Hi all.

As someone just really starting to get their hands dirty on the mechanical side, I was wondering how many of you bother using a torque wrench to put stuff back together?

Do you see it as important or is 'tight' enough. Failing that do you work to standard torque settings when working on any bike? If so, setting do you work to?

Why? I dont have access to any type of manual, so if I need torque settings I'm stuck. Is that a problem?

Cheers

Mark

Your 'tight' and my 'tight' will be a million miles out - to the detriment of many who have stripped vital threads.

As you are just starting out, I'd always advise the use of a torque wrench (cylinder head - brakes - axle - steering etc) and if you don't have manufacturer specific information, look at some other manufacturer for thier torque settings for the same parts which won't be too far out for other bikes.

I live by my torque wrench! If I don't use it inevitably I will shear or strip bolts. In fact even when I do use it I still manage to! (But that's only cos I was using the wrong settings!)

Even if you don't have a manual you can get an idea of the max torque of a particular thickness of bolt from lots of sites online.

In my opinion it just saves the worry. Once its done you know its right. And I hate taking something off only to find the previous owner has done something up far too tight and you end up rounding it off!!

Spend the money and purchase a good torque wrench and then take care of it; try to check it's calibration at least once annually.

Also, remember that unless otherwise noted, all printed torque values are for dry threads, and since no fasteners on your motorcycle should ever be assembled dry always reduce the max printed torque setting by 18 ~ 25% depending on the lubricant used. This includes thread locking agents as well.

Hi all.

As someone just really starting to get their hands dirty on the mechanical side, I was wondering how many of you bother using a torque wrench to put stuff back together?

Do you see it as important or is 'tight' enough. Failing that do you work to standard torque settings when working on any bike? If so, setting do you work to?

Why? I dont have access to any type of manual, so if I need torque settings I'm stuck. Is that a problem?

Cheers

Mark

Mark,

I don't know if this will help much, but it will give you an idea of the torque values for various parts. It for a Pro and in Nm's rather than Ft Lb's (it wouldn't upload a spreadsheet I did with both values, but conversion tables are on the Net). I'd use a torque wrench, at least until you get a good idea of what various torque values feel like and you'll be surprized at how little and how much torque is required based on the fasteners.

Jon

If you break the head off or pull the threads out of the hole then it was too tight.

So stop just before that happens.

Yep I are a smart

If you break the head off or pull the threads out of the hole then it was too tight.

So stop just before that happens.

Yep I are a smart

Geeez, Zip,

That starts to make sense to me. I think I need a glass of wine....

Jon

Thanks for the input Guys. Think i'll take the torqued up route then, I would like to avoid the stripped theads and snapped heads if possible. The bike's pretty old too, so it's possible that the fixings may not be in the best of condition anyway.

Big thanks to Jon for that chart. I was looking at the prospect at looking all over the net for the different settings but you've saved me a job there. Your sheet covers the settings for all of the jobs that I'm starting with, brakes, coolant and gear oil (servicing jobs first) so even better.

Mark

Yep Torque wrench was a wonderful thing to have when i rebuilt my sherco motor.

Use it far more than I thought I would for normal maintenance things.

Thanks for the input Guys. Think i'll take the torqued up route then, I would like to avoid the stripped theads and snapped heads if possible. The bike's pretty old too, so it's possible that the fixings may not be in the best of condition anyway.

Big thanks to Jon for that chart. I was looking at the prospect at looking all over the net for the different settings but you've saved me a job there. Your sheet covers the settings for all of the jobs that I'm starting with, brakes, coolant and gear oil (servicing jobs first) so even better.

Mark

Glad to help.

A good tip for old Allen capscrews, which are common on bikes, is to use a T-handle Allen and tap the top of the handle with a small hammer to help "shock" any corrosion loose before backing them out. Be sure to use a little anti-seize on them upon re-assembly.

Cheers.

Jon