Hi I bought a TXT 250 Pro 2005 on Saturday and the clutch does seem to be working right. With the clutch pulled fully in the bike will still pull against me when in gear and will stall.

It had recently had ned cluch plates put in and need bedding in could this be the reason? We have bled the cluch but is still happens.

Any suggestions

thanks Alex

when you start up the bike try and hold the rear brake when you put it in gear. my bike will strain like that too but usually not after i have broken the plates apart. i find that this method will NOT work if you have already put it in to gear and i have found it works best if done from a cold start. you shouldnt have any problem until it has sat a day or so. i find that i only have to do it once a ride/event/day.

hope this helps!

edit: i have a similar problem though where the clutch adjustment is fully used and the brake method does not seem to work. is you problem this bad as well?

Edited January 12, 200917 yr by redneck

Thanks for your suggestions i will try it out and will go out on the bike on saturday to bedd the plates in.

regards Alex

i hope it works and i hope you have a good ride saturday!

i had this problem just recently with my 2001 280txt gasser. im not sure if its the same with your bike but on mine when i had the clutch out there are two push rod bars that go through the gear box into the clutch slave cylinder. one of these bars looks like a valve out of a cylinder head of a car. well anyway in between these two bars should be a 5mm steel ball bearing and i didnt know this at the time i rebuilt the clutch and i had obviously lost it when i removed the pushrod bars and i had the same problem as you, as soon as i replaced the 5mm ball bearing between those pushrod bars my clutch was magically fixed and i havnt had a problem with it since..... hope this helps

Try ty-wrapping your clutch lever to the grip overnight, forces the air to the top of the reservoir and gives a much better brake feel, mine goes off every few months and this brings it back.

If that does not work reverse bleed it.

I am convinced most of the problems with the Gasser clutch are air related, mine was awful when I bought it bet after a little fettling it

Hi I bought a TXT 250 Pro 2005 on Saturday and the clutch does seem to be working right. With the clutch pulled fully in the bike will still pull against me when in gear and will stall.

It had recently had ned cluch plates put in and need bedding in could this be the reason? We have bled the cluch but is still happens.

Any suggestions

thanks Alex

Alex,

In my experience, the fibers do not usually need bedding in and should work fairly well at the start. Providing the clutch pack was measured (the finger height seems to be a more accurate measurement as it compensates for compression of the pack as installed) and is within the appropriate range, you should be o.k. there.

Next, I'd check that there is a little clearance where the lever adjustment screw meets the plunger that goes through the rubber boot on the master cylinder and that the piston is returning back fully to it's stop at the circlip under the boot. If the boot is damaged in any way, consider using a rebuild kit for the M/C as any grit ingested into the M.C usually causes damage to the o-ring and piston seal. A worn o-ring on the piston shaft will allow air (and grit) to be ingested into the bore and a worn piston seal will usually not start to seal until the piston has traveled part way down the bore (and pressure is built up to expand the piston cup and compensate for the reduced, from wear, diameter of the piston sealing lip) which will reduce the effective travel.

Just about any hydraulic system on a bike that is properly maintained and does not have worn or damaged parts will not magically ingest air. If it does, there's a problem with one of the components, such as a loose banjo fitting, a worn o-ring in the M/C, or a low level of fluid in the M/C reservoir etc.

If the servo cylinder was removed from the sidecover post when the clutch was installed there may be an air bubble inside it. There is a "step" where the post ends and the servo cylinder is kinda like a pocket where air can reside. Sometimes laying the bike down on the left side and working the clutch lever will allow the air trapped in the servo cylinder to work it's way up the hole in the post and then it can be bled from the fitting on top of the sidecover. If the servo cylinder is taken off the post during service, it's a good idea to fill it with fluid before installing it on the post and then hold the sidecover "upside down", with the cylinder facing down and push on it a few times to force the fluid (and any air) up into the system. I also like to turn the bars to the right when bleeding the clutch as this places the M/C at the highest point in the system and levels out the loop in the hose after it leaves the M/C, where an air bubble can hide.

Jon