EH OP fellow gassers

my txt 280 has started to inch forward when clutch is in full . Can anybody tell me how to adjust clutch ?

Cheers Dave

EH OP fellow gassers

my txt 280 has started to inch forward when clutch is in full . Can anybody tell me how to adjust clutch ?

Cheers Dave

Dave,

First of all, check the adjustment at the lever. There is an adjustment screw that contacts the plunger that goes through the rubber boot on the master cylinder. Back the screw out so that there is a little slack there and the piston retracts back to the circlip (you'll have to look under the boot to do this). If that does not fix it, let us know if you have a newer Pro or the older TXT model (the Pro was actually a "TXXI" model, but they changed it to "TXT" about then-03'- and it can get a little confusing). The actual clutches are quite different between the TXT and Pro TXT.

The lever screw adjustment is the same for both models (also for the brake M/C and rear brake M/C).

Jon

Alright Davet, I had this problem with mine, tried filing clutch basket to stop plates sticking in grooves and changing fluid and bleeding, all to varying degrees of success. In the end, upon close inspection of the discs I found that the fibre on some of them was breaking down and peeling off, so the only solution was a new clutch pack which has solved the problem fully now. So I think you may be experiencing similar problems, hope you get sorted as it is annoying and makes you tired holding bike back all the time.

I had a similar problem. whacked a new clutch pack in and all sorted. The fibre actually started coming away from the discs. This was caused by water leaking into the cas via the water pump seal though. could be worth checking to see if you have milky oil.

Andy.

Hi Jon

sorry for the delay. the screw on the lever needs to screwed inwards ? to push the piston . thats if i understand.

cheers Dave

Surely that is DRAG not SLIP!

Hi Jon

sorry for the delay. the screw on the lever needs to screwed inwards ? to push the piston . thats if i understand.

cheers Dave

Actually, it needs to be backed out until the plunger that goes through the boot comes fully out. If you lightly touch the lever, you should feel a little slack before the adjustment screw puts pressure on the plunger. The piston has to fully retract out/back so the hole to the reservoir is uncovered and the system can ingest more fluid to build pressure. With the hand lever let out, the adjustment screw should not be putting ANY pressure on the plunger that is in the center of the rubber boot.

I know it looks like screwing IN the adjustment screw you would get more throw/travel to the clutch servo cylinder, but the opposite is true.

Jon

Thanks Jon adjusted screw and it works fine......cheers.

Dave

Surely that is DRAG not SLIP!

one didnt know DRAG or SLIP.......sorry for my ignorance ever so sorry ! GET A LIFE

one didnt know DRAG or SLIP.......sorry for my ignorance ever so sorry ! GET A LIFE

Now Now davet ... montman is right in what hes trying to say, hes just hasn't said it...

Drag on a clutch is when the bike wants to creep forward when the lever is pulled in.

Slip is when the clutch enganges when lever is not pulled in and engine is under load...

Thanks for that Mikee, it explains ( montman )

but it does not excuse his attitude.....some of us dont know everything,thats why we are gratefull for your and others knowledge.

Thanks All

cheers Dave

Have a drink on me !!!!!!

A real DRAG is when the bike stops running, in the furthest section from the car park!

Then you will likely allow the tounge to SLIP a few times before you get it back!