July 20, 200719 yr I'm sure theres an easy solution. Took the chain off for first time to replace the rubber chain tensioner. I put it back on the bike - but i cant get the chain ends to line up so i can put the pins back in. No matter how hard i pull - im 3 mm off. There's got to be a method to this.. anyone? One day i'll look back at these posts and think "what a numpty" Jza
July 20, 200719 yr checked the obvious ? rolled the snail cams back so its not making the wheel further back (if got these) make sure the wheel is as far forwards as possible (little kick to the back wheel usually gets it to go ) Other than that cant think why the chain would go back together because over time they stretch so should get easier really.
July 20, 200719 yr Author checked the obvious ? rolled the snail cams back so its not making the wheel further back (if got these) make sure the wheel is as far forwards as possible (little kick to the back wheel usually gets it to go ) Other than that cant think why the chain would go back together because over time they stretch so should get easier really. Thats the next fun thing.... I dont have a 23mm spanner in my toolbox that i need to losen the nut so i can roll the snail cams I went to two shops this AM and "we dont sell 23mm spanners just 22mm and 24mm".... im riding tomorrow am (that was the plan) so was hoping for a miracle that wouldnt need me to losen rear axle
July 20, 200719 yr The reason that your chain seems shorter than before is that your new tensioner pad is thicker than the old worn one, effectively pushing up more on the chain and taking up more of the slack and that is where your 3mm has gone. If you can't get a ring spanner the correct size why not purchase a 23mm socket, available most tool stockists, Halfords if you are in the UK, you will need a ratchet or breaker bar to fit if you don't already have one. Other than that, if it makes the difference between riding tomorrow or not, you could use a monkey/pipe wrench or molegrips but this is a last resort/bodgers favourite. Buy the correct tools, you will use them many times in the future, buy the best you can afford. Edited July 20, 200719 yr by jezza
July 20, 200719 yr Assuming you still can't loosen the nut to move the wheel forward, put the split link back in the chain with the chain OFF the sprocket. Then pull the top of the chain backwards until it is taught and place it onto the top teeth on the rear sprocket and then as far round the sprocket teeth as you can stretch it. When you've got as far as you can go wheel the bike backwards which will run rest of the chain onto the rest of the sprocket. The chain hasn't changed length so it will go back on without moving the wheel as the force of the bike moving backwards will stretch the chain enough to pull it onto the sprocket. The new tensioner pad won't affect this.
July 20, 200719 yr Author The nut on my 4RT is 24mm AF. You also need a 22mm U-spanner for the shaft.Carl Hey guys, Your all right - its a 24mm spanner LOL i measured it with a ruler it looked like 23mm LOL I've managed to get the rear axle out, whack the plate back on (what a bugger of a job) the chain, fit it and re-set the snails to the correct tension. I didnt even swear once either Without you all i'd have failed.... i can now go out tomorrow and enjoy the floods Thanks to everyone for their help Jza
July 20, 200719 yr It usually just a case of holding the tensioner away from the chain `till you get the split link back in
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