March 7, 200917 yr Author 4282 is real late, would have an ally head steady i bet.maybe in the last 100 ever made? Yes it has the Alloy Head steady with the extra mounting point on the top tube. A huge improvement over those early Snapalot steadies! Well it also now has nowhere to mount footrests!! Just welding in some captive M8 nuts to mount brackets onto. The existing hole (Tooling hole probably) is quite convenient for this mod. Needs an extra hole slightly further back to make it usable. Wayne....
March 7, 200917 yr Author Mod completed both sides, at least it's reversible. I'll tidy up/blend the remnants of the Factory weld (Top of hanger) when I can find the dremel! Wayne... Edited March 7, 200917 yr by wayne_weedon
March 7, 200917 yr good idea. looking at that side further up the tube we weld a bracket which lines up with the middle box weld a nut on there and do away with the bracket on the rear engine bolt which does the same job but a pain to get at.
March 10, 200917 yr Author Not quite got it to the painters yet! Too much "proper" work getting in the way this week. But I just spent a few minutes modelling up a footrest hanger. Pic attached. It should work ok. Wayne...
March 14, 200917 yr *** = 282 Hallo everyone, I'm a new recruit but an old biker. Probably common to many I used to trial a T250 when I was 18. That was 1972. I now have what I beleive to be very original matching chassis and engine numbers 340. The number is 1994774B. I bought here a couple of years ago and she won't run at the moment but I am sure I'll get her going with a quick clean of the Bing carb and a fettle of the points. My reason for posting is to say hallo and to learn from somone who's clearly few days work ahead of me. I intend to get her going, fit electronic ignition, fit mikuni carb, get some new shocks and then have some fun. So can somone give me a quick one two on; ignition timing, 1) degrees or distance before TDC, what should it be and 2) there seems to be quite a choice of shocks available, which are generaly regarded as the best? Many thanks and apologies for the thread hijack. Paul Cundy Bultaco 340 1983 JCB 3CX 1984 Range Rover P38 1995 XKR 2004 Noble M12 racecar 2001
March 14, 200917 yr Hallo everyone, I'm a new recruit but an old biker. Probably common to many I used to trial a T250 when I was 18. That was 1972. I now have what I beleive to be very original matching chassis and engine numbers 340. The number is 1994774B. I bought here a couple of years ago and she won't run at the moment but I am sure I'll get her going with a quick clean of the Bing carb and a fettle of the points. My reason for posting is to say hallo and to learn from somone who's clearly few days work ahead of me. I intend to get her going, fit electronic ignition, fit mikuni carb, get some new shocks and then have some fun. So can somone give me a quick one two on; ignition timing, 1) degrees or distance before TDC, what should it be and 2) there seems to be quite a choice of shocks available, which are generaly regarded as the best? Many thanks and apologies for the thread hijack. Paul Cundy Bultaco 340 1983 JCB 3CX 1984 Range Rover P38 1995 XKR 2004 Noble M12 racecar 2001 Don't get the electronic ignition if you can't set the timing. I start at 2.8mmbtdc.
March 14, 200917 yr Author 2.8mm btdc is what I have always used, and be accurate with it. I have never found I really needed electronic ignition on my Sherpa's, but I know some will swear by it. Well setup Femsa (or Motoplat in the case of the 340's) Points ignition just works. Don't recall ever needing any more than 3 kicks to get any of my Sherpa's going. I think the last problem I had with points ignition on my 199A was after it standing a few years and the pivot point had corroded. Points opened and stayed open. Quick clean up and she was away again. Lets see some pictures of your 340! There does seem to be more cropping up just recently. Another on Evilbay at the moment. Though the Triumph engined one in my Sacrilege thread made only a fraction of it's un-butchered worth. On Shocks, well that would be a personal preference and no doubt everyone has a favourite.. I have bought some new Rockshocks for mine, not tried them yet, but I admit I have never spent that sort of money on shocks before! Never had deep enough pockets for real quality shocks in my more active riding days. Wayne..... Edited March 14, 200917 yr by wayne_weedon
March 15, 200917 yr 2.8mm btdc is what I have always used, and be accurate with it.I have never found I really needed electronic ignition on my Sherpa's, but I know some will swear by it. Well setup Femsa (or Motoplat in the case of the 340's) Points ignition just works. Don't recall ever needing any more than 3 kicks to get any of my Sherpa's going. I think the last problem I had with points ignition on my 199A was after it standing a few years and the pivot point had corroded. Points opened and stayed open. Quick clean up and she was away again. Lets see some pictures of your 340! There does seem to be more cropping up just recently. Another on Evilbay at the moment. Though the Triumph engined one in my Sacrilege thread made only a fraction of it's un-butchered worth. On Shocks, well that would be a personal preference and no doubt everyone has a favourite.. I have bought some new Rockshocks for mine, not tried them yet, but I admit I have never spent that sort of money on shocks before! Never had deep enough pockets for real quality shocks in my more active riding days. Wayne..... Some 340's have femsa some motoplat, for obvious reasons. Points are ok agreed, do help if you know what to do if the thing doesn't start first thing. Its good to try a bit more have gone to 2.5 and 3.00 aswell. Ally falcons on mine. Edited March 15, 200917 yr by Nigel Dabster
March 15, 200917 yr Author Actually finished preparing the frame for paint today. Now I wish I'd taken a marker pen and marked up the little areas the blaster missed and made them redo those areas when I went to collect the frame! Seemed to take ages with the nitromors even in those little missed areas. But it's done now and the frame is ready for paint tomorrow. Wayne....
March 16, 200917 yr Author I'm frameless at the moment. In other words I managed to get it to the powder coaters. Here's hoping for a good job! <sulk> Not seen it yet but a couple of weld areas bled out some oil or something in the oven! I think the painter will be trying to remedy it tomorrow. Wayne.... Edited March 18, 200917 yr by wayne_weedon
March 19, 200917 yr Author It's back. I didn't bother making them redo it as the little blown areas are hardly noticable. Next time I'll have my frames zinc plated before powder coating as this will help reduce these problems. Wayne....
March 19, 200917 yr Next time I'll have my frames zinc plated before powder coating Would be a pretty thick buildup on threads, and holes, would it not? Always wonder about chiping, or rusting, in the places where the layers have to be removed, for reassembly.
March 19, 200917 yr Author Normal bright zinc is a c.10 micron coating. Nothing at all to be concerned about. I'm not talking about hot dipped galvanising. Wayne....
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