Hello all

Bought a 2007 gas gas txt 250 a few weeks ago. going to change the oil this week, do i just undo the bolt underneath the bash plate where there is a hole in the bash plate?

an when refilling the fresh oil does that go in the hole where there is a alan key bolt with a bleeding nipple next to it, just above the gear lever?

thanks in advance

empty the oil via the sump bolt at the bottom of the engine like you said and then when refilling ,put 750 ml into said allen key bolt.this is on the brake lever side not the gear lever.tomsk

if your bike is a pro, assume it is being 07, you only need 400/450ml in the gearbox, get the bike upright and fill until you are 2/3rds up the sight glass, and yes they are the right bolts, might want to try tilting the bike all ways to get as much of the old oil out as poss

Takes 450ml,not 750 of ATF which you can get from a car spares shop

sorry your right,i got mixed up with my 2000 txt280 which took 750ml.

i'd do as ive seen reccomended on here before. drain into a jug so you know how much has come out, just incase you only manage to drain out 400ml, if this happens over and over again, you would be sticking an extra 50ml in each time. when draining mine, i tend to leave it open and go for a coffee or lunch, then come back tip it over and leave it lent against something then off for another coffee. seems to get everything out of it. (plus i get to drink lots of coffee!)

Andy.

thanks alot, ill get it sorted tonight i think

400ml works better (fully drained) - ATF-F or GM autotrak Transfer case fluid (blue stuff) - just make sure you change it on a regular basis to keep it fresh.

how often im i best changing it at? i was thinking about every 3 rides?

how often im i best changing it at? i was thinking about every 3 rides?

That sounds about right. I usually recommend 5-10 hours of use or after a wet Trial (the Pro is less prone to sucking water into the tranny than most engines due to the breather placement, however). The key is change it often as the Pro tranny fluid has to lube several other things a "normal" engine does not, like the crank main bearings and a roller in the transmission splitshaft. Under "normal" conditions, Trials bike transmissions face an unusual amount of shock and stress, which is counter-intuitive as you would think that the low speeds we run them at would be easy on them. The extensive clutch use also adds to the transmission temperature which breaks down the fluid quicker.

The Type-F seems to work well in the 07' (with the thinner Belville spring) and another trick is to use a new Allen wrench or an old one with about 8mm cut off the end so that the flutes are "sharp" and will not strip out the aluminum drain plug.

Jon