Update:

Engine is all back together , thanks for the help.

Well done that man..seriously.......how long do you have to wait for a proper test ride?

It may be too late for this case, but remember that unless stated otherwise ALL PRINTED TORQUE VALUES are for dry threads.

And, since so no fastener should ever go together dry, remember to DECREASE the torque setting by 18% ~ 25% depending on the lubricant used.

It may be too late for this case, but remember that unless stated otherwise ALL PRINTED TORQUE VALUES are for dry threads.

And, since so no fastener should ever go together dry, remember to DECREASE the torque setting by 18% ~ 25% depending on the lubricant used.

This is true, and I believe the listed specs should make proper allowence and be safe. Had Zipper stripped his crankshaft threads, I would have been the first to use your quote and tell him he was stupid for not knowing that!

I plan to do a bit more verification on the factory settings, specially on the main case through bolts, soon as I can find my damn inch pounder with the dial on it! You know, break a few loose, measure, then put them back the same, measure!

I can tell you from witness what happens when you misread and apply 10 ft/lb instead of 10nm(88 in/lb) to those head nuts!

The 6mm studs simply twist in two! Ant the nut does not care!

Was not me, thankfully!

It may be too late for this case, but remember that unless stated otherwise ALL PRINTED TORQUE VALUES are for dry threads.

And, since so no fastener should ever go together dry, remember to DECREASE the torque setting by 18% ~ 25% depending on the lubricant used.

Does threadlock count as a lube?

HAM2 Posted Yesterday, 05:03 AM

Well done that man..seriously.......how long do you have to wait for a proper test ride?

Thanks HAM2

I need to finish a few hundred other things before I can test ride.

Frame mods for skid plate mounts

new thermo

Lube dog bones and swing arm bearings

Lube head stock bearings

Make front brake work

Flip rear tire around

Clean carb

Rebuild clutch master cylinder

Yada Yada Yada

You get the idea.

Right now the frame is completely stripped. With commitments with family and work I think it will be about a month and a half yet before done. But when it is that 2000 is gonna kick A**. (probably my A** but that is what it is for, right?)

I see you've got ''flip rear tyre around'' on your list.

Personally I would rather do the main bearings all over again than mess about with a tubeless tyre.

Flipping the rear is easy,

I can break the bead with home made bead breaker, just goes pop.

Remove tire with tire irons, flip and reinstall with tire irons.

Now here comes the special handy dandy technique--------------------------------------

Place tire in rear of truck. Very important, if this step is skipped then nothing will go right.

Drive said truck and tire to local bike shop. Have really nice guy pop the bead on for me, pay a couple bucks for his time and air pressure. Place tire in rear of truck and drive home.

See all very easy.

Yes, any threadlocker counts as a lubricant. A rule of thumb with Loc-Tite is to decrease the printed torque spec by 18%.

Yikes..I've just put mine on at 60ft/lbs..time to re-check everything

Wahey, Cheers JMcK,

Just done the math as the Americans would say and 18% off 73.2ft/lbs is......60ft/lbs... so:- no need to strip and re-check.

For those that may be interested the Sherco is back together and running sweet. Rode it in the drive way yesturday for a few minutes and seems to have much more power definately better throttle response. A big thank you to Biff for coming over and powder coating my exhaust and shift lever. Man does it looks sweet now. Now it is time to break it in. The only drawback to this is now I have lost most of my excuses as to why I ride like crap.

Only thing left to do is flatten skid plate, sharpen foot pegs and make up my "highway pegs"

The list,

REPLACED:

rings

crank bearings and seals

reeds

wrist pin and bearing

all gaskets in engine

clutch hubs and pressure plate (my oops broke the old one was bad day)

throttle cable

throttle tube assembly

grips

front brake line

in line thermostat with housing

front and rear wheel bearings (Thanks to Biff for these, added extra grease also)

rebuilt clutch master cylinder

CLEANED (AND GREASED IF CALLED FOR):

carb

all suspension bearings (dog bones, swing arm, etc...)

Rear brake lever bearing

Front brake caliper (tear down and clean, jury still out if this is working right)

Steering head bearings

air filter

OTHER

beefed up skid plate mounts.

Flip rear tire around

Just for those that might have been interested in the project and why it took so long. I think that is everything.

Edited February 24, 200818 yr by ZIPPY

Looking good Zippy!

But i still think we should have done some blue flames and a possible skull.....

Oh well i guess the gasgas muffler will be just that much cooler..... Now more so since i have that restriction gone. hahahahahah DOH!

--Biff

biffsgasgas Posted Yesterday, 09:50 PM

But i still think we should have done some blue flames and a possible skull.....

HMMM..... you have seen how I ride so you know that we will have to redo the powder coat again on the muffler next year or the year after. I agree a skull would be nice!!! Right in the middle of the muffler.

OR all WGASA members should get the WGASA Penguin on their mufflers!!!

That Gasser Muffler does look great, and with that pesky restriction gone I bet it runs sweet.

HMMM..... you have seen how I ride so you know that we will have to redo the powder coat again on the muffler next year or the year after. I agree a skull would be nice!!! Right in the middle of the muffler.

OR all WGASA members should get the WGASA Penguin on their mufflers!!!

That Gasser Muffler does look great, and with that pesky restriction gone I bet it runs sweet.

Have you ever considered BLUE or SILVER or even Rainbow stickers as compared to Skulls and GG red?

copemech Posted Yesterday, 10:47 PM

QUOTE (ZIPPY @ Feb 26 2008, 10:00 AM)

HMMM..... you have seen how I ride so you know that we will have to redo the powder coat again on the muffler next year or the year after. I agree a skull would be nice!!! Right in the middle of the muffler.

OR all WGASA members should get the WGASA Penguin on their mufflers!!!

That Gasser Muffler does look great, and with that pesky restriction gone I bet it runs sweet.

Have you ever considered BLUE or SILVER or even Rainbow stickers as compared to Skulls and GG red?

Well with mine being a Sherco of course it would be a blue skull, would match the blue bars, and with me being married it would match my blue.........