have checked the 2005 threads on the above . my 2008 bike is no different. can you tell me if the 315 master cylinder is still the way to go? i assume my bike is fitted with a standard m/c as it is a mirror of the brake cylinder. its driving me nut's in tight turns with reverse camber as its almost impossible to apply power. just too on and off. many thanks in advance.

have checked the 2005 threads on the above . my 2008 bike is no different. can you tell me if the 315 master cylinder is still the way to go? i assume my bike is fitted with a standard m/c as it is a mirror of the brake cylinder. its driving me nut's in tight turns with reverse camber as its almost impossible to apply power. just too on and off. many thanks in advance.

yo say you have an o8?..thats amazing, my 05 was like that...I thoght the problem would have been solved by now

how can such an expensive bike have such a bad clutch?.....I did everything, mitani plates [helped alot]..315 cluch reservoir...and you MUST use that expensive oil that is recommended, its works the best !!!!!

yo say you have an o8?..thats amazing, my 05 was like that...I thoght the problem would have been solved by now

how can such an expensive bike have such a bad clutch?.....I did everything, mitani plates [helped alot]..315 cluch reservoir...and you MUST use that expensive oil that is recommended, its works the best !!!!!

yep 2008 and the expensive oil. i cant belive i'm considering changing stuff just to pull away smoothly. no clutch drag and no probs starting in gear . will consider changing the front sproket if i realy have to. what did you think of the 315 master cylinder?

yep 2008 and the expensive oil. i cant belive i'm considering changing stuff just to pull away smoothly. no clutch drag and no probs starting in gear . will consider changing the front sproket if i realy have to. what did you think of the 315 master cylinder?

master cylinder didn't make much difference ..smaller ront sprocket helps a bit

best thibg I've heard was this guy whi took a hammer and whats the word...little pointy metal thingy ....and put a bunch of dents in the metal plate so it looks like a golf ball ...said it worked great!!...the little dents retail oil..keeping plate oily .......shouldn;t have to go to so much trouble fora ten thousand dollar machine .

I got me a sherco ...the clutch is a breeeeze..and I can get it into neutral

The 2008 4rt has a much better clutch than the 2005.

Don't buy a 315 master cylinder.

Have you ever had any oil other than Elf in it? It's no use using other oil then going back to Elf.

Can't see how changing the front sprocket will make your clutch smoother, you'll just be erratic a little slower.

Re adjust the clutch at the lever and inspect your clutch hose as you operate the clutch, these can be seen to visibly expand.

My 2005 came with 315 master cyl and 06 plates but I changed a mates to a 315 M/c and also 06 plates made a lot of diference (atf oil). The 08 bike should have the better plates so just the M/C to change. This alters the ratio of master cyl to slave cyl movement hence giving the improvement.

The higher tickover of the 4rt can compound the clutch issue especially with the high std gearing. I like the higer gearing so have left mine. You need to try and ride the bike different from a 2 stroke so use of the clutch should be minimal - only for tight turns and stopping etc.

I found that it is better to let the clutch fully engage then bring on the power and ride on the throttle, not slip the clutch with lots revs as you would on a 2 stroke. Seems to grip much better that way using the torque of the engine.

The 2008 4rt has a much better clutch than the 2005.

Don't buy a 315 master cylinder.

Have you ever had any oil other than Elf in it? It's no use using other oil then going back to Elf.

Can't see how changing the front sprocket will make your clutch smoother, you'll just be erratic a little slower.

Re adjust the clutch at the lever and inspect your clutch hose as you operate the clutch, these can be seen to visibly expand.

i did not think it would be an oil issue as i have no clutch drag or problems starting in gear. only considering the front sproket as a last resort for easier pick up with 1 tooth less. i have already re ajusted the clutch . will have a look at the hose though. cheers

My 2005 came with 315 master cyl and 06 plates but I changed a mates to a 315 M/c and also 06 plates made a lot of diference (atf oil). The 08 bike should have the better plates so just the M/C to change. This alters the ratio of master cyl to slave cyl movement hence giving the improvement.

The higher tickover of the 4rt can compound the clutch issue especially with the high std gearing. I like the higer gearing so have left mine. You need to try and ride the bike different from a 2 stroke so use of the clutch should be minimal - only for tight turns and stopping etc.

