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How Do You Guys Work On These Bikes.

Featured Replies

Neo, the airbox will come out without removing the rear shocker but you will have to remove the silencer and mid-box. I cant say I have tried really hard to get the air box out without removing them as its just simpler and quicker to take the exhaust off.

If the shock bolt is seized buy some good quality anti seize/penetrating oil spray and leave it soak over night, I usually find that if a bolt is stuck, tightening it very slightly to start with tends to break its hold then it will undo alot easier. Make sure you use a good fit allen key to get the bolt out and it helps if you attach a long spanner to the allen key to help with leverage, they are tight at the best of times.

Edited by Betarev3

  • Author

Thanks for the advice Betarev3 and Slapshot 3

I'm going to lay the bike on it's side and let the peneratrating oil soke right in, for a day or so....Then it's impact driver and big hammer time!!!

But I can't say I'm too impress with having to do this on a bike that's just 5 years old.

Best of balance.

Neo

Thanks for the advice Betarev3 and Slapshot 3

I'm going to lay the bike on it's side and let the peneratrating oil soke right in, for a day or so....Then it's impact driver and big hammer time!!!

But I can't say I'm too impress with having to do this on a bike that's just 5 years old.

Best of balance.

Neo

Problem is where the bolt terminates Neo, it's just in line to pick up every bit of crap the back tyre can throw at it, no matter how hard you protect it. I've filled the gap with silicon, see if that make a difference

Neo

I'm not sure if this is any help, but the head of that REV3 bottom shock bolt is a precision fit into its hole so you have to get some penetrating lube to the side of the head as well as to the thread. The REV3 I worked on was three years old and that bolt had never been removed before. After a few days soaking it with Silkopen it came free without resorting to heating it.

David

Thanks for the advice Betarev3 and Slapshot 3

I'm going to lay the bike on it's side and let the peneratrating oil soke right in, for a day or so....Then it's impact driver and big hammer time!!!

But I can't say I'm too impress with having to do this on a bike that's just 5 years old.

Best of balance.

Neo

In this case its not the bike its the owner. If the bike was looked after as it should be this problem would not occurr. My guess is the swing arm and suspension has never ever been looked at in the past 5 years. At the very least the swing arm and suspension should have been removed, inspected, and lubed once a year (as I believe is recommended in the manual). Had this been done with any regularity the lower bolt would not be siezed.

the bolt isn't seized because of dirt, it's a thing called oxidation, just like on a car or even a tractor trailer wheel, steel and aluminum don't mix! it causes a reaction and corodes itself fast, and it is a pain, don't snap the head off the bolt, work it slowly a bit at a time with a good penetrating oil, and get it moving, it will come loose but it is a pain especially because of the location, but be patient it will give, when you put it back together use a lot of never sieze on the bolt and that will help the next time you need to remove the thing.................................john

just my 2 cents, but I see dissimilar metal corrosion all the time in the automotive repair industry, not to mention many parts on my yamaha.

Patience is a virtue. good luck :wall:

if you oput two similar metals together they will bind up, two dissimilar ones is a new one on me.

Rusting is oxidation, or loss of electrons. If two metals are in contact with each other, and one is more readily oxidised than the other then rather than both metals rusting at a steady rate, one will not rust at all, and the other will rust a lot. It depends on the two metals in question as to which one will rust.

They use big blocks of magnesium to stop corrosion of underground steel pipes, they just have to replace the magnesium every now and then, which is a lot cheaper than replacing a whole pipe, especially since the magnesium only has to be wired up to the pipe, not actually underground.

Bob

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