airfruit Posted February 16, 2009 Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 My beta decided to act up just when the snow cleared up. Very upsetting day indeed. There is a constant click click click noise that comes from somewhere around the engine. The clicking gets faster as I rev it up. I have no idea and will open up the bike once I have the time. I was too afraid to ride it thinking that I might do some permanent damage. What should I be looking for? could one of the clutch spring has gone? kick start? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ksv Posted February 16, 2009 Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 Have you checked the split link? If it wears too much it can cause a clicking every time the chain revolves, so would explain why it clicks more when you rev it. Obviously if it is clicking when stationary it isn't that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted February 16, 2009 Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 (edited) I hate to say it but that could be a compromised gear tooth. There have been reports on here of gearbox failures. Does it make the sound when running in neutral? Clutch basket and hub, primary gearshaft spinning/secondary shaft not spinning Does it make the sound when stopped with the bike in gear and the clutch pulled in? Clutch basket spinning/ clutch hub, primary shaft not spinning Does it make the sound when rolling, clutch out? Clutch basket, primary shaft, secondary shaft, drive chain spinning First do the clutch in/in-gear test. If it still makes the noise when the bike isn't moving in-gear then it isn't in the transmission and you've eliminated everything after the clutch basket. If it still makes the noise do the in-neutral clutch released not moving test. This will eliminate the final drive train and point squarely at the transmission. One of the problems with a constant mesh transmission is the gears are always engaged even though they are not driving the shafts so you can't just shift through the gears and hear a gear noise go away. Drain the gearbox oil and make sure there are no pieces of metal on the drain plug magnet. Pull the side cover and inspect the primary side drive gears and the kick start idler gear. Check the inside of the primary case for any scrape marks. Occassionally a clutch screw will back out and scrape on the cover. If you havent identified the cause by this point a center case teardown may be in order. If it is a bad gear the risk for further damage is fairly high. Let us know what you find. Edited February 16, 2009 by Dan Williams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airfruit Posted February 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 (edited) sounds like a lot of fun... not. I won't be able to tear open the bike until Thursday grrrr... I did both of the test you mentioned Dan and the noise doesn't go away. The only time it went away was when I lean the bike to one side, stood it back up and ran it. The noise comes back after a bit of vibration. I hope my gear didn't go... because when I was trying to figure out where the sounds was coming from, it got a lot louder so I quickly shut the bike off. It's weird tho, when I got home, washed my bike and ran it to dry things out, the noise went away. I rode it for a few secs and then it came back when it's idling but not when its a bit rev'd up. Then it got louder and freaked me out!!! Man, I've only had this bike for half a year!!! and the last 2 month it didn't see action because of the snow here!!! Edited February 16, 2009 by AirFruit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted February 16, 2009 Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 (edited) Sweet!! If the noise didn't go away with the bike running, stopped, in-gear, with the clutch pulled it's not transmission. That essentially keeps the gear shafts from spinning so it sounds like someting much less serious. Check that all your engine bolts are tight. Make sure nothing is loose on the frame and that the carb is not touching the exhaust system. On the older Rev3s it wasn't uncommon for the exhaust to rattle on the frame. I stuffed a piece of silicone pot holder under the middle chamber on my '05. You could have a very small leak at the exhaust header gasket. The practical upshot is as long as the noise didn't go away with the above test worst case is pulling off the primary side cover and ignition cover and looking for something rubbing or broken and chasing around the frame looking for something loose. The bit about washing the bike could be metal to metal rubbing that got lubed by the wash water and so stopped making noise. A few strategic squirts of WD-40 at frame junctions can track that down. Usual culprit is aluminum to aluminum like where the skid plate attaches. Beta frames squeak when they're relatively new. After a while you just accept it and ignore it. Edited February 16, 2009 by Dan Williams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzralphy Posted February 16, 2009 Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 You could have a spark jumping to earth somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airfruit Posted February 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 Well, I found out what happened... my water pump gear for some reason popped out to the side which means my water pump was no longer turning. I don't know why but beta's water pump gear has enough room on the shaft to move til its off the pin that locks it in place (I hope people know what I'm talking about). I put a spacer on the shaft to keep the gear from coming off the pin. It seems to be working great now, but I don't know if that spacer will wear the other parts funny. One other big issue though. I discovered my water pump casing is corroding like crazy. I am using the coolant that the dealer said to use. When I say water pump casing I mean, the big casing, not the cover... the casing that covers the clutch too. Hopefully I get that warrantied Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted February 22, 2009 Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 Just for the sake of research (and because I have an '08) what coolant did the dealer recommend and did you dilute it with water and was it de-ionized water or tap water or spring water? Yes I know spring water is an odd choice but there have been times when that was all that was in the truck so I have used it before. I'm thinking it might be worth pulling my cover to take a look and possibly seeing how difficult it would be to plate the magnesium with some less chemically active metal like gold. Just the surfaces that contact the water not the outside. I provide enough comedy to my buddies with my riding. I might have lucked out with mine as it had an electrical fault when I first got it so I had to drain the coolant to get at the wiring with only a few hours on the bike and refilled it with engine ice. It'll be interesting to see if that protected my case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinkbike Posted February 23, 2009 Report Share Posted February 23, 2009 (edited) Following this thread... Regarding the coolant, my old 06 I noticed that the casing had corroded and was repaired. So what to do on the new bikes? Is it recommended to drain out the new (factory) coolant and replace with aftermarket or just keep to my usual schedule and replace twice yearly? I thought that from 2007 onwards that the casings where not supposed to corrode so easily. Can anybody shed any light? Sorry to hijack your thread AirFruit. Edited February 23, 2009 by pinkbike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahaty250xox Posted February 23, 2009 Report Share Posted February 23, 2009 My 07 has slightly corroded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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