I found that it is better to let the clutch fully engage then bring on the power and ride on the throttle, not slip the clutch with lots revs as you would on a 2 stroke. Seems to grip much better that way using the torque of the engine.

i get what your saying regarding technique jimmy. i have been keeping clutch out as much as possible and using a lot of back brake with good effect. but its when the clutch just has to be used ie tight turn reverse camber from a stand still. it realy should be easier. thats the whole point of a clutch, to engage the power smoothly. my mate has won a few things in yesteryear and he agrees the clutch just bites to sharply. i am no expert but it appears to me that the hole diameter on the standard master cylinder is oversize and the 1 from the 315 is smaller do you know if this is the case? if so then its a no brainer (unless your work for honda) waiting for sandifords opening again to get there thoughts . will keep you posted. cheers.

I just bought an unmodified 06 model and am learning to ride it. Mine came with a small clutch master cylinder and a large brake master cylinder. Are all 4Rts that way?

I assume the 315 clutch master cylinder must be large like the brake side. It seems to me that it would then have a larger piston which would make the clutch action even quicker. can someone explain the differences to me?

Also what about the Jitsie steel plates that are advertised to make the clutch more progressive, has anyone tried them?

Edited May 12, 200917 yr by motovita

hey,

i used the jitsie steel plates in my 2005 and they work ok, i used atf oil

but its just a honda disease same on a tlr

regards bob

hey,

i used the jitsie steel plates in my 2005 and they work ok, i used atf oil

but its just a honda disease same on a tlr

regards bob

I don't agree, I have had both 05 and currently 06 4RT's, the clutch is nothing like the TLR. The TLR as standard was really grabby and noisy and difficult to ride.

I have found the 4RT as standard very sensitive but does not grab, the std clutch action is very quick and took some getting used to after the (modified) TLR but I

stuck with it and after a few weeks found the std 4RT totally controllable and I like the instant engagement when you want it. With mine provided you are sensitive with the clutch finger it will slip just as much as I require without grabbing or noise.

After reading stories of other peoples experience with a variety of oils I have used the recommended Elf product exclusively.

Agree with Jimmyl give the standard set up a go for a couple of weeks before you consider changing anything.

Good luck

Jokerr if you are still having issues???

A fix i tried a long time ago was moving the clutch lever inwards on the handle bar in effect gearing down the travel, When you get used to the clutch it works fine.

I don't agree, I have had both 05 and currently 06 4RT's, the clutch is nothing like the TLR. The TLR as standard was really grabby and noisy and difficult to ride.

I have found the 4RT as standard very sensitive but does not grab, the std clutch action is very quick and took some getting used to after the (modified) TLR but I

stuck with it and after a few weeks found the std 4RT totally controllable and I like the instant engagement when you want it. With mine provided you are sensitive with the clutch finger it will slip just as much as I require without grabbing or noise.

After reading stories of other peoples experience with a variety of oils I have used the recommended Elf product exclusively.

Agree with Jimmyl give the standard set up a go for a couple of weeks before you consider changing anything.

Good luck

Hey,

could be my clutch was an exeption but it made the same noise as a tlr's when hard used,

it didn't grab so bad like my tlr but is is not good at all standard.

i still ride my honda tlr and i can live with the bad clutch, but on a modern bike i expect a good working clutch.

otherwise the 4rt is a well bild bike and fun to ride

regards bob

On 5/12/2009 at 3:59 AM, masso said:

master cylinder didn't make much difference ..smaller ront sprocket helps a bit

best thibg I've heard was this guy whi took a hammer and whats the word...little pointy metal thingy ....and put a bunch of dents in the metal plate so it looks like a golf ball ...said it worked great!!...the little dents retail oil..keeping plate oily .......shouldn;t have to go to so much trouble fora ten thousand dollar machine .

I got me a sherco ...the clutch is a breeeeze..and I can get it into neutral

Do not take a hammer to the clutch plates....... Jeez. You can buy a new dimpled set for like £30. 

Mine has the dimpled clutch plates, the correct ELF HTX transmission oil and new seals In the AJP master cylinder. 315 master cylinder makes no difference. The bore/diamiter of the plunger is the same as the 4rt master cylinder so you are gaining nothing. No increase in pressure etc. I can always get it into neutral with ease while it's running. My clutch is quite switchy but I've just  accepted I have to get use to it. Can't think of anything else to cure it. The engine breaking doesn't help matters either.