

I'm so confused now my head hurts.

Cheers,

Richard

I'll probably just confuse things worse but here goes.

SAE rating with a W is rated at a cold temp ( I think 0 F), oil without that is rated at (I think ) 104 F

All oil thins out when it heats up. That drop is called viscosity index. Whatever the base oil does is by definition VI=100. Oil that doesn't thin out as fast with heat has VI greater than 100. 120 to 160 is typical of multigrade oils. Some really good fluids, or ATF, have VI approaching 190 but thats rare.

An oil that tests out cold to 10W and has no particular VI improver additives would be a 'straight weight', technically a 10W-10 I suppose.

Oil that has VI improvers still thin down with heat, just not as fast as the straight grade.

So something that tests at 10W, but doesn't thin out as fast with heat may be thicker than base 10 oil at high temp, and would meet the 40 grade. It would then be a 10w-40.

The advantage is obvious: better flow at low temps, still good viscosity strength at high temp.

The down side is that VI improvers are not real stable. They tend to shear down with time. So the oil that started life as a 10W-40, after lots of time in the engine, may end up as a 10W-30, or 20, or 10W-10.

My conclusions:

1. Clutches shear the oil badly, so the VI additives may not last long.

2. How an oil works after 10 or 50 hours may not be how it works when you first put it in.

3. Oil and filters are cheap, change it often.

k

The agent that raises the viscosity can be as simple as ground-up rubber that expands and makes the oil more viscous, and it definitely shears and loses its effectiveness with use.

As kevin says, clutches and transmissions are particularly harsh where shear is an issue.

I was going to try ATF after still suffering with drag .

I cleaned the plates and fibres up ..changed the oil numerous times.

but I have been told ,from the colour of the oil coming out (dark brown and a little bit of a smell to it) that I need a new clutch....anyone confirm this ???

Regards

N

what is atf is it thin or thick, does thick oil make the clutch drag or thin oil, is it more than 80w